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pir8penguin
Sep 9, 2002, 3:24 AM
Post #26 of 38
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good call...i thought the southwest was to the anasazi velcro as the mesa was to the lace up.
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bouldertoad
Sep 10, 2002, 2:04 AM
Post #27 of 38
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Just another vote for the Newtons....great in cracks.....and awesome on edges
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bsperes
Sep 13, 2002, 12:29 PM
Post #28 of 38
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grandwall - I have the velcros, a few pairs by this time, and I can stand on virtually anything larger than dust. Yes, the Mesa is GREAT for edging, but I don't feel the need to use a sledge hammer to break in my shoes. That, and the original Q was about an edging and smearing shoe...the velcro covers that better than the Mesa.
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nbrown
Sep 13, 2002, 2:53 PM
Post #29 of 38
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anasazi mesa is an ok shoe but i think i'll stick w/ the velcro anasazi.
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danl
Sep 13, 2002, 3:08 PM
Post #30 of 38
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the lynx by 5.10 was a shoe that could microedge and smear. It had a removable insert that made the shoe stiffer for edging or you could remove it for that soft shoe feel
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grandwall
Sep 13, 2002, 4:25 PM
Post #31 of 38
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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bsperes - you're right, the original post inquired about an edging and smearing shoe and that shoe is not the Mesa. You lose too much sensitivity and cannot effectively smear. I got off topic reading the post that stated that if you want the best edging and smearing shoe, you need two different shoes and was talking about a shoe that I thought would be the BEST at edging. The Velcro would fit the edging/smearing criteria better.
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drdeath
Sep 14, 2002, 2:25 PM
Post #32 of 38
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Registered: Oct 9, 2000
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OK, Newtons seem to have the winning vote. I found a pair of Newton's for $90. I'll let you know what I think.
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karlbaba
Sep 14, 2002, 3:05 PM
Post #33 of 38
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
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Enjoy the Newtons. At least you won't have to spend money resoling them with C4 right away. Some folks say they don't notice the difference but, after doing some comparison on edgey smeary granite slabs, I'm absolutely sold.
I'm a cheap bastard but spend $182 this year getting 5.10 rubber on a bunch of my boreal shoes that had plenty of rubber left
PEace
karl
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ambler
Sep 14, 2002, 5:41 PM
Post #34 of 38
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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Karl is right, Stealth matters. I tried to convince myself it didn't, but finally gave in and put C4 half-soles on some perfectly good Habaneros. A better climber could do the same routes in Tevas, but for me the extra friction is worth it.
[ This Message was edited by: ambler on 2002-10-07 18:10 ]
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billcoe_
Sep 17, 2002, 4:16 AM
Post #35 of 38
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Dr Death:
I'd like to hear how they worked out for you. Note that is you click on the top of the page, the compay supporting RC.com- sportextreme, has the Newton for $84.
I'm thinking of replacing my Borel Fires and Kaukulators with a pair for leading the longer routes, let me know - I'm breathlessly waiting...my friend Dave says we should be able to crank Crimson Cryslis in Red Rocks in between the trade show this November. I guess its about a full day or so of 5.9. Newton sounds like the shoe.
BTW: what have you used previously and what do you like to climb on?
Regards:
Bill
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drdeath
Sep 17, 2002, 5:25 PM
Post #36 of 38
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Registered: Oct 9, 2000
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Yeah, I bought the newtons at sportextreme via rockclimbing.com. Including duties and shipping the price turned out more than $84 but much less than anywhere else.
I'm a 5.10 guy. I currently climb in a pair of Moccasym and an older pair of Huecos. I also use a pair of Scarpa Dominators that are stiffer than my Huecos and do a better job at edging.
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bsperes
Sep 17, 2002, 6:57 PM
Post #37 of 38
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Registered: Aug 29, 2000
Posts: 292
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grandwall...read my last post...it said:
"That, and the original Q was about an edging and smearing shoe...the velcro covers that better than the Mesa."
Thus my original point that the Anasazi velcro is a shoe that will do both well, rather than be best in class.
[ This Message was edited by: bsperes on 2002-09-17 11:57 ]
[ This Message was edited by: bsperes on 2002-09-17 11:58 ]
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phyre
Sep 17, 2002, 7:32 PM
Post #38 of 38
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 120
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I own a pair of 5.10 Newtons and I love them. They edge VERY well and I have never had any problem smearing, even on smooth basalt columns. I highly recommend them.
phyre
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