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xtrmecat
Jan 1, 2007, 10:20 PM
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I am looking at vacation style solo up Half Dome in 08 but the wife cannot get the needed time off to help me haul the needed gear to the base of the climb. I cannot for the life of me figure out how one person can get a weeks worth of water, food, a wall rack, ledge, three 60 meter cords and other misc. safely to the base without getting some of my stuff stolen, feeding all my grub to Yogi, which would mean another trip to the valley floor to get a new haul bag, or killing my fat old wrinkled ass by trying to haul it all in one trip, not possible by me. I intend to go in Sept. so the springs will almost ceartainly not be flowing and will probably need to haul water from the creek on the cables ascent trail. I will probably use this route to haul it all in anyhow.
Anyone ever done this? Kind of like the fox, grain, and goose with one boat problem. Is the a "Sherpa" service to hire? How much Old English is an appropriate bribe/tip?
I know that I'm not the first to ask but a search here and another site yeilded nill.
Bob
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majid_sabet
Jan 1, 2007, 10:27 PM
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Bob
Go easy on solo , just get a partner for 08 and see how it goes then try to do solo in 10
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clintcummins
Jan 1, 2007, 10:54 PM
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Bob,
I've heard you can hire mules to get your gear to the shoulder. Then you could ferry it to the base. You will need help getting it back down as well. You could hide half of it and make 2 carries. To keep your food away from bears, you would either have to keep it with you at all times, or lead a [partial?] steep pitch and haul it up out of reach of bears.
But Majid's advice is good - better to have a partner. Alternatively, pick a wall with a shorter approach.
Also, it is not a good sign that you are even asking this question. If you are soloing a wall, you should be able to figure this out, as you may need to figure other things out up on the wall. Similarly, your desire for 3 ropes (instead of 2) and the idea of possibly having your wife help carry your gear to the base are not good signs, either. Soloing walls is really for experienced climbers, and you get that experience by doing walls with a partner first (as Majid suggested). I suppose wall partners may be hard to come by in Kalispell, but you should be able to find a partner, either at Camp 4 or in advance by asking around. Soloing is very convenient for some things like learning to lead aid, and for toproping after work. It's not so good for doing Half Dome unless you know exactly what you are doing.
(This post was edited by clintcummins on Jan 1, 2007, 10:58 PM)
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xtrmecat
Jan 1, 2007, 11:05 PM
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Thanks for the concern but almost all my climbing is solo and has been for some time now. Haven't been beyond a grade IV yet but this year is set aside for dialing in my systems to get all pitches at or under 2 hours. Was that an offer to schlepp a bag and help route finding?
Just interested in the Yosemite grade VI's as I got a taste of the parks granite in 05 and after snake dike just couldn't not come back. Has to be the next step in the natural progression. Soloed the snot out of Devils Tower and there just isn't any tall sandstone anywhere near here to get ready and try the next natural step, Zion or Moab.
Bob
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majid_sabet
Jan 1, 2007, 11:52 PM
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Bob
I am sure that this was not your first however, it is good to do it with a partner first then do the same thing solo. About a year ago, solo dome climber fell to base, people still do not know what went wrong . nasty weather and rock fall are seen on 1/2 Dome, Just be careful.
Regards
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xtrmecat
Jan 2, 2007, 12:17 AM
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I meant that a Zion climb would be shorter, less remote, and less long,grade V. I just do not have enough time to do a bunch of Yosemite shorter routes as it is not a small commitment for me to get there and climb. Two weeks off every time. The bugs are a good suggestion but the border is not as easy to cross as it used to be so the commitment to go there is the same as Yosemite, espeially with the remote issues. And solo is not just because there are no partners, it really is the way I prefer to travel. I love a Glacier Park continental divide winter summit solo vista more than anything else.
Yea, I followed the death slab soloist story, sad, but one of the things that help me to not make the same mistakes, like the decision to approach via the Muir trail rather than death slab.
