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How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after)
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Poll: How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after)
Easier 11 / 39%
10c - 10d 9 / 32%
11a - 11b 2 / 7%
11c - 11d 3 / 11%
Harder 3 / 11%
28 total votes
 

greatgarbanzo


Dec 31, 2006, 5:31 PM
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How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after)
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Partner angry


Dec 31, 2006, 5:35 PM
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Re: [greatgarbanzo] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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It's impossible to say without climbing it.

It sounds like about 4-5 moves across the roof on more secure holds than than a jug. If it's truly 5.3 after the roof, it means there's lots of features to make pulling the lip (usually the crux) easy.


basilisk


Jan 2, 2007, 7:06 AM
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Re: [angry] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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the yosemite decimal system uses the hardest move as the basis for the rating. therefore, we must ask: how hard would you say the crux is? that's the rating

i'd also like to note that i'm not a fan of the YDS in that aspect, but i suppose we may as well be consistent


dingus


Jan 2, 2007, 7:14 AM
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Re: [basilisk] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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5.7+.

DMT


Partner tisar


Jan 2, 2007, 7:27 AM
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Re: [dingus] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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5.3 A0 for me Tongue

- Daniel


reno


Jan 2, 2007, 9:38 AM
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Re: [tisar] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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5.18c R/X


dbrayack


Jan 2, 2007, 10:00 AM
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Re: [greatgarbanzo] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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9+....that always fits the bill.


Adk


Jan 2, 2007, 12:53 PM
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Re: [basilisk] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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basilisk wrote:
the yosemite decimal system uses the hardest move as the basis for the rating. therefore, we must ask: how hard would you say the crux is? that's the rating

I'd also like to note that i'm not a fan of the YDS in that aspect, but i suppose we may as well be consistent

That is exactly why I like it. If I look at a route in a book and it says 5.9, I know I can send up it. But if it says 5.11 that is only on one pitch, the crux on the last pitch of seven, I know to keep my rear on the ground and instead, pick a route made for men who are weak like me.Laugh


tradrenn


Jan 2, 2007, 4:19 PM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2005
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Re: [greatgarbanzo] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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Could we see some pics ?


stymingersfink


Jan 3, 2007, 12:12 PM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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Re: [dingus] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
5.7+.

DMT

Smile

old-skool... and tellin' no lies, just the way we like it!


worldonastrng


Jan 4, 2007, 9:22 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2005
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Re: [basilisk] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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basilisk wrote:
the yosemite decimal system uses the hardest move as the basis for the rating. therefore, we must ask: how hard would you say the crux is? that's the rating

According to whom? From what I've learned, everything using our beloved YSD is 101% subjective. I think its pretty far fetched to claim that it is standard to rate a climb by the hardest move. There are no YSD police coming around. It sure would be nice if there were though.


Adk


Jan 5, 2007, 9:02 AM
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Re: [worldonastrng] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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In reply to:

According to whom? From what I've learned, everything using our beloved YSD is 101% subjective. I think its pretty far fetched to claim that it is standard to rate a climb by the hardest move. There are no YSD police coming around. It sure would be nice if there were though.

The system originally considered only the technical difficulty of the hardest move on a route. For example a route of mainly 5.7 moves but with one 5.12a move would be graded 5.12a. A climb that consisted of 5.11b moves all along its route, would be 5.11b. Modern application of climbing grades, especially on climbs at the upper end of the scale, also consider how sustained or strenuous a climb is, in addition to the difficulty of the "single hardest move".
This is just for grading class and not grade or protection.
I think Wiki might help those out there that are unsure. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)#YDS_Grade


Partner camhead


Jan 5, 2007, 9:34 AM
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Re: [basilisk] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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basilisk wrote:
the yosemite decimal system uses the hardest move as the basis for the rating. therefore, we must ask: how hard would you say the crux is? that's the rating

hardest move? heh. that is, like, SOOOOOOO 1979.


Partner brent_e


Jan 5, 2007, 10:07 AM
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Re: [worldonastrng] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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if you were in the rockies it would be 5.9 A2


worldonastrng


Jan 5, 2007, 10:34 AM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2005
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Re: [greatgarbanzo] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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Using wikipedia to back up our credentials are we? I take someone's word here on RC.com before I take the word of wiki.


graniteboy


Jan 5, 2007, 12:19 PM
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Re: [basilisk] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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Schneider sez this: 5.10 is really only sustained 5.9, and 5.11 is really just sustained 5.10, and 5.12 is really just sustained 5.11, so if you can pull 5.9......

