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tradrenn


Dec 30, 2006, 1:49 PM
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Big Walls without aid.
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Is there any ?

What would be the easiest BW without aid ?

Thanks

P.S. Please post the name and rating.


nedsurf


Dec 30, 2006, 1:57 PM
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Re: [tradrenn] Big Walls without aid. [In reply to]
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dunno what a big wall is for you. I have my eye on Cannon cliff and laurel knob and I think they are pretty big walls.
Moby Grape 5.8, 8 pitches.
Laurel knob has some moderate stuff.
I want to get on some longer climbs this summer hopefully a couple with required bivy. I was looking at the supertaco books and it seems the yosemite stuff has climbs with moderate pitches mixed with aid (for my level)
I'll free climb what I can and french free or aid what hangs me up.


(This post was edited by nedsurf on Dec 30, 2006, 2:13 PM)


ihategrigris


Dec 30, 2006, 2:07 PM
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Re: [tradrenn] Big Walls without aid. [In reply to]
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tradrenn wrote:
Is there any ?

What would be the easiest BW without aid ?

Thanks

P.S. Please post the name and rating.

Why not just get into aid? Lots and lots and lots of aid to be had that multiday :). Saw your sig by the way, i'm planning to leave my job in December 2007 and hit the road until September starting in EPC (big wall sport I guess). Maybe we should talk about joining forces (a polish/canadian dirtbag team if you will).


tradrenn


Dec 30, 2006, 2:11 PM
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Re: [nedsurf] Big Walls without aid. [In reply to]
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Something more then 10 pitches


tradrenn


Dec 30, 2006, 2:19 PM
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Brzmi niezle, wysle Ci PMa.


stymingersfink


Dec 30, 2006, 9:19 PM
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Re: [tradrenn] Big Walls without aid. [In reply to]
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tradrenn wrote:
Is there any ?

What would be the easiest BW without aid ?

Thanks

P.S. Please post the name and rating.

um.. free zodiac. 5.13(something) IIRCWink









(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 1:22 AM)


ihategrigris


Dec 30, 2006, 10:36 PM
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Re: [tradrenn] Big Walls without aid. [In reply to]
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Heres a few examples of the top of my head:

Wapiti Mainline (5.11a or 5.10b A0 - run out sport) - 13 Pitchs, 500m - Wapiti Valley, Vancouver Island BC.

Sysyphus Summits (5.10d sport) 20+ pitches 500m - Ha Ling Peak, Canmore AB.

NE Ridge of Ha Ling (5.6 trad) 11 pitches, 475 m - Ha Ling Peak, Canmore AB.

Ultra-Brewers (5.9 trad) 20+ pitches 700+ m - Castle Mountain, Banff AB.

Directisima (5.8+ trad) 11 pitches 475 m - Yamnuska, Exshaw AB.

The Ultimate Linkup (5.9+ trad) 23 pitches ~600m - The Chief, Squamish BC.

As you can plainly see, living in Alberta rocks.


charlet_poser


Dec 31, 2006, 12:23 AM
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Or you can come down here to WA state:
Infinite Bliss- 5.10b 23 pitches, BOLTED!!
Booyah.


vegastradguy


Dec 31, 2006, 7:13 AM
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tradrenn wrote:
Something more then 10 pitches

Any grade IV in Red Rock.


caughtinside


Dec 31, 2006, 5:59 PM
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renn,

the places you are looking for are called 'yosemite' and 'red rocks.'

Come on out!


michaelmcguinn


Dec 31, 2006, 6:13 PM
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Red Rocks
Yosemite
Potrero Chico

Lots of free climbing for anyone that wants to get a route that is 1000 feet of more. And Moderate free climbing too.

MM


tallnik


Jan 1, 2007, 6:11 AM
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I'll second Potrero, although Wojtek, you won't like very much! It's clipping bolts! Leave the gear at home.

600+ routes though, lot's of rock.

Nik


tradrenn


Jan 1, 2007, 7:54 AM
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Re: [tallnik] Big Walls without aid. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
the places you are looking for are called 'yosemite' and 'red rocks.' Come on out!

I will see you in 08. See sig. When will we see you at the east coast ? (Gunks)

tallnik wrote:
I'll second Potrero, although Wojtek, you won't like very much! It's clipping bolts! Leave the gear at home.600+ routes though, lot's of rock.

I'm planning a trip to EPC in Feb. I'm a bit different, I like SC this days.


thelockdude


Jan 1, 2007, 8:54 AM
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I'll be watching this thread cause I'm going to do my first big wall in the fall of 07. I posted my own thread in the "Aid" forum, but route suggestions that don't require aid would be cool too.
For me these are essential elements: easy climbing (5.8 or 9?), optional bivy (one night), east coast.


areyoumydude


Jan 1, 2007, 8:03 PM
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I've always been a fan of The Black. Scienic Cruise 10+, Comedy Relief 10a, Journey Home 10a, to name a few.


tradrenn


Jan 2, 2007, 2:04 PM
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areyoumydude wrote:
I've always been a fan of The Black. Scienic Cruise 10+, Comedy Relief 10a, Journey Home 10a, to name a few.

All of them in Cali ?


tallnik


Jan 2, 2007, 2:11 PM
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Big wall, east coast...

Moby grape 5.8, Cannon Cliff, NH.

Aid
Mordor wall, 5 pitches, A2, great optional bivy.

Nik


boymeetsrock


Jan 2, 2007, 2:16 PM
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"the Black"is actually the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, in Collorado.

It scares me very much, but is reported to have some greeat climbing...


Partner gunksgoer


Jan 2, 2007, 3:06 PM
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Maybe check out fairview dome, the regular route is 5.9 with most of it in the 5.6-5.8 range. 13 pitches. Grade IV, possible bivy part way up.


potreroed


Jan 2, 2007, 3:36 PM
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El Potrero Chico, 'nuff said. Climbing big walls with a dozen draws and a single rope is a beautiful thing!!


flamer


Jan 3, 2007, 3:23 PM
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tradrenn wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
I've always been a fan of The Black. Scienic Cruise 10+, Comedy Relief 10a, Journey Home 10a, to name a few.

All of them in Cali ?

The black is a sweet place...someone(bobd??) descibed it best as "the blue collar yosemite". Some BIG stuff there that is free at a "moderate" grade. But keep in mind it's a very different experience.

There are a few other routes/ areas in colorado that fit what you are looking for.....some stuff in the south platte(big rock candy mountain)....a few routes in RMNP.

Seems to me that most routes considered "Big walls"
would require an average party to bivy?

josh


guanoboy


Jan 3, 2007, 3:30 PM
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DNB on middle cathedral - Yo, 10b 17p
reg NW on half dome requires only 2 bolt ladders 17-25p
Steck salathe, yo - 10b 15?p
Epinephrine, vegas - 5.9, 17?p
vmc direct direct on cannon, nh 10b for each of 8p

there are a lot out there


tradrenn


Jan 3, 2007, 6:20 PM
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Good staff people, keep em coming.

Thank you.


crotch


Jan 3, 2007, 6:28 PM
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What's a Big Wall?


flamer


Jan 4, 2007, 8:45 AM
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guanoboy wrote:
reg NW on half dome requires only 2 bolt ladders 17-25p

Only IF you're climbing 5.12+ trad.....

josh

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