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ihategrigris
Dec 31, 2006, 6:56 PM
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Alright, I want to start aid climbing on the rock around here (compact rockies limestone) and need to figure out what I need for pins. I was thinking of starting with about 5 small knifeblades, 5 medium knifeblads, a mix of lost arrows (what sizes are most useful?) and a few assorted hooks. Is there anything else I should be looking at? Also, please help me pick good sizes.
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moose_droppings
Dec 31, 2006, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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A hammer and a funk device.
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summerprophet
Dec 31, 2006, 9:30 PM
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Seeing as you are in the rockies, I would avoid the stubbies, until you get some more experience.... or Granite. I haven't honestly set any pins in the Rockies, but have climbed plenty of routes around Canmore, and have a bit of a feel for the rock. bugs, Blades, Arrows, and baby angles would all be good, and maybe one or two long dongs, especially if you are climbing in the winter.
As far as hooks, the standard seems to be a talon, a standard, and a cliffhanger. I can't imagine bathooks see much use in the rockies.
(This post was edited by summerprophet on Dec 31, 2006, 9:32 PM)
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tattooed_climber
Jan 1, 2007, 10:18 PM
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last time i found myself aiding in the rockies, i was doing alot of KB stacks
oh ya, afew #3 and #2 Peakers (didn't place the #1 at all)
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pindrvr75
Jan 2, 2007, 12:57 AM
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May I suggest a handfull of small thin micro-pins such as made by metolious and at least three screamers. One can usually find some very thin cracks on even the bleakest sections that these small pins will fit. Though not very confidence inspiring, they reduce runout or at least slow most sliding falls. A good selection of knifeblades from #1 to #5 will also greatly expand your options. The L.A.'s IMHO offer the best protection due to their beefy construction, but can be a devil to remove after placing them solidly for maximum security. You'll find what suits your particular style best after you place and remove a few. Good luck!
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moof
Jan 2, 2007, 2:20 AM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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Go to ebay. Find a few pin piles from someone else who loaded up when they first for into aid, then never used the stuff. I've added to the shame by further not placing mine (mostly brought a few in case fixed ones pull).
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tallnik
Jan 2, 2007, 10:06 AM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2004
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for hooks I really like the talons and cam hooks are great too, but not sure how useful cam hooks would be in the rockies...
Cheers,
Nik
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stymingersfink
Jan 3, 2007, 7:52 PM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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don't forget the beaks and rurps... for thin bottoming cracks rurps can't be beat, and many times beaks may be hand-placed to a solid fit in deep thin cracks where upward motion is the prime consideration. If you are planning on it potentially holding a whipper I'd suggest you tap it home and use a scream-aid on them.
As far as heavy-metal, I would have to say purchase what fits in your area, but keep in mind it's more comforting to stand above a tied-off pin that wouldn't go in all the way than a shortie that was driven to the hilt and might still be a tad loose. What do you tend to see more of on established routes? ever consider stacking a pin+nut combo?
Someone brought up hooks... they're not pins, but I would recommend doubles in the following as a bare minimum for maximum versatility: cliffhanger, talon, leeper med. cam hook.
Later maybe add a sky-hook and a large leeper cam hook, maybe a leeper bat hook if you find you can't make the talon work in such placements.
The cam-hooks make a great tool for rapidly advancing upward over ground where small-medium stoppers, micro-cams or TCU's would probably fit, but are unnecessary to leave behind as pro.
My theory is to back-clean any easy to place/clean gear which is not necessary to keep you from hitting a feature in the event of a fall, or needed for cleaning/jugging purposes. It means you'll approach the anchor with more gear choices available to you for each intermediate move, and the anchor itself.
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skinner
Jan 23, 2007, 2:33 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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Rurps in Alberta limestone... hrmmm good luck with that! You're definitely doing the right thing stocking up on KB's though. Make sure to get some stubby KB's because you'll find yourself trying to force them into hairline fractures as an only option, and KB's are a poor pin to tie off. You'll be suprised at what they will hold, I have a whole collection of deformed KB's that have held some pretty serious falls.
Here's my two recommendations.
I always carry a supply of stubi soft-iron ring pitons on both pure rock and alpine routes I only carry two styles, the straight universal where the eye it set at a 45 degree angle so it can be used in a vertical or horizontal crack, and the shallow angle ring piton. These are leave behind pitons I use to set up anchors. Being soft-iron, they deform.. or form to the crack and are a bitch to get out and usually not re-usable anyway. The beauty of them is that you can rap directly off of the ring w/o having to leave any other gear behind.
Watch Ebay, check the local gear-swap shop and grab all of the Russian titanium pitons you can get your hands on. They are generally more expensive but last longer and the amount of weight you can drop off of your rack is more then worth it.
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