I know lots lots lots of climbs that are rated at a particular rating just because the moves are sustained, but if any one of those moves were to be put on a less sustained climb, the route would not get the rating of the more sustained route. If you can figger out what I just said, good, cause it looks clear as mud to me.


shimanilami


Jan 5, 2007, 12:34 PM
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Re: [greatgarbanzo] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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IMHO

Perfect hands on vertical = 5.8.

Add the roof = 5.9


Adk


Jan 5, 2007, 9:47 PM
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Re: [worldonastrng] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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worldonastrng wrote:
Using wikipedia to back up our credentials are we? I take someone's word here on RC.com before I take the word of wiki.

Ever think the answer came from here? At RC.com Wiki doesn't pull their answers out of their big dark hole. JK.
It really makes no difference what you want to think or for that matter what I think. That is how the grading system works.
I have to say, we all have climbed climbs that we thought were under or over classed. It's going to happen. One day you feel at your best and can't climb a ladder without falling, another day you are ready to die from the whiskey you drank the night before and you could climb a newly sheet rocked wall.

It's up to us to keep the standards and not corrupt the grading system. I'm sure the great climbers of the past would want us to do as they have tried to do.
Sorry if you felt offended with my first answer.
Climb on!!


Adk


Jan 5, 2007, 10:05 PM
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Re: [Adk] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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Neat little thread to read.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=986212;search_string=yosemite%20grading%20system;#986212


reno


Jan 6, 2007, 9:31 AM
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Re: [shimanilami] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
IMHO

Perfect hands on vertical = 5.8.

Add the roof = 5.9

Respectfully:

Who's hands?

I've got big ol' meathooks, with knuckles that are reminiscent of an under-evolved ape-creature. Some folks (hell, MOST folks) have smaller hands. What might be perfect hands to you could be a thin finger crack for me.

Subjective.... subjective, subjective, subjective.

"It Depends." (tm)

Also, a bit of a personal gripe: I do not buy into the concept that "sustained 5.10" is the same as 5.11, or anything of the sort.

Sure, a route with lots of, say, 5.9 moves is harder than a route with one 5.9 move, but saying a sustained 5.9 is the same as a 5.10 is like saying "I ran four consecutive miles all of them at a 5 minute/mile pace, so I'm a 4-minute mile runner."

Don't work that way.

Sustained 5.10 is sustained 5.10, not 5.11.


(This post was edited by reno on Jan 6, 2007, 11:45 AM)


scrapedape


Jan 6, 2007, 2:24 PM
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Re: [Adk] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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Adk wrote:
It's up to us to keep the standards and not corrupt the grading system. I'm sure the great climbers of the past would want us to do as they have tried to do.

Riiiiiight.... climbers would never corrupt the grading system used on an old-school classic...

reno wrote:
I've got big ol' meathooks, with knuckles that are reminiscent of an under-evolved ape-creature.

Why am I not surprised?


reno


Jan 6, 2007, 9:35 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
reno wrote:
I've got big ol' meathooks, with knuckles that are reminiscent of an under-evolved ape-creature.

Why am I not surprised?

Because we're first cousins? Wink


Partner philbox
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Jan 8, 2007, 5:16 PM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2002
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Re: [reno] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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reno wrote:
scrapedape wrote:
reno wrote:
I've got big ol' meathooks, with knuckles that are reminiscent of an under-evolved ape-creature.

Why am I not surprised?

Because we're first cousins? Wink

More like brother and sister. Laugh So who wants to wear the skirt today.


scrapedape


Jan 8, 2007, 5:35 PM
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Re: [philbox] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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philbox wrote:
reno wrote:
scrapedape wrote:
reno wrote:
I've got big ol' meathooks, with knuckles that are reminiscent of an under-evolved ape-creature.

Why am I not surprised?

Because we're first cousins? Wink

More like brother and sister. Laugh So who wants to wear the skirt today.
Well, you'd know, wouldn't you, Mom?
Now bring that sweet sweet ass over here.


Partner philbox
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Jan 10, 2007, 4:13 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] How would you rate a 4mts (13ft) perfect hands roof? (with 10meters of 5.3 climbing before and after) [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
philbox wrote:
reno wrote:
scrapedape wrote:
reno wrote:
I've got big ol' meathooks, with knuckles that are reminiscent of an under-evolved ape-creature.

Why am I not surprised?

Because we're first cousins? Wink

More like brother and sister. Laugh So who wants to wear the skirt today.
Well, you'd know, wouldn't you, Mom?
Now bring that sweet sweet ass over here.

If I've told you once I've told you a thousand times not to use that language boy. I brought you into this world and I can take you out too, now bend over and take your spanking like a man. Laugh


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