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afreeclimber


Jan 15, 2007, 2:53 AM
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GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads
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I want to use my GriGri for roped, solo free-climbing. I've read everything I could find on the net and have come across two different methods for orienting the GriGri relative to the harness.

Method 1-The GriGri is attached to the belay loop as it would normally be when used to belay a leader. The anchored end of the solo lead rope is placed in the GriGri so that the "tail" is coming out the "brake" end of the device. When soloing, the GriGri just hangs from the belay loop and the slack rope on the "brake" side is clipped in loops to the harness, or hanging free (the latter may cause the device to lock up unintentionally).

Method 2-The GriGri is attached to the belay loop upside down. It has been modified in some way to give it a loop of cord at the nose of the "brake" end of the device. The GriGri is held up, flush with the wearer's chest and attached to a chest harness of some sort. While climbing, the rig keeps the GriGri oriented this way.

My question is, if you use the GriGri for soloing, which method do you use? Did you choose one method over another, or where you aware of only the one way? Specifics appreciated.


(This post was edited by afreeclimber on Jan 15, 2007, 5:34 AM)


Partner philbox
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Jan 15, 2007, 7:04 AM
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Warning, safety advice follows. [In reply to]
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Do not ever rope solo with a Gri Gri unless you use a D mallion. Buy the biggest mallion that will fit through the biner hole. Biners have been known to break during rope solo missions. The Gri Gri can ride down the spine of the Gri Gri and torque the biner in such a way that the spine of the biner can snap with the forces induced during a fall. Don't be that guy. The D mallion is fitted through the hole of the Gri Gri and also through your waist and leg loops. The D Mallion is constructed in such a way that it can stand triaxial loading and thus may be used in this configuration where a carabiner cannot.


majid_sabet


Jan 15, 2007, 7:17 AM
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Re: [afreeclimber] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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afreeclimber wrote:
the "brake" side is clipped in loops to the harness, or hanging free .

Warning
Do not be the next report on I & A section
You never let the brake rope just hang free,in fact just forget about soloing go find a partner.


flamer


Jan 15, 2007, 5:39 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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Seriously...if you can't figure out this very simple mechanical problem, you have no business rope soloing.


josh


useyourfeet


Jan 15, 2007, 6:14 PM
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Re: [afreeclimber] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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I don't like soloing with a gri-gri even while aid climbing- let alone free. Its a pain in the ass. Either get a silent partner or a, uh, 'real' partner


afreeclimber


Jan 15, 2007, 6:26 PM
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Re: [philbox] Warning, safety advice follows. [In reply to]
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Not even close to answering my question, but thanks for including useful information that others can read and use.
However, there do seem to be other safe methods of attaching the GriGri to the harness without a mallion, like a steel locking biner, Belay Master locker, and sling backup threaded through the biner hole in the device.


afreeclimber


Jan 15, 2007, 6:31 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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Not even close to answering my question.
Letting the brake side of the rope hang doesn't cause any safety problem at all.


afreeclimber


Jan 15, 2007, 6:40 PM
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Re: [flamer] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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Flamer, your response is lame. You didn't answer my question. You're just letting your ego get the better of you. If you had everything about climbing figured out to the smallest detail before you ever started, then good for you. However, I'm sure this isn't the case. You just get an ego boost from telling others how this or that is too hard or dangerous or technical for them to try.

If you bothered to read my post, I asked my question because I've found two different ways of doing something. These are systems that other people use to rope solo. I just want to hear from people who use these different systems, especially why someone would bother with the chest rig setup when others are setting up without one.


healyje


Jan 15, 2007, 6:46 PM
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Re: [afreeclimber] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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- Rope in small pack (GoLite "Race" w/ A5 rope bag)

- Grigri with tab cut out - face up, on mallion OR

- Edelrid Eddy - burly steel biner / 9.8mm Metolius Monster rope (dry)

- Screamer in anchor loop


flamer


Jan 15, 2007, 6:59 PM
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Re: [afreeclimber] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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afreeclimber wrote:
Flamer, your response is lame. You didn't answer my question. You're just letting your ego get the better of you. If you had everything about climbing figured out to the smallest detail before you ever started, then good for you. However, I'm sure this isn't the case. You just get an ego boost from telling others how this or that is too hard or dangerous or technical for them to try.

