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Im getting bored...
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a-dog


Feb 6, 2007, 8:21 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Im getting bored...
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After spending years doing trad, alpine, and ice, I decided to dive into aid climbing by climbing any single pitch aid route that I came accross in a guidebook or from just looking around. Seeing as I am in San Diego, there really aren't any aid climbs much longer than 50 or 60 feet. So what is the next step? I know I am not ready for something like Leaning Tower, which is my future goal. I am looking for something in the 2-4 pitch range. Also, since I will most likely be soloing, I want something with fairly low complexity and commitment to start with. All the guidebooks that I have list all the great grade V and VI climbs that I am sure are great, but not for me yet. I would love to find a climb in Yosemite that I can practice on, but will not be too busy. I know that some people only climb a few pitches of the big climbs and bail so they don't spend days on the wall. Maybe I should look into this? Can anybody out there please help me out? Thanks.


Partner holdplease2


Feb 7, 2007, 1:51 PM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
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Re: [a-dog] Im getting bored... [In reply to]
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Well, from the stand point of aid leading, if you've done 10 pitches you already have more experience than most people who summit Leaning Tower. So good on you for getting things dialed in.

But what else makes a wall different from practicing single pitch stuff?

Hauling: Go haul a bag of rocks from the top of a single pitch climb. Dock the pig to the station. See if you can open and close the pig, etc. Figure out how to manage the rope during the haul. (If you're solo and you don't already know about it, look up the far-end hauler online...)

Cleaning: Be sure to lead some traversing/overhanging stuff and clean it. Especially if you are going to climb WFLT. The most miserable cleaning experience I've ever had. ;)

Endurance: Can you lead/clean lead/clean lead/clean three pitches back to back? Give it a try and see what happens to your pace and water consupation. You can do this just aiding some 5.10 or 5.11 cracks.

Time Allocation: Do you know how long it takes you to lead a pitch? To clean a pitch? To re-rack and do a changeover? Seriously time yourself, so that when the end of the day creeps up on you on a walll, you have a feel for whether you shold take the next step or call it a day. Also, this will help you plan your wall in terms of fixed pitches and numbers of days.

Real Lead Load: Make sure you're climbing with the full weight you will carry when leading. Including haul line, tag line, aid rack, anchor kit, whatever. This will ensure you that you are in good enough shape to climb at your target pace.

Regarding 2-3 pitch aid climbs, I don't know of any other than organasm in Zion. It has a roof and is low traffic, so that might be good for you.

But really...practice a coupla the things listed above and give your wall a go. Try for non-crowded times, like week days, and plan to take a day longer to get off the ground than expected. Don't let running out of time/food/water be a reason to bail.

Anyhow, I hope this helps and that you get on your wall sooner, rather than later!

:)

-Kate.


Partner climbinginchico


Feb 7, 2007, 7:28 PM
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Re: [holdplease2] Im getting bored... [In reply to]
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^^Listen to this woman. She's awesome, and really knows her stuff!


skinner


Feb 8, 2007, 2:04 PM
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Re: [holdplease2] Im getting bored... [In reply to]
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Kate, that's some of the best advice I've heard in awhile, especially the "Go haul a bag of rocks".
If there's one thing I hear most people complain/bitch/whine about, it's how they never expected hauling to be so much work.

-Kevin


Partner holdplease2


Feb 8, 2007, 5:03 PM
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Re: [skinner] Im getting bored... [In reply to]
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Thank you, Kevin...but just so you know, I got the "haul a bag of rocks" from PTPP posts when I was learing how to haul. Same way I learned just about everything else.

:)

-Kate.


flamer


Feb 8, 2007, 7:24 PM
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Re: [holdplease2] Im getting bored... [In reply to]
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holdplease2 wrote:
The most miserable cleaning experience I've ever had. ;)


It's a good thing the company was so good.;)

josh


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