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billburning
Sep 17, 2002, 8:03 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 239
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Alright, Secor's guidebook to Orizaba claims that there was a route put up on Orizaba (Mexico) by Barry Blanchard in the 80's. Supposedly it consists of ten pitches of grade 3 ice. I couldn't really find any mention of it on the web except at summitpost.com and it has very little info. Has anyone climbed it? I was down there last winter and didn't see anything of the like, I'm going to be down there again this winter and was wondering if this route forms regularly or has fallen victim to global warming.
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tradguy
Sep 17, 2002, 8:30 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2002
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First problem is that Secor guidebook. I'm not terribly keen on his writing - either the Mexico guide or his Aconcagua book. Both are riddled with errors and omissions. But alas, it's the only one out there, so you take what you can get.
I was there 2 years ago at Thanksgiving time and the route was in. It was also in 2 years prior to that (also at Thanksgiving time). There are actually 2 big ice flows side by side up there in the northwest amphitheater, but I believe one was not continuous last time. I'll check my slides and let you know. I was thinking the climbs looked to be potentially harder than grade 3, though I didn't climb them, so I really can't say. We ended up climbing an unknown route (possibly FA?) to the right of these in the amphitheater.
Take your gear and hike in there. Even if that climb is not in, there are a bunch of other ice flows that would all be really cool - and plenty difficult at 16,000 ft.
Enjoy.
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