If you bothered to read my post, I asked my question because I've found two different ways of doing something. These are systems that other people use to rope solo. I just want to hear from people who use these different systems, especially why someone would bother with the chest rig setup when others are setting up without one.

I can tell you this...when I started climbing, especially when i started roped soloing, I had enough mechanical aptitude to figure it out myself. There was no internet to ask question's because I was too stupid to know simple mechanic's.

josh


Partner holdplease2


Jan 15, 2007, 7:07 PM
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Re: [afreeclimber] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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The people who are using the chest rig have likely set up their grigri to "self feed". This is particularly helpful when aid climbing. It includes removing the "tab" from the grigri that is included in the design to hold the rope in constant contact with the cam, regardless of the direction of pull.

With this setup, the grigri functions a bit more like a soloist, and it is held in the upward position so that the rope feeds when the direction of pull is down (toward the anchor) but is more likely to lock up when the direction pulls up, in the event that you take a lead fall past gear.

These folks also seem to believe that the piece of cord thru the grigri (a drilled hole) will keep them oriented upright in the event of a fall.

This modification, to me, is not such a great idea. I like the tab keeping the rope in contact with the lockign cam no matter what. As I use the system for aid climbing only (use a silent partner for free) self feeding isn't as important for me. With my mammut supersafe (slippery sheath) 10.2 (thin for an aid lead line) I find that it self-feeds most of the time anyway.

I attach the grigri to my harness only and use a steel biner, though I should use the D steel thing. I'll get one eventually. The grigri can bind on the spine of the biner and snap the biner itself OR snap its own eye.

*that said* I did answer your question the best I can but still have to say that:

If you have read all that is out there and are still asking these questions, then I do caution you in the direction of Flamer's posts. There are many good discussions of grigri modification and solo systems over on the Supertopo forums as well as on this web site. I'd recommend reading all of them super-close before giving it a go. Also get some screamers and understant the limits of clove hitches in the solo anchor system.

-Kate.

Josh - When do we send again? I'm on the way to Josh with my wall rack, lets talk Zion!


flamer


Jan 15, 2007, 7:11 PM
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Re: [holdplease2] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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holdplease2 wrote:
Josh - When do we send again? I'm on the way to Josh with my wall rack, lets talk Zion!

Oh hell...now we're in trouble!!

Give me a call....DS?

josh


afreeclimber


Jan 15, 2007, 8:31 PM
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Re: [holdplease2] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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I take it then that your GriGri is oriented, in relation to your harness, in the normal, upright position (as if you were to belay a leader).
I don't feel compelled to modify the tab on the back of the GriGri either, as I can plainly see how that would increase the chance of the rope being caught behind the release handle during a lead fall.
I'm also aware of the possibility that the biner could cross-load on the GriGri. I've had this happen when belaying normally with this device in the past. To remedy the problem, I wrapped 5 or so passes of small cord around the spine side of the biner, near the top, and then wrapped plastic tape over that. The resulting diameter is too big for the attaching hole of the GriGri to move past, as is the locking sleeve of the biner I used. The GriGri now stays at the top end of the biner no matter what.
Thanks for providing info, not BS.


afreeclimber


Jan 15, 2007, 8:34 PM
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Re: [healyje] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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Healyje,
Why do you choose to use the GriGri face up w/o a chest rig?
Most posters on this site, as I've read, seem to use an inverted GriGri and a chest rig.
Did you ever use such a system in the past, but found it lacking?


greenketch


Jan 15, 2007, 8:50 PM
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Re: [afreeclimber] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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Free, the system that I use is with the gri attatched to the harness with a biner. The rope from me to the anchor exits the device on the side marked as to the climber. The brake side comes out an I gather this rope in a series of loops generally about 6-8 feet in length. These have an fig 8 tied in them and then clipped to another HMS biner. I keep that one also clipped at the tie in. These knots serve as a back up if there is any trouble with the device they catch.

