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bigbouda
Sep 17, 2002, 4:00 PM
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How small is too small?
If you want to go super lightweight,super safe, with minimum gear but still stay "safe", what do you bring along? Whats the smallest amount of gear you've brought up on a mixed/ alipne route?
Cheers!
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rockprodigy
Sep 17, 2002, 4:15 PM
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I climbed the Cassin on Denali with 5 stoppers, a #1 and #2 metolius TCUs and a .5 and .75 BD camalot jr., two ice screws and 4 pitons which I never placed. It was just right. I would leave the pitons next time.
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bradhill
Sep 17, 2002, 6:33 PM
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Well, it depends on the route and rock and conditions, doesn't it?
One trick I use is to I rack up on a spectra daisy chain tied in a loop with 1/2" webbing, so it's light but still lets you keep stuff organized.
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climbchick
Sep 17, 2002, 7:14 PM
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Brad, that is such a good idea that I'm still sitting here gaping. I'm going to try that.
For what it's worth, I've been trying to save weight by buying very light carabiners (OP DOvals -- wiregates -- 37g) and dyneema slings.
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punk
Sep 17, 2002, 7:21 PM
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Brad,
Why u tie it up with the 1/2" use a locking biner and presto if u need an extra runner there u go also if u ware the pack over it u can unscrew the biner and take the whole thing without removing your pack
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mountainmonkey
Sep 17, 2002, 7:53 PM
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hexes, nuts, few light cams, light biners, slings, light rope (9.? single or small twins/doubles). Use the rope+slings for anchor systems. Carry a few cams on the same biner and use one of the runners to clip to the unit. Alpine harness. No pack/light pack. Cheap water bottles (like plastic pop bottles) -nalgenes are expensive and weight slightly more PLUS you can compact the cheap water bottles when empty. No daisy, No gear sling - use regular slings or rack on harness and use the rope to tie into an anchor (clove hitch/figure .
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furryfrisbee
Sep 17, 2002, 8:00 PM
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Brad, I mentioned that Daisy chain idea to my SO, she thought it would be a great "Over the shoulder gear holder, to keep your rack secure!"
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ambler
Sep 17, 2002, 8:49 PM
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Hard to give a serious answer to this question. Or even a much simpler one: "How much gear do you need to lead one pitch?"
Depends on what pitch, what conditions, and on how you climb, doesn't it? Some things you could solo with no gear, others you'd want good anchors and pro every few feet -- and that eats up an awful lot of gear. Your own judgment will be the key to your survival, either way.
[ This Message was edited by: ambler on 2002-10-07 18:08 ]
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bradhill
Sep 17, 2002, 9:25 PM
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One thing to remember is that the REASON to go light when alpining is SPEED because speed=safety. I think some people forget this and go too far towards light as it's own goal. What I mean by this is that some things are "worth their weight in speed". You could rack up on a prussik cord or two and use it later for v-threads. I think, personally, I get more speed advantage out of the organization a daisy provides than I am hampered by the extra few grams it represents. Similarly, a metolius pocket aider, cliffhanger and cam hook, while not essential can more than make up for their weight by letting you quickly bypass difficult sections.
Going light is no good if you go so light that you don't have enough of what you need to move quickly and confidently, surmount problems, or compromise your safety through thoroughly inadequate pro more than you would by spending extra time on the route. You're always doing a balancing act and choosing some degree of risk, just be aware and don't do so foolishly. If the weather's stable or there's a safe way to bail even in a bad storm, don't get yourself killed over 10oz of pro you left behind to be more like Mark Twight. We can learn from those guys to climb better by dropping weight, but not all alpinism needs to push the limits of "extreme".
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bradhill
Sep 17, 2002, 9:42 PM
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So anyway.. the rack is the last, desperate place to save weight. By all means, get spectra slings, light biners, DMM cams, etc.. but chop everything else first before you lose a piece of the rack.
Reduce your clothes, get a light pack and chop the straps, carry less food and eat out of a margarine tub insulated with blue foam, get light boots, get a titanium ice axe, carry a light sleeping bag and pad, get a styrofoam helmet, carry a skinny single rope and bootlace rap cord or skinny twins, get an LED headlamp, trim your first aid kit, forget the '10 essentials', etc... Go lighter everywhere you can without compromising your safety first.
Then, when your pack still weighs Too Damn Much, you can start trimming the rack based on your knowledge of the specific climb.
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beyond_gravity
Sep 17, 2002, 10:05 PM
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is it really worth cutting the sraps off my pack???
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brianthew
Sep 17, 2002, 10:25 PM
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Of course, safety is more important than weight. But make sure you remember that, especially in the case of helemts. Light and fast is definately a good idea, but I'd never wear a styrofoam helmet...the helmet is too critical to skimp on. The "ultralight" helmets are too light, I'd say they are more useful on bikes. Remember, even if your light helmet will take a good hit before deforming, where one rock falls, more will follow. You can't get a new helmet midclimb, so get a bomber one that will take several hits without being destroyed. It will save your life.
Just my $0.02.
[ This Message was edited by: brianthew on 2002-09-17 15:28 ]
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bigbouda
Sep 18, 2002, 3:25 PM
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Thanks guys! I dont think I asked the question specifically enough…it seems workin 9 to 5 is numbing my brain… here goes : What is the minimum gear YOU got away with on mixed alpine climbs…(obviously staying within reasonable safety) BTW I like the daisy chain rack..brilliant !!!
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