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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 12:20 AM
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I think I'm pretty fearless when it comes to most things.
Except lead climbing. I really don't enjoy being on "the sharp end" although I'll do it. I get no more enjoyment out of leading a climb then I do TR'ing it. This is great for my male partners because they all fight to lead and I jump to clean, but I also can't help feeling like a wuss because I don't have the same desire to lead.
Reasons behind it? I hate falling. Also, I love doing a climb uninterrupted by having to place gear. Just flow....
I've found the a lot of the same situation when talking to some female climbing partners.
How about you guys? Do you like to lead?
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froggy
Sep 18, 2002, 12:24 AM
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Hi Erica,
Regarding leading.. It is scary and I have had my own battles.. I have not taken a fall yet (maybe holding back a bit). Even though I have been close to falling many times I find while on lead I push myself harder because of that fear, maybe?. I have come to realize in 1 year and 6 months of climbing through many different stages that it is not about what accomplishments you can say you have done it is about accomplishing things inside of you.
So if you don't want to lead, come out to L.A. and I will lead, k? No worries at all - Just have fun, k? Climb for your own accomplishments
~Sara
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 12:28 AM
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Aw Sara...ya done did it now. I'm adding Malibu Creek and New Jack's to my Road Trip Calendar
Honestly, I may lead more if I was climbing with women. Being a wuss if front of a guy is one thing. Being a wuss in front of climber chicks in a no go.
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missedyno
Sep 18, 2002, 12:33 AM
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when i started to lead, i was pretty gutsy... lead indoors, lead outdoors... but had never taken a decent fall outdoors. my first fall screwed up my headspace sooo much that i didn't lead for about 6 months.
it's just now that i'm leading without so much fear.
fall. ya gotta do it. fall fall fall.
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jules
Sep 18, 2002, 12:35 AM
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I'm nearly fearless
From what little leading I've done... I love it.
I took a 13-ft fall the first time I lead (indoors, though). Scary, yet fun.
Not afraid of falling.
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jbone
Sep 18, 2002, 12:35 AM
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Leading Suxs. To much techinical crap with worrying about a rope and then a Belayer.
I would rather solo then lead but I will lead if I have too it's a chore though..
Highball Bouldering solves all Issues.
JBone
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paintinhaler
Sep 18, 2002, 12:39 AM
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Leading is like a drug.
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froggy
Sep 18, 2002, 12:41 AM
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Sounds good Erica I don't know about New Jack's though... Don't really like it there (no offense Jack).. But, I would do J-Tree with you... Sound good?
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deafclimber
Sep 18, 2002, 12:41 AM
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yes ! i love to lead ! no question..
[edit:]oops i am in wrong room ! sorry, chicks
[ This Message was edited by: deafclimber on 2002-09-17 17:52 ]
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 12:42 AM
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Exactly my point. Men love leading (for the most part).
Am I the only women that does it out of necessity?
~Erica
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froggy
Sep 18, 2002, 12:44 AM
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Oh and regarding the falling.. I have done the intentional fall at the gym and almost fell three times on lead last Saturday on gear.. I am going to keep the fear there to push me forward and when my first fall comes I will welcome it (hopefully with no pain)with open arms
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missedyno
Sep 18, 2002, 12:45 AM
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no, i love to lead. i find i climb better when i'm on lead. and you don't have to try to move around the rope at the top when you're on TR....
love love love leading....
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graniterat
Sep 18, 2002, 12:47 AM
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I actually began to lead about a year ago and I was doing pretty good, then I took a lead class and that screwed up my lead head . Now I'm slowly going back to it and I really love it, however the only thing that stops me from progressing is that I have not taken a fall.....nor do I want to. Lead is where is at for me, and doing trad is the best.
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 12:51 AM
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froggy~you're on. This winter? A bunch of us are heading out there for New Year's.
ski~good advice. Thanks.