In addition I use the aforementioned hole to tie the top of the device to a chest harness. This keeps the orientation correct for the rope to feed as I climb. That part is the same as what a silent partner uses.

Hope this helps your question some.


afreeclimber


Jan 15, 2007, 9:01 PM
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Re: [flamer] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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First off, this site does exist and I have no problem using it as a resource to learn from others. My thanks to those who take the time to provide good information.

Secondly, your grammar and punctuation are terrible. If you improved on them, your posts would be easier to read and understand.

Thirdly, I'm not stupid, nor do I lack mechanical aptitude, but thanks for barking down my snorkel for asking a question on a climbing forum designed for people to ask questions. Why do you even bother to answer? Don't you think there are enough narcissistic climbers spouting the clichéd warnings of impending doom to others simply wanting to learn something new? It's always the climber whose ego and identity are dependent on climbing that insists something is too much for a noob to learn. Climbing doesn't make you anybody special!


healyje


Jan 15, 2007, 9:08 PM
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Re: [afreeclimber] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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afreeclimber wrote:
I take it then that your GriGri is oriented, in relation to your harness, in the normal, upright position (as if you were to belay a leader).

Yes.

afreeclimber wrote:
I don't feel compelled to modify the tab on the back of the GriGri either, as I can plainly see how that would increase the chance of the rope being caught behind the release handle during a lead fall.

You have to decide these things for yourself. If I were worried about the rope catching the handle I'd either shorten it a bit or switch to an Edelrid Eddy (and just for the record I dislike both devices for normal belaying and only use them for roped soloing).

afreeclimber wrote:
I'm also aware of the possibility that the biner could cross-load on the GriGri. I've had this happen when belaying normally with this device in the past. To remedy the problem, I wrapped 5 or so passes of small cord around the spine side of the biner, near the top, and then wrapped plastic tape over that. The resulting diameter is too big for the attaching hole of the GriGri to move past, as is the locking sleeve of the biner I used. The GriGri now stays at the top end of the biner no matter what.

With a grigri I'd say some form of rapid mallion is the only way to go. I use one off my belay loop with a grigri and then back it up with a short Mammut 6mm dyneem sling to a Trango Superfly locker through the harness loops.

afreeclimber wrote:
Why do you choose to use the GriGri face up w/o a chest rig? Most posters on this site, as I've read, seem to use an inverted GriGri and a chest rig. Did you ever use such a system in the past, but found it lacking?


I keenly dislike the idea of the grigri oriented for rope feeding versus catching falls. This is another case where if that is your priority then you should definitely switch to the Eddy.

At this point I've tried pretty much every conceivable way of soloing with a rope for free climbing and after thirty years of doing it the main opinion I have of it is that all systems suck. The secondary opinion I've come to is that folks finding their way to roped soloing need to come to their own conclusions as to what works best for them...


(This post was edited by healyje on Jan 15, 2007, 9:08 PM)


flamer


Jan 15, 2007, 10:28 PM
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Re: [afreeclimber] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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afreeclimber wrote:
First off, this site does exist and I have no problem using it as a resource to learn from others. My thanks to those who take the time to provide good information.

Secondly, your grammar and punctuation are terrible. If you improved on them, your posts would be easier to read and understand.

Thirdly, I'm not stupid, nor do I lack mechanical aptitude, but thanks for barking down my snorkel for asking a question on a climbing forum designed for people to ask questions. Why do you even bother to answer? Don't you think there are enough narcissistic climbers spouting the clichéd warnings of impending doom to others simply wanting to learn something new? It's always the climber whose ego and identity are dependent on climbing that insists something is too much for a noob to learn. Climbing doesn't make you anybody special!

WAIT!!! This site exsist's??? Holy mary mother of god you're a genius!!! It's a good thing you have this site, you'd clearly get no where without it.
Oh yes my grammar is horrendous!! And I could careless, spelling and grammar matter very little when your ass is on the line, kid.
This stuff isn't rocket science. It's not to much for noobs to learn. However if you have to ask this kind of question it just might be.

