|
go_dyno
Jan 20, 2007, 10:12 AM
Post #1 of 10
(2316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 193
|
Anyone taken the wire toe bail off of the G14 Crampomatics? I'm pulling a Homer S. because I moved them forward last year and need to move them backward for new boots and can't remember how I did it
|
|
|
|
|
kixx
Jan 20, 2007, 10:55 AM
Post #2 of 10
(2312 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2005
Posts: 178
|
Let me know, I need to get mine out to move it forward. Seems like brute force is going to be needed.
|
|
|
|
|
go_dyno
Jan 20, 2007, 11:29 AM
Post #3 of 10
(2310 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 193
|
I know you have to rotate them so that the flattened end can slide thru the oval hole, I just can't remember if its easier to remove the front points first and am not motivated enought to start disassemly at 4am in the morning.
|
|
|
|
|
gbmaz
Jan 20, 2007, 2:41 PM
Post #4 of 10
(2301 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2003
Posts: 95
|
Having done this many times working in a shop I always recommended some vice grips and band-aids for when you puncture your hand.
Then I called the guys at Grivel and they recommended clamping them in a vice and using large pliers. Instead of the obvious pulling the bail out, they recommended "pushing" the bail out by clamping the pliers with one side on the frame of the crampon and the other side on the end of the bail. This seemed to work better and involved less band-aids.
There is no need to remove the front points.
George
|
|
|
|
|
kixx
Jan 20, 2007, 3:10 PM
Post #5 of 10
(2292 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2005
Posts: 178
|
Thanks George, I think the bleeding is starting to slow, and I may be able to get out there and see if those front points are going to bite the ice a little better now that the bail is moved.
|
|
|
|
|
wmfork
Jan 20, 2007, 4:37 PM
Post #6 of 10
(2275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 4, 2006
Posts: 348
|
So did Grivel ever give any reasons on why they've made it so difficult? I tried servicing mine in the field with ice tools to no avail; I guess I should have felt lucky to not having gashed my hands open.
If it isn't so difficult, I can totally see moving it forward on a drying tooling route and move it back on an ice route.
|
|
|
|
|
andypro
Jan 20, 2007, 6:41 PM
Post #7 of 10
(2253 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2003
Posts: 1077
|
I've actually never had any problems with my 'poons. Not the Grivel ones anyways. Maybe I'm innordinately strong and jsut dont know it? I dont think so. I just pull until it stops, then turn it to the right angle to lign up the ovalness and it pops right out. Then the other side just slides off. thats both the front and rear bails. Same thing with my sisters 2F's (I have Rambo R's).
Now my camp hinged crampons...that's a whole nother story. It's got a HARD front bail and the blood sweat and tears definitely comes into play on those ones.
One thought, though. All my grivels have ahd the springy coiled front bail. Do the G-14's not have that? I've never paid attention.
--Andy P
|
|
|
|
|
gbmaz
Jan 20, 2007, 7:27 PM
Post #8 of 10
(2243 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2003
Posts: 95
|
I think the reason the g14 bails are so hard to adjust is that the holes for the bails are drilled before the body of the crampon is stamped into shape. When it is stamped the holes end up at a weird angle that makes it hard to get the bails out. I think the same is probably true with the G12.
If I remember correctly, both the 2F and Rambos have vertical side rails with nicely drilled holes. The problem is caused by the holes in the frame, not the bail.
George "Bloody Knuckles" Marsden
|
|
|
|
|
go_dyno
Jan 21, 2007, 1:56 AM
Post #9 of 10
(2223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 193
|
My G12 are Neumatic, but yes the G14 toe bail is the curly-q type. I remember doing this last year (vaguely, beer involved) that while trying to do this sitting on the couch crampon between knees I nearly emasculated myself and managed to punch ahole in the side of the couch. I know I used vise grips. I just couldn't remember if the springiness of the toe bail was under less pressure when points removed and the bail turned underneath the frame. I'm going to do this in the garage this time with big vise and visegrips and beer and stay away from the couch I actually have more interesting questions for this later, but will start it in its own post.
|
|
|
|
|
go_dyno
Jan 24, 2007, 5:33 AM
Post #10 of 10
(2174 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 193
|
I got a metal plate (beer bottle opener like used in bars) and placed it next to the side of the front points (inside frame) facing the tip/end of the bail wire (to narrow the gap) and then took a big long handled flat head screwdriver and between plate and bail wire tip and levered the flattend tip of the bail wire 2/3s way thru hole where it held itself in place. I then took the vice grip and placed it on the outter side crampon frame between the frame and bail wire bend and easily popped it the rest of the way thru.
To get it to go back thru the holes one side goes in easy then when trying to snap the other side back in I placed the tip in the hole rotated the wire so the flattened tip lines up properly with the oval hole and smacked it with the handle of the screwdriver till it pops thru and wha-lah! its done.
No flesh was skewered in the process. I do believe a vice to hole the crampon would make it even easier.
BY THE WAY GRIVEL'S CUSTOMER SERVICE IS OUTSTANDING !!!
(This post was edited by go_dyno on Jan 24, 2007, 5:34 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
