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rmiller
Jan 2, 2007, 9:49 PM
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What is your opinion about the best routes in AZ? Sport and Trad. Yes, I am bored at work!
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freeforsum
Jan 4, 2007, 8:01 PM
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rmiller wrote: What is your opinion about the best routes in AZ? Sport and Trad. Yes, I am bored at work!
Climbed in and around Flagg 3 times. For what I climbed:
Trad: The Prow, 11.a gear its at Paridise
Bots: Anything at the pit or Jacks Canyon.
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mrstoltz
Jan 6, 2007, 3:29 PM
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I like "Mickey Goes to Vegas" at Jacks Canyon and "Agatha Christie" on Mt. Lemmon.
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blackwolfe
Jan 17, 2007, 3:51 PM
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Jacks Canyon? This place was only created to keep all of the people from Kleenex out of Flagstaff. With the bolts so close together and the glue on(fake) friendly attitude I guess I can see why its so popular.
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ccox
Jan 18, 2007, 7:52 PM
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I'll say it again: Bagging on Jack's is a cliche.
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superbum
Jan 19, 2007, 9:09 AM
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Anything scary and long in sedona.
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phugganut
Jan 19, 2007, 11:52 AM
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A quick list of personal faves off the top of my head. I'm sure to leave several classics out.
Sedona: Earth Angel, Oak Creek Spire, The Mace (even though I've climbed about it 10,000 times) and some the new routes on The Tower of Bootle (MAJAK line and the new unnamed 11+.
Queen Creek: That climb just left of Spinal Tap that isn't in the book, and of course The Totem Pole.
Cochise: Absinthe of Mallet, with the last 2 pitches following the new, bolted line.
Isolation Canyon: Everything's Gone Green to Gone Gray, Shoot Don't Talk (only b/c it was my first FA), and I still like For a Few Ankles More.
The Pit: Mr Slate & The Abyss.
Jack's Canyon: Crosstown Traffic.
Superstitions: Sidewinder.
McDowell's: Hanging Gardens.
Mt. Lemmon: Da Bulge, Black Feather, and Steel Crazy.
Grand Canyon: Mt Hayden and Zoroaster Temple.
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blackwolfe
Jan 21, 2007, 7:01 PM
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Surprise Canyon down the Diamond Down stretch of the Colorado River has a slew of incredibly hard(the rock) metamorphic granite cracks. Upstream we tried to sink one bolt to link two cracks and after 30 minutes and a burned out gun we drilled 1/4 inch. So far there are only traditional routes but they are rad. Up canyon 200 yards on the right there is an anchor 100 feet up over 5 climbs. Its been up for a year so bring some webbing. It's kind of hard to see but if you step back against the other wall you can see it.
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metrogroaz
Jan 21, 2007, 7:53 PM
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Clear Creek Canyon, Winslow, Deep water soloing, classic trad, hard sport............. nuff said
Just don't pick up hitchhikers, the prison is right there.
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climbsomething
Jan 21, 2007, 8:20 PM
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I don't want to flame anybody for their personal route preferences, but IMO, Mickey isn't really that great. It's a 5.9 sport route and the first route off the trail, so I think it's popular by default. But the ears have been broken and the cactus is still there... so... meh. Jacks has plenty of routes that are better than Mickey, but to each their own.
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ccox
Jan 21, 2007, 9:33 PM
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Purple Shark and Energizer-The Pit
Acid Test Crack and Torpedo-Paradise Forks
Black and Tan-The Waterfall
Mission to Mars and Galactic Hitchiker-Sedona
Under Attack-Jack's
Sheep Thrills-Cochise Stronghold
War Hippies-Isolation Canyon
Dead Sea-The Homestead
Modest Mouse/Immodest Monkey-Solitude Canyon
Friend of the Devil and Crown Jewel-Red Dragon
Slammer Jam and Cotimundi/Candyland-Granite Mountain
Absolute Face-Westside Granite Mountain
Be Here Now-Thumb Butte
Ashes Ashes-The Dells
Soloman-Promised Land
Blind Faith-Sanctuary
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raymondjeffrey
Jan 21, 2007, 10:06 PM
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Totem Pole (5.10d) is pretty damn rad. Pockett Puzzle (5.10a) is THE climb at the Pond. Just about everything down at Atlantis is worth the 5 minute slide/approach down there. Learned to lead on Cool Breeze (5.4) down at the Pancake House.
You'd be hard pressed to find a funner roof than Mr. Slate (5.10b).
Next thread...
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crackmd
Jan 29, 2007, 7:38 PM
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I've only been living in Flag for a few months, but I agree with many of your choices.
Paradise Forks-Acid Test and Paradise Lost
Jack's-Under Attack and Swiss Arete
Overlook-any of the Trinities
Pit-The Joker
Sedona-Castles in the Sand
VRG-Mentor
Isolation-No White Flag
I need to get to Granite Mountain, The Homestead, and Cochise.
