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EDK for self belay?
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Partner angry

Dec 31, 2006, 10:05 AM
Post #1 of 2 (542 views)

Registered: Jul 21, 2003
Posts: 8405

EDK for self belay?
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Here how it works.

-Anchor one end to the ground.
-Tie in to the other end.
-Tie an overhand bite in between the two and closer to your harness.
-As you go up, loosen the edk and let some rope into the system to allow you to move.
-Probably every 10 feet have a backup as the primary EDK isn't all that tight.

This should allow you to tie directly into your harness eliminating the whole steel biner arguement

Edit: I wrote this as a troll, but fuck if it doesn't seem quasi-reasonable. At least in a pinch. I guess my only concern would be a loose-ish edk holding a whipper.

Does an EDK roll at 800lbs or reduce the rope strength to 800? If it rolls but the rope is still strong, this is easily fixed with backup knots.

Pass the bong.

(This post was edited by angry on Dec 31, 2006, 10:09 AM)


Dec 31, 2006, 12:26 PM
Post #2 of 2 (506 views)

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371

Re: [angry] EDK for self belay? [In reply to]
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A well tied and set overhand will roll (depending on size of rope) around 1400lbs. Can't remember what percent of strength an overhand reduces the rope (35%?).

What happens to that enormous loop you've created as you slowly shorten it up, sounds like a clusterf#cked knot waiting to happen.

Just tie into your ground anchor and clove into the line on a biner off the flaked rope, adjust clove as needed for more length. Tie off backup knots as needed.
I realize this way doesn't solve the biner triloading issue your worried about, but I'd rather do it this way then end up with a knot in the feed line 20 ft off the deck.

Had you not clarified this as not an intentional troll, I'd a given it a T4Smile

(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Dec 31, 2006, 12:29 PM)

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