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oldsalt
Jan 14, 2007, 10:14 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1064 views)
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Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 919
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[Disclaimer]
I freely admit that I am engaging in risky behavior, but I am doing it thoughtfully and accepting the inherent risks. I do not advocate others to do so.
Yesterday, I completed my first two solo trad leads. I am posting because I want to share the wonderful experience with others and not to encourage anyone to attempt to climb beyond their clear limits.
[/Disclaimer]
Jimmy (great partner) is nursing a bum wrist, so I went to SandRock, Alabama to do a personal first: a solo trad lead. I invented (Patent Pending) a solo lead device that I have referenced in other posts in the past. I call it the Guardian, and it has been seen by people from various companies for possible sale.
I have made a number of single and multiple pitch solo sport leads on the Guardian and I trust it with my life. I have cleaned a number of routes for Jimmy, read extensively, and pseudo-led routes with a top-rope backup while placing pro. My first and only previous gear lead was the second pitch of Cave Route at Table Rock.
Yesterday, a beautiful day in the mid 70s in northern Alabama, I built a solid ground anchor with two sturdy trees and re-traced a route that I had done twice before with backup. The only difference was that I was belayed by the Guardian and not Jimmy.
I arrived with a specific plan and I followed it exactly: climb if I felt like it and not if I felt fearful. Like other experiences that I have enjoyed while climbing, I am fortunate to be able to concentrate on the task at hand and not get caught up with "the rush" or "the fear." OK, "the rush" is great, but I only feel it on descent or back on deck.
I have left gear numerous times while bailing when a solo sport climb didn't feel right, and I have no regrets when I do. Fortunately, I was able to plan and execute the climb in an excellent state of concentration.
All that aside, I sent a popular top rope route on West Side Block using my device and placing pro and slinging a horn. Once off of the ground, I was in a state of intense concentration that remained until I found myself looking at the rap hangers (no rings) at the top, which were now just inches from my face.
Once down, I enjoyed the heady sensation of accomplishment. I had seen protection opportunities and then matched gear to them. I usually stay on the Guardian and lower with the lever, but I rapped on both strands just in case the anchor was not as good as I hoped. I used an autoblock hitch on a 6mm cord and let it take my weight while cleaning.
After a break, I moved to the Standard Route on the Pinncle. It was tough finding suitable protection opportunities and I soon went below the boulder where most begin climbing and found a 1 foot wide by 3 inch piece of rock protruding from the base of the boulder. I wrapped 3 turns of 1" webbing around it and then secured it back against the side of the boulder with a blue tri-cam so it wouldn't slip off.
I added a #7 Flex Cam to stabilize the rope and provide a second solid anchor, then went up to start climbing. Despite having cleaned this route twice before, I couldn't find the crack that allows you to feed a stopper or hex wire from left to right through the arete and clip the most bomb proof placement you can imagine.
The route is easy to protect, and I soon reached the top. I love the view from the top of the Pinnacle, but today I was exhausted from concentration. I rapped down and began pulling the rope through the anchor rings. I noticed, too late, that I was pulling an overhand knot up the face, instead of a smooth rope. I had to boulder up about 15' to retrieve the end and free the rope.
I belayed a nice guy from Chattanooga up to set a top rope and then visited with him and his friends before leaving. Climbers seem to be much nicer as a group outside than some you find on rc.com, ever notice that?
I had a great day and look forward to more trad leads with belayer or with the Guardian.
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tattooed_climber
Jan 14, 2007, 10:28 PM
Post #2 of 4
(1055 views)
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Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838
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i do a bit of solo-aid
if ya ever need a tester, ahem...cus my grigri could use a break
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saxfiend
Jan 15, 2007, 2:16 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1015 views)
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Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208
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Congratulations! I've read your other reports on using this device (at Yonah, I think), and it sounds like you're feeling very confident in it.
Next time you're at Sandrock, you should lead Knob Wall using your Guardian; it's a nice long lead but not too stessful. Or if you're feeling aggressive, do Pin Chimney (around the corner from the Standard Route).
Let me know when you're coming, I'd like to watch the Guardian in action.
JL
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csgambill
Jan 16, 2007, 8:25 PM
Post #4 of 4
(918 views)
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Registered: May 3, 2004
Posts: 607
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I hope the Guardian takes off! Sounds like a great device, I'd love to check it out.
Congrats on the solo trad lead! I hope it's the first of many such leads.
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