Also just looking to take my time and enjoy it, rather than try to make it in a two day push, I'm too old to get in that kind of a hurry, even if I will need to be exposed for three times as long. It's not the destination for me but the journey.
Thanks for some very constructive food for thought, it will probably shape my decision later as the closer it gets to trip time, the smaller my sack becomes. Always seems this way anyhow.
Bob
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clintcummins
Jan 2, 2007, 12:28 AM
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Bob,
I see where you are coming from on preferring soloing, and on choosing VI over V, since you have to spend 2 weeks either way. Also, I didn't intend to imply that finding a solid partner is easy; it's probably the crux of doing a wall for most people.
Half Dome is fun but the work factor will be very high because of the long approach hike. I have not tried hauling on it, but hauling in the chimneys might be a pain.
For a first VI, you might be better off with an El Cap route like Zodiac, Tangerine Trip, or Lurking Fear. At least the approach hikes will be a lot shorter. It will still be epic getting your stuff down from the top.
One other piece of free advice is that you might want to shoot for May instead of September if you can swing time in May. September is the most crowded time on walls. May won't work for Half Dome, but it's great for El Cap.
(This post was edited by clintcummins on Jan 2, 2007, 12:33 AM)
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moose_droppings
Jan 2, 2007, 12:35 AM
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You already know a year and a half in advance that your wife won't have time off, that really sux, what a long row to hoe.
Have you tried over at supertaco
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum.html
You'll find some people that climb there regularly and would be in the know of some of the things you inquired about.
Good luck with your endeavor.
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xtrmecat
Jan 2, 2007, 1:35 AM
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Clint,
Thanks for hearing what I said. Lurking fear is on my list but not as high up. Maybe 09 or 10. I do have the freedom to go whenever though. May is pretty wet though(runoff). Do not mind a day or two in the rain but climbing a waterfall is a bit much for me. Seems the topography of Elcap is sloping toward all routes and I have no idea which ones are dry verses watercourses.
moosedroppings, yes I know a year and a half that the wife cannot go. New job and new employers do not like to give the same time off as I get and her vacation is for our priorities,not mine, and she goes everywhere with me but is not a climber and anything over pitch 2 or 5.7 just is not for her. She probably would not appreciate giveing up 2 years vacation to sit by the Awahnee and do the wait thing just cause I cannot figure out how to get my crap up where she has no interest to go.
Yea, I know about the taco, go there every day at least twice. It is much easier for me to die in a flame out here than to have them eat me alive for coming out of my lurking spot. "RC.noob" is a gentler form of pain.
No offense meant, but you all are easier to ask than 25 year veteran wall rats that would love to verbally pummel me for even asking such a demeaning noob question. Not afraid, just more interested in working out the sequence and getting it figured out, and I know someone out there knows the Mule company's phone #.
Again thanks.
Bob
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clintcummins
Jan 2, 2007, 1:50 AM
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Bob,
I really don't think May is wet (on El Cap) due to runoff. The snow is already long gone by then.
I did Lurking Fear in October, so I can't give you a direct May observation on it. But here are some routes I have done in the spring; never any problems with waterfalls/runoff:
March: Never Never Land
April: Horse Chute, Shield
May: Salathe', Nose
I suppose over on Tangerine Trip it could be a bit wet on the first 4 pitches in the spring, and on Zodiac, you might occasionally get drops blown onto you from Horsetail Falls.
(This post was edited by clintcummins on Jan 2, 2007, 1:53 AM)
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lambone
Jan 3, 2007, 9:14 PM
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Hey xtremecat,
Honestly I'd say that if you havent done a grade V yet, then you be signing up for a major effort to do Half Dome solo.
What route on Half Dome? I wouldn't recomend the regular route...low angle and lots of people who climb fast on it. Probly Tis-si-ack would be our best bet for something moderate. Make sure you know how to use a drill and replce bolts properly. There is a guy on Supertacop who soloed it, I forget who.
