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wzrdgandalf
Jan 15, 2007, 11:23 PM
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miavzero wrote: angry wrote: I didn't realize that some people actually equate the greatest climber as the one who has pulled the single hardest move. I think I threw up in my mouth a little. Angry, I have the same thoughts. BTW, wasn't your last statement a quote from a sport climber who had just flashed Toxic Turkey at Maple Canyon?
I thought it was ethan pringle on one of the 14ers he flashed. not sure, but i think i heard about him saying that.
PS- amen to that sentiment. Doing the hardest rockclimbing move ever doesnt make you the best ever.
(This post was edited by wzrdgandalf on Jan 15, 2007, 11:24 PM)
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dr_feelgood
Jan 16, 2007, 1:17 AM
Post #52 of 73
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i think we need a points system. Here Goes.
Climbing Skills
____ of points for their hardest sport climb. 15 points for a 5.15a, 14 for a .14 etc.
____ of points for their hardest trad lead. Add 5 for style. If they did a .13, they get 18 points.
____ of points for their hardest aid lead. 2.5 times the grade. A4 equals 10 points.
____ of points for WI lines. Anything above WI4 gets one point per grade.
____ of points for Mixed climbs. Anything over M5 gets one point per grade.
____ of points for their hardest boulder problem. V11 would get them 11 points.
____ First Ascent points. 2 points for every FA under 5.10, 3 for under .13b, and 4 for over .13c Same general idea for boulder problems. Equal points for aid lines over A3
____ 5 points for every big wall/aid line freed.
Mountaineering Skills
____ Five points for each major Summit. One more point for each summit without supplemental oxygen. One repeat on each peak
____ Ten points for FAs on remote faces. Cerro Torre, Kashmir, etc...
Cool Factor
____ One point for each missing digit. Double points if it was lost to a climbing accident. 1.5 points if it was lost to frostbite.
____ Three points for missing nose or ear. Five for eyes.
____ Five points for Climbing on hemp ropes, a swami, pins during trad, or before sticky rubber
Community Involvement
____ Points on a scale of 1-25 for furthering their chosen discipline.
____ Ten points for each rescue they've aided in.
____ Five "big name" points.
It's open to suggestions. He or she with the most points wins.
(This post was edited by dr_feelgood on Jan 16, 2007, 1:23 AM)
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miavzero
Jan 16, 2007, 2:57 AM
Post #53 of 73
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dr_feelgood wrote: i think we need a points system. Here Goes. Climbing Skills ____ of points for their hardest sport climb. 15 points for a 5.15a, 14 for a .14 etc. ____ of points for their hardest trad lead. Add 5 for style. If they did a .13, they get 18 points. ____ of points for their hardest aid lead. 2.5 times the grade. A4 equals 10 points. ____ of points for WI lines. Anything above WI4 gets one point per grade. ____ of points for Mixed climbs. Anything over M5 gets one point per grade. ____ of points for their hardest boulder problem. V11 would get them 11 points. ____ First Ascent points. 2 points for every FA under 5.10, 3 for under .13b, and 4 for over .13c Same general idea for boulder problems. Equal points for aid lines over A3 ____ 5 points for every big wall/aid line freed. Mountaineering Skills ____ Five points for each major Summit. One more point for each summit without supplemental oxygen. One repeat on each peak ____ Ten points for FAs on remote faces. Cerro Torre, Kashmir, etc... Cool Factor ____ One point for each missing digit. Double points if it was lost to a climbing accident. 1.5 points if it was lost to frostbite. ____ Three points for missing nose or ear. Five for eyes. ____ Five points for Climbing on hemp ropes, a swami, pins during trad, or before sticky rubber Community Involvement ____ Points on a scale of 1-25 for furthering their chosen discipline. ____ Ten points for each rescue they've aided in. ____ Five "big name" points. It's open to suggestions. He or she with the most points wins. 
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kansasclimber
Jan 16, 2007, 5:57 AM
Post #54 of 73
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I just wanted to make the point that Tommy did it in less than 24 hours, not 24.5. Yes it was day light savings when he did it, but he didnt need it. And it was 14 piece is what he took, yet he took more for the second round.
