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xtrmecat
Jan 11, 2007, 12:46 AM
Post #26 of 37
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
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Thanks Stymingersfink, I do not really give a rat ____ who says what about my style. I'm not in it to get points with the climbing police. Solo, no solo, I do not care what anyone else classifies the ascent as. The climb and I will work out the details, pure or not. Just have the most awesome climb to datefor me. I even think with the grub and water gone one trip down hill, will certainly be a long one, will get it all down.
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I know it will happen if I give it my best. I now have enough info to give it a go.
Bob
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brutusofwyde
Jan 17, 2007, 1:52 AM
Post #27 of 37
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xtrmecat wrote: Thanks Stymingersfink, I do not really give a rat ____ who says what about my style. Bob
Glad to hear that my advice won't be a bummer for you then:
Yah, soloing one of the most crowded wall routes in the Valley, and taking a long time to do it... that's a REAL good idea. 
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xtrmecat
Jan 18, 2007, 12:17 PM
Post #28 of 37
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I do not recall naming the route. Must be running on assumptions, huh? Gotta love the net, ask for ideas and only seeing one or two that see the questions, all the rest seem to want to make judgements and give advice, "too much for you", "Poor choice for first grade???". Just wanted to find a lumping service or an idea on how not to get my rack stolen/soft goods eaten by packrats or mice, and not have my haulbag tore to shit by a bear looking for a meal.
I've survived almost 50 years of outdoor playing in some pretty wild environments. Don't need another mother, just wanted experience on how to get it done in a non remote, but commited local with the modern world morals and the smartest black bears on the planet. Not looking for critics of my goals and objectives.
If I take too long for you maybe you can pass. I would never let a bad attitude or huge ego pass though as that could get me killed. No problem with real people though. Maybe I have done some climbing and can even keep up with free parties on 7 pitch climbs and even have time for my lunch while waiting at belays.
Not exactly my first rodeo. Just the biggest.
Bob
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pmyche
Jan 18, 2007, 3:33 PM
Post #29 of 37
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
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asuclimber
Jan 18, 2007, 4:16 PM
Post #30 of 37
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Shuttle water and gear up first in several trips. Stash/hide it well. Then, on your last trip, haul your food up. Try to make it up early enough on your last trip to get your food up the wall a little(Lead/haul first pitch). Otherwise, fix a line from the first anchor in advance and jug your food bag up 15 ft whenever you want to keep it away from bears. In the morning jug it down to pack, or whatever.
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holdplease2
Jan 20, 2007, 6:12 PM
Post #31 of 37
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Don't leave your food on the ground for even the first lead. In fact, I had a bear attack my bag, mid day, between the time I started jugging my fixed line up one pitch and started the haul. He/she literally held onto my bag as it was starting to leave the ground. I thought it was stuck and hauled all the harder till I figured out what happened.
And about stashing your rack? Don't even tell anyone you're stashing a rack anywhere near the base of your route. I had a friend working on an FA on Falls wall...super out of the way. He told folks he was stashing/fixing/climbing and people went up and stole all of his gear. Definately climbers, and a wall that nobody was climbing. They just wanted gear bad enough to hike far to get it.
-Kate.
(This post was edited by holdplease2 on Jan 20, 2007, 6:17 PM)
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justsendingits
Feb 4, 2007, 5:17 AM
Post #32 of 37
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you should have no problem retaining sherpa's to shlef loads in C4, up and down.
Do the death slabs with 50lb loads and it won't be too bad.
I did an assited solo of Zenith, had help with the shlefing and a belay on the first few pithces to get me going. I needed it, my only other wall solo was the reg on LT before I did Zenith.
You can get water at the base of the reg on HD all year long most of the time, bring a filter, I got sick from the water.
If you are doing Tis sac make sure and bring bolt's or rivets, the rivet ladder is true mank! And on the last pitch follow the brown tie offs, there are multiple sucker lines.
3 ropes is fine, fix and drop one if u want.