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sonso45
Jan 29, 2007, 11:41 PM
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I think the following get my vote:
Granite Mtn:Help me Mr Wizard 11c, Coatmundi Whiteout 11c
Cochise:Abracadaver 11a, Absinthe of Mallet, arete finish 9+
Pinnacle Pk:Sidewinder 11a, Shalayay 11c
Tom's Thumb: Deep Freeze 11a
Queen Creek: Queen's Sceptre 12a (near Atlantis), Damsels in Distress 10+ (Lwr Devil's Cyn)
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roadstead
Feb 2, 2007, 11:01 PM
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Manny,
I think maybe the spice box.
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grippedclimer
Feb 23, 2007, 1:30 AM
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Cochise - Hardskins of our Forefathers with Aerete finish.
Granite Mountain - Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland.
Superstitions - The Odyssey
McDowell's - Hanging Gardens
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sed
Feb 23, 2007, 5:54 PM
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the one i'm on
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luiscis
Mar 16, 2007, 9:14 PM
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By far Leviathan Dome Direct Route in the Catalinas, Tucson
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dthompson47
Mar 17, 2007, 6:01 PM
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Climbing for over 30 years in Arizona and California I like climbing on "Chimney Rock" on top of Bill Williams Mountain in Northern Arizona. A excellent 3 pitch route A1-5.9 on the East side a classic route. I also enjoy climbing the Mace in Sedona , Arizona.
(This post was edited by dthompson47 on Mar 17, 2007, 8:07 PM)
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climbsomething
Mar 17, 2007, 8:14 PM
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As for what's good at the crag level, you really can't go wrong anywhere at the Homestead (limestone sport in the desert) or its polar opposite, Paradise Forks (basalt cracks in the woods).
Arizona climbing is remarkably diverse. Even what's kinda lame to one person is rad to another. We truly have it all for rock climbers. But we'll let Colorado continue to think it's the cat's ass
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crackmd
Mar 17, 2007, 11:37 PM
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ccox wrote: Purple Shark and Energizer-The Pit Acid Test Crack and Torpedo-Paradise Forks Black and Tan-The Waterfall Mission to Mars and Galactic Hitchiker-Sedona Under Attack-Jack's Sheep Thrills-Cochise Stronghold War Hippies-Isolation Canyon Dead Sea-The Homestead Modest Mouse/Immodest Monkey-Solitude Canyon Friend of the Devil and Crown Jewel-Red Dragon Slammer Jam and Cotimundi/Candyland-Granite Mountain Absolute Face-Westside Granite Mountain Be Here Now-Thumb Butte Ashes Ashes-The Dells Soloman-Promised Land Blind Faith-Sanctuary
It's hard for me to consider The Energizer in the running for "best route in AZ". It is a fun route and really cool to do laps on. Its short length (about 45 feet) with two excellent rests cut down the excitement as well as classic factor for me.
The criteria I use for designation as an "area classic" are that the route has to either, 1) be a blatent epitomization of all the best an area has to offer, or 2) be diametrically in contrast to what is typical for an area yet still of the highest quality. I would offer Mentor at the VRG and Paradise Lost at PF as examples of #1. I would offer Castles in the Sand as and example of #2 being an Indian Creek type splitter found in Sedona (although I am yet to do Shangri La).
I see the Joker and Total Recall as the classics at the Pit (at least at the harder levels). They are long and varied with multiple cruxes, especially up high on the routes. I consider Mr. Slate a Pit "classic" for its amazing pockets which are typical of Pit climbing but also the fantastic bulge moves which one finds himself climbing much steeper terrain than typically found on 5.10 routes.
Anyway, just my two cents which probably is worth far less than that.
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rmiller
Mar 18, 2007, 3:16 PM
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The 3rd pitch of Shangri La is the biggest 12d sandbag ever. That thing spanked me so hard! The 1st two pitches are very cool and fun. I didn't do 4 and 5, but they look great.
To the left of Shangri La is Smell My Finger and it is wonderful. Every pitch is different and fun. The route tops out now, so you get to summit. This route gets my vote for one of the best "sport" routes in Arizona. Just FYI, there is a short crack on pitch 2 that takes gear. The book says #1 optional, but not for this person. We placed 4 pieces of gear.
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cchas
Mar 21, 2007, 6:46 PM
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Rob, you are bored... but since I am .....
Sport.... haven't done that many in Az but have to say the Joker has lots of quality moves
Trad....Paradise Lost or Three Turkeys (both at Pardise Forks). I love Three Turkeys so much that its usually the frst or second lead I do every time I'm out there. The Prow is pretty good also.
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dirtme
Mar 28, 2007, 4:01 AM
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How about making this more specific. Name the best single pitch routes in AZ that I can climb with my pregnant wife? She'll be 4 months pregnant by the time we head out there. She'll more likely belay the harder stuff and TR in the easy 10 range.
I know we won't be able to climb many of the routes I'd like to in Sedona, but what climbs could get me a feel for AZ and what to do when I'm out there again one day?
I trad low 11's in Yosemite and sport low 12's in most places.
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cchas
Apr 2, 2007, 1:59 PM
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How prego is she? You can walk into Paradise Forks i f rapping is out of the issue. All routes are single pitch and if you are looking for 10's and low .11's definately jump on the Prow, 5.11a. Also over on the Davidsons Wall , Torpedo, and Loose Lips
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