Stephen
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nooyoozer
Jan 16, 2007, 7:14 AM
Post #55 of 73
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30 years? for God's sake, please put Bachar on your list... how 'bout a little respect for the elders?
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oldandintheway
Jan 16, 2007, 3:19 PM
Post #56 of 73
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Number one in my opinion, the climber having the most fun.
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eddie_munster
Jan 17, 2007, 2:49 AM
Post #57 of 73
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jakedatc wrote: but the best.. best = hardest? or what.. hardest is the only objective.. subjective stuff will never be sorted out.
numbers aren't objective at all. They're just as subjective as the other factors.
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ofblinkingthings
Jan 17, 2007, 11:11 PM
Post #58 of 73
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in no order.
Chris Sharma
Jason Kehl
Mike Reardon
Steve House
Beth rodden
John Sherman
David breashears
Ed viesturs
Tommy Caldwell
Jon Krakauer (did a lot for the sport)
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vegastradguy
Jan 17, 2007, 11:49 PM
Post #59 of 73
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Bachar
Gill
Caldwell
Potter
Hill
Lowe
Donini
Joe Herbst- put Red Rock on the map. If i knew the names of the folks like him across the country for other areas, i'd say they deserve a list of their own...thanks to all of them for all of their work. they're the true greats of American rock climbing....
Not eligible for the list, but should be:
Croft- He'd be at the top if he was from the US
Beckey- any guy who can turn Solar Slab into a two day big wall deserves to be on the list!
Robbins - also would be at the top if the time frame was longer along with the guys below.
Chouinard
Pratt
Kor
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reno
Jan 18, 2007, 3:52 AM
Post #60 of 73
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In Order:
10: Majid Sabet
9: Jakedatc
8: Niceporch
7: Kodos
6. Rockinthedawgs
5. Rockhomie
4. Power_Tie
3. Madrock
2. Dmullen86
And, the number one climber....
1. Kansasclimber, taking Colorado by STORM!
(This post was edited by reno on Jan 18, 2007, 3:53 AM)
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hasbeen
Jan 18, 2007, 4:59 AM
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Amazing Steve House not being mentioned. He's one of the best mountaineers in the world right now, not just the US. Your missing a lot of other hotshots of the mountaineering world. I doubt if Twight would put himself on such a list. Alex Lowe would probably make anyone's list for talent, ability, and motivation but how does his tick list compare with, say, John Bouchard?
30 years loses Beckey, as well as Kor, Robbins, Harding, Pratt, Breshears and Gill in their prime et al.
Croft is Canadian and if you're adding Canucks, you'd better make a clearer distinction about alpinists. This also will leave out Sonny Trotter.
In the late 70s, Bachar and Kauk were probably the two best rockclimbers in the world and greatly influences every subsequent step in climbing history. FFrom the mid 80s to mid 90s, American men were an also ran in the climbing world--miles behind what was happening at the forefront of the sport. Jim Karn was the only one even playing ball with the big boys.
No question about Hill. She's probably the greatest female climber in history.
It was Sharma and his gen that brought the US back from obscurity and before you write him off you must consider that he's put up two routes in the last two years that are unrepeated and attempted so he's still, arguably, the strongest climber in the world.
Tommy is perhaps the best all around climber in the world today.
Graham, though mainly a boulderer, has a mighty impressive tick list. Perhaps, again, the best on the planet at his disipline.
Most of the others that have been mentioned are/were great stewards of the sport, and fine climbers, but not really at a world standard.
Skinner, however, bears merit because of his big wall exploits. Sure, guys like Caldwell and the Hubers have come along and done stuff in better style but he (with Piana) were the catalysts for this type of thing to be done. He probably deserves a place on the list.
There are many many younger climbers that are off-the-charts strong. Some will undoutably advance the sport but their stories have yet to be written.
If you consider Potter, you must also consider Florine because, for sheer speed, his resume is the finest. Potter has done some amazing things but many involve highlining and base jumping and aren't really a part of climbing's history. He certainly bears discussion, and a place in history, but perhaps not in the top 10 for just climbing. He's more of a climbing personality.