Not a whole lot of traffic up on HD other than the reg
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billcoe_
Feb 7, 2007, 2:01 AM
Post #33 of 37
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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holdplease2 wrote: Don't leave your food on the ground for even the first lead. In fact, I had a bear attack my bag, mid day, between the time I started jugging my fixed line up one pitch and started the haul. He/she literally held onto my bag as it was starting to leave the ground. I thought it was stuck and hauled all the harder till I figured out what happened.
Yup: @10 years ago or so - my buddy Mike Jackson decided that they would sleep at the base the night before and fire off early. As they got to the base late, he took the food and used it as a pillow to keep the bears away (instead of hauling it up off the deck). Middle of the night, he has a sensation of his head being unsupported by anything but still floating. Until gravity took hold, his head hit the ground. Aa he groggilly comes too in the pitch black, he realises a bear had pulled the bag with all the food in it right out from under his head.
holdplease2 wrote: And about stashing your rack? Don't even tell anyone you're stashing a rack anywhere near the base of your route. I had a friend working on an FA on Falls wall...super out of the way. He told folks he was stashing/fixing/climbing and people went up and stole all of his gear. Definately climbers, and a wall that nobody was climbing. They just wanted gear bad enough to hike far to get it. -Kate.
Yup, roy hinkley is on the slackline thread saying that would be a good thing as it's picking up trash. There are all kinds of bastards out there. People just need to leave others stuff alone.
Anyway-
I had 2 friends just hire mules and it worked great.
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sspssp
Feb 9, 2007, 12:19 AM
Post #34 of 37
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Don't even leave a haul bag that doesn't have food in it at the base. A bear will rip it up just to check it out.
Cary all the nonfood items up and stash them loose out of sight. Loose means that a bear can nose around through it (without ripping anything up) and realize there is no food.
As others have said, carry food (and the haul bag) up last. Or stash just the food part 20 feet or so up a route on the cliff (bears can get amazingly high when food is involved). It is possible that someone would rip off your food bag, but I doubt it.
HD isn't too bad in June, but it is still pretty hot from 2:00 on. Any earlier in the year and you are taking a bigger chance of getting hit with rain (if you are planning on a week trip). The spring might be running in Sept, but wouldn't count on it. By late May/June there will be a well worn trail through the snow, if any on the shoulder. It slows you down a bit, but not a big deal.
The only HD route I've done is the regular, this would be difficult to haul without a partner to steer the bag, don't know about the others.
The top of HD is pretty big, but there isn't going to be any good places to stash stuff until you get all the stuff down the cable and off the shoulder.
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justsendingits
Feb 9, 2007, 5:04 AM
Post #35 of 37
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you could always leave a bag hanging from the last pitch and come back later and get it.
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iamthewallress
Feb 9, 2007, 6:07 AM
Post #36 of 37
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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fwiw as of last summer there was a high line that seemed to be semi-permenantly installed for the purposes of helping folks keep bears out of their stuff as it's pretty common for folks to bivy at the base before and after climbing the rnwf in a day. I think it's a good use of fixed rope considering...
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xtrmecat
Feb 16, 2007, 9:15 PM
Post #37 of 37
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
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Thanks folks, I have a filter and it looks like it will take at least two others to schep loads and get off the deck. I should be able to get it down in one trip as far as Little Yosemite CG and stash with the rangers there for one day. Sorry to hear about theft of stashed gear, guess I come from a rare place that when gear is found it is usually left and then noted on a bulletin board to find the owner. Kind of assumed that todays ethics with climbers, especially dedicated wall rats were more traditional/honest.
I was there in 05 and learned of the bear issues and am savy to this but with no good options I will just have to attempt an expedition style start.
When you say bring bolts and rivets,just a few or a pitch worth? How manky is mank? Do not mind the work but it would suck to rap out because I did not bring enough rivets.
Would people respect my ropes if I fixed three or four pitches, left for two days and came back and then take off? I may be able to pull that off solo. Just need someone to help get the bag off the ground before Yogi showed up.
Man logistics are always the crux. Doing a major 9 day trip up here this July and my details never change but partners and their gear just cannot seem to be very reliable(fear and injury have changed details several times and it is 6 months off). Maybe this will be solo also.
Again thanks all, and you'll be getting more questions the closer it gets to the trip.
Bob
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