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Route setting certification??
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dynov7


Sep 17, 2002, 9:54 AM
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Route setting certification??
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I remember hearing something a while back about a route setting certification class. I dont remember if it was on a national level or not. I've been curious about this for some time. Any information would be appreciated.


dune


Sep 17, 2002, 10:12 AM
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Someone PLEASE respond!

The route setters in my gym could use some help.


Partner jammer


Sep 17, 2002, 10:14 AM
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I'm courious also. When was this thread started?


dynov7


Sep 17, 2002, 10:15 AM
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I just started this thread at about 1 eastern on tues. sept 17...that help?


aarong


Sep 17, 2002, 10:26 AM
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Route setting definently is an art (of sorts). But a certification??? Come'on, give me a break.


Partner jammer


Sep 17, 2002, 10:42 AM
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I meant the statement about hearing something a while back. Did you see it on RC or was it from another converstation you had?


dynov7


Sep 17, 2002, 11:40 AM
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I agree aarong, I'm just lookin for somewhere that i can get some good tips and possibly get a nice little side job.


aarong


Sep 17, 2002, 12:01 PM
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A side job is one thing, a certification is quite another. You don't need to be certified to set routes. It definently helps to have experience setting routes...have you set in other gyms? Have you set routes at home? Also, I think it's good experience to be versatile on many types of rock and be able to climb farily "hard" routes. Although, it doesn't take an expert climber to set hard routes, it does help to know what moves are possible, fluid, and fun.
I would start by setting a couple of routes for the hell-of-it at your local gym, most places will let you. Then discuss a job later.


dynov7


Sep 17, 2002, 12:18 PM
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i have done and can do almost all of the above. However, a couple of gym owners around this area (one in particular) "have all the setters they need". I need a one up on the competition so they will AT LEAST look at the routes i can set. I think i actually like setting almost as much as i do climbing. Hell, i dont even care if i get paid. I'm just kind of sick of the same routes being up for periods of a year or so and not being changed. With winter coming I am going to be regaining gym-rat status and need variety. The gym i speak of has an awesome wall system that has many MANY untapped possibilities. Any further advice?


fiend


Sep 17, 2002, 12:40 PM
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Quote:Route setting definently is an art (of sorts). But a certification??? Come'on, give me a break.

If you want to set for a comp regulated by a climbing organization (ie: ASCF ... if they're still around) then you must be certified by that organization. In Canada I know that there happen to be only 3 setters qualified to set for Nationals... well, there might be more now, but I doubt anyone bothered to go through the process.


dynov7


Sep 17, 2002, 12:49 PM
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Thats the certification i'm talking about. The dude who used to set for my home gym, i believe had a certification to set nationally (at least this is what i was told.) This is what i'm looking into possibly for the future. Thanks...now i know i'm not alone. And as for not wanting to bother going through the certification, There is never a point where you can't learn more.


fiend


Sep 17, 2002, 1:44 PM
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Well, the thing is that you don't learn that much. From what I hear you basically just shadow an already qualified setter for a comp. In order for them to let you shadow them you'd probably already have to have some well known route-setting skills and basically just have to go through the formality of being a slave for the head setter at some comp.


Then again, I have been out of the comp loop for 4 or 5 years now and don't know how anything works anymore


mikedano


Sep 17, 2002, 1:55 PM
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Yeah, I think there is a route setting association/certification process of some kind.
The main route setter at my old gym in Albuquerque, New Mexico said that he had gone through a grueling certification process, which lasted several long days of climbing and route setting. He said he was one of the few certified route setters for the Rocky Mountain region. It's been a while though so I don't remember all the details.
If you're really curious, I would suggest contacting the Access Fund, the new Professional Climbers Association or just calling around to some climbing gyms.


socalbolter


Sep 17, 2002, 2:32 PM
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The only current groups trying to put together a certification program are the ABS and the USSCA. Both have identified the need for some sort of standardization, but as far as I know, no specific program is yet in place.

I would suggest contacting the ABS through their website (rockcomps.com). The organizer of the ABS (scott rennak) is very connected and this is one of his projects.

good luck!



aarong


Sep 24, 2002, 6:37 PM
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I understand there ARE certifications out there, however, I disagree with the fact that they exist. Experience counts. There are more route setters out there who are not "certified" that are great at it...they don't need a certification.


dynov7


Sep 25, 2002, 6:26 PM
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Yes there are good setters out there that are not certified. But there are MANY that would benefit from something like this. I'm not saying that someone should be certified to set. I am simply inquiring about information on the process.


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