Basically, you have three choices. Hump all your crap up on your own. Probably 4-5 heavy trips. I would say this will take 3 days at least. Going up the Death Slabs is risky now...lots ove rockfall coming down it in the last couple of years, as seen by the huge rock scar directly above it. So that leaves the loooong trail.
Or rally the troops in C4 and pay a fair wage for sherpa service, good luck. Or Hire the mules over at the stables. Not sure what that entails, but likely a big pain in the ass.
If I were you I'd solo Washingtons Column first, stare at Half Dome for a while and make sure it is something you really want to do.
Or go do El Cap like Clint recomends. Any thing on the East Side makes for a great solo. I did Zodiac solo and it was the full experience.
Cheers.
(This post was edited by lambone on Jan 3, 2007, 9:22 PM)
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stymingersfink
Jan 5, 2007, 3:38 AM
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clintcummins wrote: Bob, I really don't think May is wet (on El Cap) due to runoff. The snow is already long gone by then. I did Lurking Fear in October, so I can't give you a direct May observation on it. But here are some routes I have done in the spring; never any problems with waterfalls/runoff: March: Never Never Land April: Horse Chute, Shield May: Salathe', Nose I suppose over on Tangerine Trip it could be a bit wet on the first 4 pitches in the spring, and on Zodiac, you might occasionally get drops blown onto you from Horsetail Falls.
was there in late april two years ago... horsetail was running fairly well, got a little spray occasionally while on the first 4 pitches of ZM. It froze the first night, the ice falling from the top as the sun hit it was quite memorable.
Decided I didn't have the gumption to lead every pitch in 6 days or less, with an partner who had never jugged at that. We ended up rapping off, then he lead the first two pitches of the Trip to figure out the game. It was fairly dry, though a few areas had some ooze to them. When the wind blew especially hard we got a few drops, but it was not consistent.
I would have to second (or is that third) the recommendation that you hit up El Cap for your first VI, especially since you will be soloing it. The 45 min approach has a lot to do with it, plus the SE side is steep enough that hauling is (relatively) easier and any falls taken will probably be clean (less chance of injury).
If you decide to take this approach, hike in the first time with all you need to lead/clean the first pitch, fix your line and set your haul. You will also need to find a place to hang your food out of reach of #46... now you can make shuttles of the remainder of your gear/food/water/portaledge/pooptube till you have assembled your entire kit. Pack your haulbags, clip 'em in, place a half-dozen golf-ball sized rocks in your pockets, then blast for your haul station.
The rocks might prove handy to scare #46 should s/he show up in the time it takes you to jug your lines and get the bags 15' off the ground .
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lambone
Jan 5, 2007, 5:58 PM
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FWIW- When I soloed Zodiac it took me 5 trips over the course of two days to carry all my stuff to the base, and two trips on the descent.
I think that is about average.
Don't carry loads in a haulbag, use a back pack with a frame.
(This post was edited by lambone on Jan 5, 2007, 6:00 PM)
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michaelmcguinn
Jan 5, 2007, 6:41 PM
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Post a note in Camp 4. Hire a Sherpa. $$$ to hike a bag to the base of Half Dome.
Go for it.
MM
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xtrmecat
Jan 7, 2007, 7:46 PM
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Thanks guys, there is a lot of food for thought. Still leaning toward Half Dome but time may need to change. How is june for the approach from the east edge then? I was there in the first week of june and there was still a lot of snow in shaded places. but I never ventured out around the north shoulder. Is this doable or is there too much snow over steep terrain? If so can it be technically traversed? Should be able to haul it all up in 2 trips with the springs running. What are the chances of getting my gear from trip 1 ripped off if it takes two days to return with the remainder of the stuff, probably the rack, ropes, and ledge. Is there still honor amonst the climbing community or am I adding my gear to someones booty pile? El Cap sure would be easier though. I guess I may still be too stuborn for easy over what I want to get done.
I noticed a guide for Tis-sa-ack says there is major seepage through june? How crowded in this part of the season would it be? Being from the north makes july and august too hot and I wouldn't be able to carry enough water. Is Sept. traffic so busy that I would be in the way? I know solo is slow and I have as much right to be there as the next guy, but I definitely do not want to ruin the trip for many others. That would take away from the pleasure of my trip also.
