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What trad routes ?
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z_rock90


Dec 31, 2006, 9:50 PM
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What trad routes ?
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What are some graet multi-pitch climbs in yosemite in the 5.6-5.8 range?


miavzero


Dec 31, 2006, 10:48 PM
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Re: [z_rock90] What trad routes ? [In reply to]
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snake dike on half dome is a good outing.


thegreytradster


Jan 1, 2007, 2:16 PM
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Re: [miavzero] What trad routes ? [In reply to]
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The Harding route on Middle Cathedral is .7 with one short section of bolt ladder that can be done French free with a few long slings.


summerprophet


Jan 1, 2007, 2:39 PM
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Re: [z_rock90] What trad routes ? [In reply to]
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I would suggest the following;

Munginella 5.6, 3 pitches
Really fun route and a good introduction to Yosemite trad lines, long runners very handy

Braille Book 5.6?, about 5 pitches, 1 hour hike
The hike in is worth it, incredibly textured rock unlike anything else you will find in the valley. Offwidth pitch easier than it sounds.

Royal Arches 5.7, 14 pitches
Routefinding skills are certainly handy on this one, when in doubt, keep going right on the terraces as far as you possibly can , and keep going left above the terraces. Rappel rather than hike down. Two 60m ropes useful, One 60m required.

Snake Dike 5.7, 3-10 pitches(3+ hour hike)
Get up early for this one, couple of pitches of climbing, then hike up the slab to the top of half dome. six draws, a set of nuts and a few cams smaller than 1 " should do you.

After Seven 5.7, 4-6 pitches
Another good into to Yosemite Trad. do the first pitch of after seven, then join After Six and run up the cracks to the top. Many possibilities to bail out early on the left.

Bishops Terrace 5.8 2 pitches
This can be done as one long pitch if you watch out for rope drag, has a liitle bit of everything

Nutcracker 5.8, 5 pitches
Wonderful climb up obvious features mostly easy with typically one hard move per pitch. Purple or blue TCU useful to protect the crux mantle .

Be aware that there are going to be a lot of people on these routes as they are popular and easy. which can be a pain at times, but can be useful to follow up others if you don't know the route.


(This post was edited by summerprophet on Jan 1, 2007, 2:41 PM)


z_rock90


Jan 1, 2007, 5:35 PM
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thank you just what I needed.


salamanizer


Jan 2, 2007, 12:20 AM
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Re: [summerprophet] What trad routes ? [In reply to]
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summerprophet wrote:
Braille Book 5.6?, about 5 pitches.


Braille book is a sandbagged 5.8

miavzero wrote:
The Harding route on Middle Cathedral is .7


Harding route?
You mean the East Buttress?
If so, its 5.9 AO or sandbagged .10c. Definately not 5.7


miavzero


Jan 2, 2007, 9:25 PM
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salamanizer wrote:

miavzero wrote:
The Harding route on Middle Cathedral is .7

check your source


salamanizer


Jan 2, 2007, 10:23 PM
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Re: [miavzero] What trad routes ? [In reply to]
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miavzero wrote:
salamanizer wrote:

miavzero wrote:
The Harding route on Middle Cathedral is .7

check your source

There is no route on Middle Cathedral called "The Harding Route". All I can think of is that you mean the East Buttress of Middle which was first done by Warren and friends. If this is the route you are feferring to (which I've lead), then it is most definately 5.9 AO or 5.10C. I've checked my sources from the Reid book back through the red 64 Roper book and there is no mention of a Harding route on Middle. Please, check your sources. Or better yet, tell me about a route that's not in any guidebook.


stymingersfink


Jan 3, 2007, 12:16 PM
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Re: [z_rock90] What trad routes ? [In reply to]
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check out Arrowhead Arete 5.8 (6 pitches IIRC). This was the first multi-pitch I followed, on my third day of climbing... it was an experience i'll not soon forget.


dingus


Jan 3, 2007, 12:31 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] What trad routes ? [In reply to]
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summerprophet wrote:
Braille Book 5.6?, about 5 pitches, 1 hour hike
The hike in is worth it, incredibly textured rock unlike anything else you will find in the valley. Offwidth pitch easier than it sounds.

5.8 and some find it stiff for that. The pitch after the OW passing the broken pins.

Your list pretty much covers it. There aren't a lot of good climbs under 5.8 in the valley anyway.

DMT


dingus


Jan 3, 2007, 12:33 PM
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Re: [salamanizer] What trad routes ? [In reply to]
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salamanizer wrote:
miavzero wrote:
salamanizer wrote:

miavzero wrote:
The Harding route on Middle Cathedral is .7

check your source

There is no route on Middle Cathedral called "The Harding Route". All I can think of is that you mean the East Buttress of Middle which was first done by Warren and friends. If this is the route you are feferring to (which I've lead), then it is most definately 5.9 AO or 5.10C. I've checked my sources from the Reid book back through the red 64 Roper book and there is no mention of a Harding route on Middle. Please, check your sources. Or better yet, tell me about a route that's not in any guidebook.

Well he sure ain't talking about the North Face.

I read somewhere that the 5.9 move above the bolt ladder is changed, a key block fell out rendering the move harder. Don't know haven't been up there in a couple of years now.

DMT


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