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TBlake84
Jan 12, 2007, 3:58 AM
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Hey guys, I know there is a crapload of questions on this board about toprope anchors but the last time I had a question and didn't start a new thread I got flamed for it.
I have started climbing at a new crag (Quincy Quarries in Quincy, MA) and my cordalette is only the standard lenght (21'). I have yet to set the anchor at this crag but I have been told I need a long runner. No one specified exactly how long so here is my question.
Can I use spectra/dyneema slings to extend the bolts so I can use my current cordalette or is that unsafe? I was think it would progress like this from the bolt. Bolt>locking D Biner>Dyneema Sling>Locking D>Cordalette. Of course I would have two sets of these. Is this alright? I was told Dyneema is no good for this purpose because it doesn't stretch at all unlike nylon.
Thanks guys.
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majid_sabet
Jan 12, 2007, 4:08 AM
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buy some webbing 30 feet of it and get this thing over with or else get ready for BBQ part II.
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carabiner96
Jan 12, 2007, 4:10 AM
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It's ok if the dyneema doesn't stretch; in fact, you want your anchor to be static in the system. The dynamic part of the system comes from the belay and the climbing rope - having a static anchor can actually be dangerous.
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TBlake84
Jan 12, 2007, 4:13 AM
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Dude... what the hell? This is the friggin "beginner's section", we're gonna ask repeptitive and stupid questions. If you don't like it, don't read it. Also, I have yet to find a single person on this site with over 500 posts who has the common courtesy to politely answer a question.
I don't know but this whole rockclimbing.com experience is beginning to make me think you're all assholes. Stop posting so much, get off your asses and computers and go climb so you can take your pent up anger out on the rock.
It was a simple, innocent question.
(This post was edited by TBlake84 on Jan 12, 2007, 4:15 AM)
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TBlake84
Jan 12, 2007, 4:15 AM
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Thank you carabiner96... thats exactly the answer I was looking for.
I'll refer to you from now on as nice person #1.
(This post was edited by TBlake84 on Jan 12, 2007, 4:17 AM)
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nuts_bolts
Jan 12, 2007, 4:47 AM
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carabiner96 wrote: ...in fact, you want your anchor to be static in the system...having a static anchor can actually be dangerous.
Say what? 
To the OP, ideally, one long piece of webbing (or cord) is better because it reduces the number of "links" in your anchor. i.e. Sling linked to sling linked to cord, etc. The more "links" you have, the greater number of things that could possibly fail (also more work, more gear, more things to check...).
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carabiner96
Jan 12, 2007, 4:49 AM
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whoops...meant *dynamic* can actually be bad news...oh well it's kate...uh i mean late.
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nuts_bolts
Jan 12, 2007, 5:09 AM
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jimdavis
Jan 12, 2007, 5:22 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: buy some webbing 30 feet of it and get this thing over with or else get ready for BBQ part II.
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andypro
Jan 12, 2007, 7:49 AM
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Edit: Damn! I spent too much time watching cartoons and not enough time typing. My silliness was thwarted 
As for the OP: What kind of anchors are there at this place I've never been to? Are they bolted or natural or are you building them? I'm just curious as to why a regular length cordalette is gonna be too short. But yeah, your plan is fine. I do it all the time and I'm still alive
--Andy P
P.s.- Do I get ot be nice person number two now?! Everyone wants a title ya know....I neeeeeeeed this.
(This post was edited by andypro on Jan 12, 2007, 7:50 AM)
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abock33
Jan 12, 2007, 8:41 AM
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TBlake84 wrote: Dude... what the hell? This is the friggin "beginner's section", we're gonna ask repeptitive and stupid questions. If you don't like it, don't read it. Also, I have yet to find a single person on this site with over 500 posts who has the common courtesy to politely answer a question. I don't know but this whole rockclimbing.com experience is beginning to make me think you're all assholes. Stop posting so much, get off your asses and computers and go climb so you can take your pent up anger out on the rock. It was a simple, innocent question.
!!!Amen Bro!!!
I say keep them on their freakin' computer So I don't have to hear them at the crag.
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svilnit
Jan 12, 2007, 10:36 AM
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TBlake84 wrote: Dude... what the hell? This is the friggin "beginner's section", we're gonna ask repeptitive and stupid questions. If you don't like it, don't read it. Also, I have yet to find a single person on this site with over 500 posts who has the common courtesy to politely answer a question. I don't know but this whole rockclimbing.com experience is beginning to make me think you're all assholes. Stop posting so much, get off your asses and computers and go climb so you can take your pent up anger out on the rock. It was a simple, innocent question.
Easy Princess... if you looked at Madjit's response he did answer your question. Instead of buying spectra to attach to cordalette, why not just buy one big piece of webbing and reduce some "links" in the system?
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pro_alien
Jan 12, 2007, 12:04 PM
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Toprope anchor can be static, your rope is dynamic. An overly dynamic anchor would rub against the rock when the load changes.