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matttt
Jan 18, 2007, 7:36 PM
Post #62 of 73
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don't forget chongo!
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superbum
Jan 19, 2007, 8:57 AM
Post #63 of 73
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Peter Croft (wait, he's canadian! But he's lived in California for years. Hmmm..)
John Bachar
Jim Donini
Dean Potter
Chris Sharma
Lynn Hill
John Long
Jim Bridwell
Steve House
Mark Twight
Both Hubers
Ronin Ozturk
Caldwell/Rodden (I count them as one now...)
Tony Yaniro
Fred Beckey
and your mama...
(This post was edited by superbum on Jan 19, 2007, 8:59 AM)
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rcnc21
Jan 19, 2007, 12:01 PM
Post #64 of 73
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Can I get a Josh Wharton
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madclimbr13
Jan 19, 2007, 2:37 PM
Post #66 of 73
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1. Alex Lowe
2. Royal Robbins
3. Chris Sharma
4. Tommy Caldwell
5. Warren Hardings
6. Lynn Hill
7. ...
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potreroed
Jan 21, 2007, 4:32 PM
Post #67 of 73
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Interesting how no one has mentioned Jim Erickson or Pete Cleveland.
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sungam
Jan 21, 2007, 5:05 PM
Post #68 of 73
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reno wrote: In Order: 10: Majid Sabet 9: Jakedatc 8: Niceporch 7: Kodos 6. Rockinthedawgs 5. Rockhomie 4. Power_Tie 3. Madrock 2. Dmullen86 And, the number one climber.... 1. Kansasclimber, taking Colorado by STORM!
Dano must be in there. Potter too. No doubt sharma is very strong. Lynn Hill freed the nose. Skinner brought bolts to many countries.
Being from the UK these are most of the names I know.
-Magnus
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raymondjeffrey
Feb 19, 2007, 4:57 PM
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someone said that Tommy Cauldwell isn't an 'all-arounder' cuz he doesn't boulder and I agree. And that makes Tommy even COOLER. This study should be called:
'The 10 best climbers from the US who are not primarily boulderers / slack liners or hip-hop afficionados'.
you dig?
jefro
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euroford
Feb 19, 2007, 5:26 PM
Post #70 of 73
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my opinion probobly has no bearing on the orginial posters question, and really this is kind of a goofy thread in the first place. but to take a slightly diffrent roll on this, drummroll please, eurofords picks for the 10 most influential climbers to me, in other words; the dudes i look up to.
in no specific order and i opologize for bastardizing names.
twight, alowe, jello, ammon, ron o, bridwell, donini, anker, house, potter, middendorf.
dammit, thats elevin. who gets the axe?
(This post was edited by euroford on Feb 19, 2007, 5:27 PM)
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peruvianskies
Feb 19, 2007, 5:29 PM
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For me, Wolfgang Güllich, Dan Osman, and Alain Robert are in the top three. Yeah, I know two of them are (were) not americans, but who cares?
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zeke_sf
Feb 19, 2007, 5:53 PM
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Hey, Reno, that's not fair. I don't think those climbers are all trolls. I thought Jackedatc was real. Hahahahaha, Power_Tie....What about Claudianla? She was wicked strong.
As far as Caldwell not being a complete climber, I don't see those boulder gods doing the big wall shit. The obvious response is they'll start once they can't climb hard anymore  I'm just partial to Rodden/Caldwell because they're the only ones I've actually seen climbing.
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fishbelly
Feb 20, 2007, 6:41 PM
Post #73 of 73
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Definition of a climber: Chouinard or anyone named Lowe.
Chouinards routes and style should have him on every list.
Over 30 years ago Chouinard, Robbins, Barber were pushing the package on all fronts.
Lynn Hill may be the best climber ever.
Not to say the rest atre not worthy. Or not accomplished.
Will they be remebered 30 years from now when some one solos El Cap,s original 5.29 multi pitch in a day.
(This post was edited by fishbelly on Feb 20, 2007, 6:48 PM)
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