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localshredder
Jan 4, 2007, 8:43 AM
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I was just wondering what the difference between these three materials was? Strength ratings, diameter, durability, etc..
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devils_advocate
Jan 4, 2007, 6:13 PM
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I've seen it referenced multiple times in literature as being slightly different. Sometimes its inferred that there are differences in the weave and possibly small differences in composistion, but nobody is forthright in saying exactly what the differences are. That said, I've seen it in literature that it's the exact same.
From the end user point of view, I'm sure it doesn't matter either way.
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localshredder
Jan 5, 2007, 1:02 AM
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Thanks alot. I always wondered if it was just a name thing.
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tallmark515
Jan 5, 2007, 2:48 AM
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Same thing, just different names. They're special fibers woven into the nylon to increase the strength. The special fibers are also lighter than nylon making the sling a hair lighter for all you weight conscious climbers. Check out the bluewater spectra runners, 27kn.
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tradrenn
Jan 5, 2007, 4:07 AM
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tallmark515 wrote: Check out the bluewater spectra runners, 27kn.
They are tube where others are flat. I have few of them, they are pretty nice.
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knudenoggin
Jan 5, 2007, 7:07 AM
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"Dynex" seems to denote a few things, including a rope brand,
and also a generic--HMPE--fibre type (which I understand was done
so as to enable the vendor to use whichever of Spectra or Dyneema
was available).
Spectra & Dyneema are indeed brand names for HMPE fibers,
but they come in various grades, with some difference in quality.
DSM developed/discovered a general process for making the material,
and Allied Fiber (USA) was first to produce a product--viz., Spectra.
By agreement, Dyneema was kept out of the US market for a while.
(Outdoor Knots gives brief histories of many of the rope materials.
And that Wikipedia entry has links to other sources (but seems to be
written from a DSM perspective!?))
Differences in the processing produce some differences in the fibres,
with Dyneema being finer than Spectra. Puget Sound ropes produces
a Spectra fibre they call "Plasma" for which they have some special claims
(and used to have some paper comparing attributes for it vs. Dyneema!).
*kN*
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crackers
Jan 5, 2007, 3:34 PM
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Dynex I can not comment on.
As for spectra and Dyneema, their chemical structure is the same, but their molecular structure is slightly different. As far as I know, DSM came up with the chemical and molecular structure and patented it. For some strange reason, the US Military wanted a lot of the stuff, and Allied (then allied signal then honeywell) figured out how to make something very similar on an industrial basis. Hence the license, but, because the molecular structure is apparently slightly different, a different name.
Today, DSM and Honeywell make Dyneema and Spectra in the USA. I've never seen 'normal' fabric made from Spectra, ie, I've only seen ballastic materials made out of the stuff. However, my ripstop comes from the mill labeled as "spectra", and well, since they're making the stuff, I feel like believing them.
AFAIK, Dynex is generic. AKA made in China, not by DSM or by Honeywell.
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mingleefu
Jan 6, 2007, 9:13 PM
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i understand also that the nature of dyneema and spectra makes it very difficult to dye. The colored strands on your slings are nylon, woven in to the white strands of dyneema/spectra.
Trivia for the day.
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andypro
Jan 7, 2007, 12:31 AM
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Dynex appearantly IS dyneema. It's a finished product made by a company called hampidjan. This is what some serious google searching came up with anyways. There are about a million thigns called "dynex"!!
And yes, spectra and dyneema cant be dyed. Hence the weaving of the nylon.
--Andy P
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slacklinejoe
Jan 9, 2007, 3:31 PM
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andypro wrote: And yes, spectra and dyneema cant be dyed. Hence the weaving of the nylon. --Andy P
No, it's difficult and expensive to dye them. I have some spectra with a high vis yellow dye job - yes actual fibers dyed, not coated or other fibers woven.
The nylon is not there for color (or at least not exclusively), it's there for abrasion/heat resistance and other characteristics that improve the end product over pure spectra / dyneema. There are lots of proprietary weaves to change the overall characteristics of the end product.
(This post was edited by slacklinejoe on Jan 9, 2007, 3:33 PM)
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knudenoggin
Jan 9, 2007, 9:46 PM
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"Dynex" is apparently two trade names meaning different things;
it is NOT equal to "Dyneema".
And I don't believe that there is any nylon in the current HMPE slings
--no hint of this at Sterling's or Black Diamond's sites (no hint of slings
at Mammut's!?). HMPE is more abrasion resistant than nylon, and in
any case the dyed & undyed fibres both make equal presence on the
surface, so there'd be no benefit for heat/UV/abrasion to mixing fibres.
And certainly HMPE can be colored: Cortland/PugetSound's Plasma ropes
are purple; Samson's Amsteel Blue is <guess :->.
*kN*
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slacklinejoe
Jan 9, 2007, 9:55 PM
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knudenoggin wrote: And I don't believe that there is any nylon in the current HMPE slings
Rest assured there is a reason why nylon is still in spectra / dyneema slings.
Ultra Tape for instance (used to make webolettes):
In reply to: ... in the late eighties (with the growth in popularity of recreational climbing) special webs were evolved with hybrid material components - like Spectra - which allowed lighter and more compact patterns to be woven specifically for the climbing market. This new material coupled with advances in sewing techniques and thread all but have retired the "traditional" 1" tubular material - which today seems heavy and "old school" and better suited for industrial purposes. One such material is Mountain Tools® Ultratape™ - an 11/16" wide hybrid of Nylon® , Spectra® and Dacron reg. The key design parameter of Ultratape™ is the balance of these components for optimum climbing performance - strong and light with super abrasion resistance as well as high strength.
From: http://mtntools.com/...olette/webowhat.html
From Yates
In reply to: "Dyneema" webbing consists of a blend of Dyneema and Nylon fibers woven together to form a webbing that has superior properties. The bonus of Dyneema fiber is that it is stronger, lighter and absorbs less water compared to Nylon. The down side of Dyneema is that it melts at a much lower temperature than Nylon. We have developed an exclusive weave pattern for our 11mm and 14mm Dyneema webbing that maximizes the benefits of both fibers. Our weave pattern has been shown to be superior in abrasion and snagging tests. Our Unique Nylon edge weave eliminates Dyneema fibers snagging on crystals and �pulling� from the webbing!
From http://www.yatesgear.com/...ing/slings/index.htm
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