I would have no qualms about using a dyneema sling as part of this anchor. Of course, the fewer elements you have in series, the fewer things can go wrong...
Also keep in mind the angle between the two arms of the cordelette - the bigger the angle the more side load you will put on the bolts (see "American death triangle").
Pascal
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TBlake84
Jan 12, 2007, 5:10 PM
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Thanks guys... I got my answer. Svilnit, he never did answer my question. I know I SHOULD use a full length of webbing, that is pretty easy to understand. But seeing as I am a poor college student (yes, even webbing can seem expensive) what I was asking is if the dyneema was "strong enough" as John Long puts it.
I bought his Climbing Anchors book by the way so I won't be asking anymore noob questions about it. I shall also use two biners at my focal point from now on. Good point.
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thespider
Jan 12, 2007, 5:19 PM
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TBlake84 wrote: Dude... what the hell? This is the friggin "beginner's section", we're gonna ask repeptitive and stupid questions. If you don't like it, don't read it. Also, I have yet to find a single person on this site with over 500 posts who has the common courtesy to politely answer a question. I don't know but this whole rockclimbing.com experience is beginning to make me think you're all assholes. Stop posting so much, get off your asses and computers and go climb so you can take your pent up anger out on the rock. It was a simple, innocent question.
I agree with this statement. I just hope I don't become the asshole when I reach 500 
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tradtimbo
Jan 12, 2007, 6:11 PM
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check your PM
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kevinwaldock
Jan 12, 2007, 7:02 PM
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I usally girth hitch webbing/dynem/etc together then you save biners. just my two cents.
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nuts_bolts
Jan 12, 2007, 7:20 PM
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TBlake84 wrote: Thanks guys... I got my answer. Svilnit, he never did answer my question. I know I SHOULD use a full length of webbing, that is pretty easy to understand. But seeing as I am a poor college student (yes, even webbing can seem expensive) what I was asking is if the dyneema was "strong enough" as John Long puts it. I bought his Climbing Anchors book by the way so I won't be asking anymore noob questions about it. I shall also use two biners at my focal point from now on. Good point.
Ahh, good has been done, n00b question answered, John Long made another royalty, the world is at peace.
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bobruef
Jan 12, 2007, 7:23 PM
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especially dyneema ones, as the op stated he was using. |
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jimdavis
Jan 13, 2007, 12:54 AM
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I haven't read the new JL book, but I don't see how one could be *afraid* of using Dyneema/ Spectra in an anchor. The shit is 10x stronger than steel, lb for lb.
Just use it properly.
Nylon might be king, but that doesn't make spectra unsafe, as long as you're using it correctly.
Jim
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socalclimber
Jan 13, 2007, 1:37 AM
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I really dislike dealing with webbing. My suggestion would be to buy about 75 feet of 11mil static. Why so much? You can build multiple anchors with one piece, you can wrap huge rocks if need be. The big plus is that the static will last for ever. If you climb as much my crew and I do, that webbing won't last 3 months. It also handles rough edges very well. Also, if you need setup your anchor far back from the edge, the extra length of the static works like a champ to extend it over the edge.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jan 13, 2007, 1:42 AM)
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kixx
Jan 13, 2007, 2:54 AM
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I agree with socialclimber - only collect 25 ft, 50ft, and 75 ft lengths and then slip a 12 ft length of 1" tube webbing over each one and slide it to the middle (this takes some patience) . The webbing makes your knot area, which is usually the area hanging over the rock edge) more abrasion resistant, and alowing the static line to last even longer. The line can be adjusted by clove hitching and wrapping a tree, rock, cloved to pro or biners on bolts.... just about anything. There is no better top rope anchor setup that I've seen unless your setting up on bolts on the actual face in which case all you need are two long draws and appropriate biners.
Take only one of these stat lines with you depending on how far back from the edge you anticipate being. I know you mentioned you didn't like lugging this around but it's a lot less than multiple slings and biners to accomplish the same thing less securely... especial in MA where most TR are from back away from the edge.
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socalclimber
Jan 13, 2007, 3:04 AM
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Agreed Kixx, I'm just to lazy, but I do use the webbing on my static that is used for guiding. If he's really that worried about carrying around too much stuff. He should do what we do, one person brings the rack, one brings a rope or two, and anyone else brings excess important stuff like beer.
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curt
Jan 13, 2007, 6:00 AM
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TBlake84 wrote: Dude... what the hell? This is the friggin "beginner's section", we're gonna ask repeptitive and stupid questions. If you don't like it, don't read it. Also, I have yet to find a single person on this site with over 500 posts who has the common courtesy to politely answer a question. I don't know but this whole rockclimbing.com experience is beginning to make me think you're all assholes. Stop posting so much, get off your asses and computers and go climb so you can take your pent up anger out on the rock. It was a simple, innocent question.
Looks like you're going to fit right in.
Curt
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