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dr_fil_good
Jan 1, 2007, 1:34 AM
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Registered: May 3, 2005
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G'day Peeps
I'm going to be exploring through the States from 10 January to 24 March and plan on getting heaps of climbing in. I am looking for populated climbing areas that will be in season and reasonably warm at this time (so probably in the south).
What's some hot recommendations for sport climbing (good routes up to 5.12a-b) and bouldering where it should be easy to find a partner between Jan and March?
I know my timing is bad, I'm on an around the world trip and have been climbing in the sun for too long so its time that the weather took a spin on me. I'm also into alpine and trad stuff but want to get more sport climbing in. Got no rope or draws left either, everything gets trashed when you climb for so long!!!
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naw
Jan 1, 2007, 2:28 AM
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That's a pretty broad question. What area are you looking to head to, there's good climbing all across the states this time of year. Jan - Mar is prime bouldering season across the country, Hueco would be the most popular bouldering spot probably from Jan-Feb. For routes, you can find stuff all over too. Red Rocks is definitely in season right now for sport climbing and bouldering, and tons of other spots around there also. Dunno, just get a general idea of which part of the country you want to visit and find some beta on the best spots there. Good luck.
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moss1956
Jan 1, 2007, 2:28 AM
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You have to get lucky with days this time of year. I have climbed every month of the year for two years... in Iowa. I went out Dec. 29 and the sun was shining and there were insects swarming on the rock. It was great.
To get a good chance of plentiful climbing days, you need to be south of here .
Places that have lots of fun sport climbing this time of year are California, Arizona, and Nevada.
Also, if bouldering isn't against your religion there are lots of places to climb in the south this time of year. Like HP40 in Alabama, Rocktown in Georgia, and Hueco Tanks in Texas.
Winter climbing tricks:
1. Put one of those chemical handwarmers in your chalkbag, and one in each of your approach shoes.
2. Dress in layers. I like capilene 3, fleece shirt, and a wind stopper fleece jacket with smartwool socks in my approach shoes. I have a beanie that fits under my helmet and some really warm gloves.
3. Mechanics gloves. Get them tight. They are special gloves that heavy equipment mechanics wear in cold weather. They are thin enough that you can be dextrous, and have textured grips. I got mine at Fleet and Home.
4. Get a late start, the heat of the day is about 3pm, the sunset is before 5 pm. If you are on the rock before 11 around here in the winter its painful.
5. Get through the metabolic response. The first climb your hands get numb. When you get down they burn, after that you will be fine, unless your partner takes too long on a climb, then you get to repeat the process.
6. I wear 43.5 climbing shoes in the summer, 44 in the winter. Having them be a little loose keeps my feet from getting too cold.
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kjohnnytarr
Jan 1, 2007, 4:11 AM
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Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas, is some great sport in the south. The bouldering is supposed to be good to, although I wouldn't know about that.
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andychasteen
Jan 1, 2007, 4:22 AM
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I second Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas if you are going to be halfway close. Cave Creek in Arkansas as well. I'd be more than happy to show you around; got plenty of gear to share as well.
PM me a couple weeks ahead of time and we'll do it.
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dr_fil_good
Jan 1, 2007, 10:39 PM
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andychasteen wrote: PM me a couple weeks ahead of time and we'll do it.
That sounds good, I'll check ya out when I get there.
Are there any generic all round guide books like for Europe (the Jingo Wobly Europe Sport Climbing)?
Ha ha, yeah, I'm kinda used to a touch of frost, I was mountaineering in the alps for one whole wintery month on this trip - I was hoping to relive the sunshine I experienced in Thailand, China, Vietnam, France, and Germany ... I think I'll have to wait a while to see the sun again :'( ho hum, climbing is fun
any more tips on goodah sport climbing? I'd love to get back on some limestone and sandstone :)
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sjm915
Jan 2, 2007, 12:01 AM
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If you make it to texas, hueco tanks has already been mentioned, but Riemer's Ranch and Enchanted Rock are both great, and the best city in texas to be in for climbing would be austin, tons of climbing within 10 min of austin, mostly all sport, but lots of hard walls.
If your looking at texas, austin would be south central texas, and the Climbing in austin is Barton Creek Greenbelt (119)
o ya and winters are great, i climbed yesterday and today it was sunny 70 degrees.
(This post was edited by sjm915 on Jan 2, 2007, 12:07 AM)
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feanor007
Jan 2, 2007, 1:14 AM
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Red River Gorge
you could stay for a month and climb nothing but classics in those grades. even if it does rain, it doesn't matter at the gorge. most of the routes stay bone dry even in the stoutest downpours. miguels doesn't open until march, but jan/feb provide some of the best climbing days of the year. sunny 40-50 degree afternoons and no crowds. it's been a super mild winter. besides, southerners are nicer. seriously.
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dr_fil_good
Jan 2, 2007, 5:31 AM
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Hells yeah, Red River Gorge, forgot that one! Should hit that up, nice steep climbing to find out how much BT I lost in the mountains 
As for Hueco Tanks, I really wanna hit that up but is there any form of public transport out that way? And what's it like in terms of not carrying your own bouldering mat? Is that a sin?
Are there large communities at major US climbing sites? Like in terms of tent city and a long term community set up?
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feanor007
Jan 2, 2007, 6:19 PM
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in march miguels comes back to life. sometimes rocktown (amazing) has a near tent on top of the mountain.
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feanor007
Jan 2, 2007, 6:21 PM
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oh yah, check redriverclimbing.com for any bata you need. they have the entire guidebook online, plus tons of other info.
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toohigh
Jan 7, 2007, 6:59 AM
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smith rock, smith rock, smith rock... have fun!
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ihategrigris
Jan 7, 2007, 8:07 AM
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Whatever you do don't come to Canada (our sport crags might get crowded after all). 
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jemco
Feb 1, 2007, 8:36 AM
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No one has mentioned bishop yet, which is odd given the OP's restrictions--no partners, no rope, etc. I have found the BLM pit campground in Bishop the perfect place to tag along with someone going into the Owen's river gorge. If not, there is always great bouldering all over the place. the camping scene is VERY scene-y so hooking up with people is really easy. Also, the greyhound bus goes to Bishop and it is easy to find a ride to the camping at Kava coffee house.
jemco
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medicus
Feb 2, 2007, 5:55 AM
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kjohnnytarr wrote: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas, is some great sport in the south. The bouldering is supposed to be good to, although I wouldn't know about that.
The bouldering is all right, but during daylight hours, I would climb where HCR truely shines on their bolted routes, and at night I would go boulder. A group of us all bouldered during the last day we were there, and it was still just okay. I would definitely prefer to bolt climb at HCR than boulder.
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