Now you challenge my ego and Identity....and imply that everything relies on climbing? Wow there's a good one! I've been around the block in climbing.
I've seen noobs with no business doing what they were doing come very close to dying. I'm not going to pull my punch's when someone needs a good gut check. You wanna imply that my ego is being hurt? Why because another person wants to learn to rope solo? Who cares? It's not like you're anything special or new....

Do us all a favor and don't get hurt.

josh


quiteatingmysteak


Jan 15, 2007, 10:34 PM
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Re: [flamer] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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pay a bum




dynosore


Jan 16, 2007, 5:38 PM
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sent you a PM afree


rock_tao


Jan 16, 2007, 5:54 PM
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Re: [flamer] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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Josh;
I consider myself a quiet reader of the Forums on RC.com. However, I too find your posts (for the original question) generally useless. Why do you feel compelled to flame? What possible good comes from it?

I would surmise that you are an angry person that has something to prove. Look inward to find your answers.

david


flamer


Jan 16, 2007, 7:51 PM
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rock_tao wrote:
Josh;
I consider myself a quiet reader of the Forums on RC.com. However, I too find your posts (for the original question) generally useless. Why do you feel compelled to flame? What possible good comes from it?

I would surmise that you are an angry person that has something to prove. Look inward to find your answers.

david

You thought that was a flame??

Don't be such an asshat.

You know what good could come of it? Maybe another knucklehead will look alittle closer at what they are doing before they do something stupid. Which is a common theme around here.

...and if that doesn't fit into your peaceful little world maybe you should look deep within yourself...you'd at least find your head...which appears to be firmly lodged up your ass....see that's a flame.

josh


rock_tao


Jan 16, 2007, 8:11 PM
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Re: [flamer] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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flamer wrote:
rock_tao wrote:
Josh;
I consider myself a quiet reader of the Forums on RC.com. However, I too find your posts (for the original question) generally useless. Why do you feel compelled to flame? What possible good comes from it?

I would surmise that you are an angry person that has something to prove. Look inward to find your answers.

david

You thought that was a flame??

Don't be such an asshat.

You know what good could come of it? Maybe another knucklehead will look alittle closer at what they are doing before they do something stupid. Which is a common theme around here.

...and if that doesn't fit into your peaceful little world maybe you should look deep within yourself...you'd at least find your head...which appears to be firmly lodged up your ass....see that's a flame.

josh

Oh my. Your pride is only surpassed by your skillful (insightful), creative – even novel – verbiage and ensuing condescension; your mother didn’t favor you, did she? Continue the good fight…. And please do live up to your moniker.


quiteatingmysteak


Jan 16, 2007, 10:50 PM
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Re: [rock_tao] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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rock_tao wrote:
flamer wrote:
rock_tao wrote:
Josh;
I consider myself a quiet reader of the Forums on RC.com. However, I too find your posts (for the original question) generally useless. Why do you feel compelled to flame? What possible good comes from it?

I would surmise that you are an angry person that has something to prove. Look inward to find your answers.

david

You thought that was a flame??

Don't be such an asshat.

You know what good could come of it? Maybe another knucklehead will look alittle closer at what they are doing before they do something stupid. Which is a common theme around here.

...and if that doesn't fit into your peaceful little world maybe you should look deep within yourself...you'd at least find your head...which appears to be firmly lodged up your ass....see that's a flame.

josh

Oh my. Your pride is only surpassed by your skillful (insightful), creative – even novel – verbiage and ensuing condescension; your mother didn’t favor you, did she? Continue the good fight…. And please do live up to your moniker.


QQ


flamer


Jan 17, 2007, 12:34 AM
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Re: [rock_tao] GriGri Orientation For Solo Leads [In reply to]
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rock_tao wrote:
And please do live up to your moniker.

If you only knew the real story.....tao boy.

But alas...I'm tried of explaining it and those that need to know do.

josh

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