Boy this makes Zodiac seem like a wiser choice. Thanks for the info and now I've got too much crap in the bean and it's getting cloudy again. With your experience I should be able to better assess the situation. I'm sure I'll be asking again soon for more beta.
Bob
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enjoimx
Jan 7, 2007, 8:12 PM
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Old English???? HAHAHA. Nope. Try about 100 bucks per load...thats what me and my friends have done big hauls like that for. schleping up the half dome trail is a bitch man.
Rob
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xtrmecat
Jan 7, 2007, 11:32 PM
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Tip, man, tip! No problem paying a decent wage. Tip always follows good service, which means after the haul, not the night before.
If you or your buddies are serious and in the area when I am going, I wouldn't balk at hiring someone. Just need to know how to make contact. Yea I know it is a bitch of a walk, that is the very reason for trying to work it out ahead of time.
Bob
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lambone
Jan 8, 2007, 4:45 AM
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if you don't do it all yourself it ain't a solo...
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clintcummins
Jan 8, 2007, 8:22 PM
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Bob wrote:
In reply to: Being from the north makes july and august too hot and I wouldn't be able to carry enough water.
I'm not sure where you are getting your temperature forecasts from, but July is usually a perfect time to climb Half Dome - it's not too hot. Facing NW, it only gets sun late in the day. There can often be a 90+ heat wave on the Valley floor in September. I wouldn't choose September over July.
In June the snow at the base changes quickly. In early June, there could be snow along the descent from the trail/shoulder down to the base, but it varies. There is also usually a small snowslope at the base in early June. You can climb over or under it to start the route, but it could make traversing along the base more difficult.
I second Lambone's observation on what a true solo is, although of course you are free to define it yourself. Lots of good advice from him and others in this thread.
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tradclmbr
Jan 8, 2007, 8:38 PM
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I actually think WF Leaning Tower would be the next logical step before half dome. Much easier logistics to solo (not that I know ive only done it with a partner). Plus the top out will solidify your next objective (el cap). Ive done lurking fear too, but the upper section would suck solo with a lot of gear. Triple Direct or Nose? Ive done the former and think it would be a good solo with pre-hauled bags to heart if not mammoth. Easy approaches, easy climbing, but long long routes. more climbing less schlepping.
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stymingersfink
Jan 10, 2007, 4:07 AM
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lambone wrote: if you don't do it all yourself it ain't a solo...
nah, that's not quite the whole story... see Libecki's greenland solo slideshow from a couple years ago? He certainly didn't swim there on his own, did he?
I guess that would beg the question where does one draw the line to define a solo? For me it begins at the base of the route and ends at the topout. Anywhere other than on-route, indegenous peoples are merely resources to be traded for on the local open market... beer, pizza, beads or frogskins, its all the same.
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lambone
Jan 10, 2007, 9:39 AM
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I hear ya, but it's definately more satisfying when you do all the heavy lifting on your own.
makes the beer taste better at least...
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iamthewallress
Jan 10, 2007, 4:45 PM
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lambone wrote: I hear ya, but it's definately more satisfying when you do all the heavy lifting on your own...
FWIW, one of the most satisfying experiences I've had associated w/ a wall was finding my bf on the summit with snacks. The snacks were the best, and I felt very loved to have someone willing to spend hours hiking with loads for me. The summit bivy and descent was more enjoyable w/ his company. It wasn't solo, but whose to say what one shoudl find the most satisfying but the person getting satisfaction?
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climbingaggie03
Jan 10, 2007, 5:26 PM
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I'd carry loads to el cap, but I'd have to have been in camp 4 for a long time and really need the money to haul bags up all those stairs on the half dome trail. Still I'm sure there are guys in camp 4 that will do it. All you gotta do is post up on the kiosk, and I bet you'll have enough people within a few days.
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