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indigo_nite
Sep 18, 2002, 12:55 AM
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I like to lead. I need to get more experience with it and especially with doing walk-offs. I have a weird phobia of going down a hill and go very slow but feel I can get much better with practice and confidence.
I like putting together anchors because it's improvisational, technical, and creative.
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climbchick
Sep 18, 2002, 12:56 AM
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I love to lead, but I go for routes that are well within my abilities. There's no way I'd lead something if I thought it was more than likely that I would fall.
Despite knowing how fantastic it feels to onsight something, I will still talk myself out of doing it sometimes, just because of some vague irrational fear . . . . I have to be in the right frame of mind, and the sun has to be shining, and I have to have the right partner, who gives me lots of positive energy Once I start climbing though, the fears usually vanish right away and I don't go overboard with the pro or anything.
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 1:03 AM
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Hmmm...Yvette struck something. Everything I try to lead is usually at my limit (5.10+). I may try and try to lead some super easy stuff to regain my lead head.
Thanks, girlie!
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frawg
Sep 18, 2002, 1:04 AM
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I lead every chance I get. I love the rush. The falling isn't so bad on extremely overhangishly crazy routes. In fact, (and this is all subjective) it's extremely fun.
Peaze
Frawg
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froggy
Sep 18, 2002, 1:24 AM
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I will be there Erica... looking forward to it
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 3:05 AM
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Ski~
Simma don na!
I wasn't implying that women can't or don't like to lead. I said I didn't and knew other women that didn't like to either. Hence the post....to inquire.
~Erica
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hawk233
Sep 18, 2002, 3:30 AM
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Trad lead scares me, sport lead does not.
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cragchica
Sep 18, 2002, 4:36 AM
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I love leading!
...but most of my friends/climbing partners just say that's because I'm crazy. (I also enjoy free-soloing chimneys in pursuit of a good pic every now and then... but that's another story )
Climbing becomes so much more exciting when I'm on the sharp end ! Top-roping just doesn't do much for me.
As sport goes, I'll give pretty much anything a shot. Even if I back down after a bolt or two, at least I know I've tried. If I get sketched, I always have the opportunity to come back down (though the thought of leaving gear usually proves to be quite a motivator).
I ADORE leading trad (maybe it's the novelty that comes with a new skill, or maybe I just like to play with toys more than the average girl)... but I do have a sense of self-preservation that gives me a pit in my stomach at the thought of a 5.9/5.10 gear lead.
I happy to say that I am beginning to develop a sense of fear that I lacked entirely when I first started climbing. By my third time on the rock, seeing a friend do his first lead on something that I had just free-soloed, I was quite disappoitned to be shot down when I suggested leading something myself. A few falls later, I have a little better idea of what I am and am not willing to risk. A few feet onto a bolt - no biggie... Dropping onto a TCU after a 20 ft run-out - that's a little scarier.
[ This Message was edited by: cragchica on 2002-09-17 21:39 ]
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chuckd278
Sep 18, 2002, 4:37 AM
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I love to trad lead but i always do it at two grade levels lower than what i am climbing at the time on top rope with out falls. I like to do long moderate routes in the 5.5 to 5.9 range. This way I can take in a little of whats around me and not fight the pitch all the way up. It's also good to help out your partner on those 8, 10, 12 pitch climbs. Don't let it play head games with you. As long as you place your gear right and climb within your abilities you will have fun doing it.
Chuck
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camhead
Sep 18, 2002, 5:55 AM
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Erica, I can totally relate to your gear-placing sentiments. Especially on cracks, nothing interrupts the flow and unhindered movement of a climb like stopping and placing every ten feet. Of course, following interrupts the flow as well.
In order to really enjoy the uninterrupted, aesthetic flow of a good crack, one has two options: toperoping or freesoloing. I think I know which option most of us would go with.
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climberchic
Sep 18, 2002, 6:09 AM
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I don't feel nearly able enough to solo, so I am forced to TR to maintain the flow.
Or....
Boulder! Yeah...that's the ticket
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