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steveroman
Feb 7, 2007, 7:48 PM
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I'm going to Smith Rock for the first time during Spring Break and starting to get excited. I was told to definetly do this route Zebra-Zion. So I was just checking out the guide and there's no route called "Zebra-Zion." There's several "Zebra" variations and there's "Zion" which sounds cool. Is "Zebra Zion" a popular linkup of the best bits? I'm sure we can get beta when we get there but any help now would be great.
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112
Feb 7, 2007, 7:52 PM
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Which guide do you have?
They are 2 diffrent climbs, and yes it is a link-up. Watts spells it out in his guide book.
Have fun!
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steveroman
Feb 7, 2007, 8:24 PM
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I have the Watts guide. There is no route called "Zebra Zion" in this guide.
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matttt
Feb 7, 2007, 8:35 PM
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couple options for the first pitch. it is really good.
smithrock.com should have good beta.
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gorgeous
Feb 7, 2007, 9:15 PM
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Zion is the linkup of Zebra and Lions Chair. This is what you are looking for. For some reason, it is commonly referred to as Zebra/Zion but it is really just Zion. Have fun.
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112
Feb 7, 2007, 9:17 PM
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steveroman wrote: I have the Watts guide. There is no route called "Zebra Zion" in this guide.
I said they are 2 diffrent routes and it is a link-up. Do you need the link-up written as a seperate route? I hope not.
Read each description, it is all there:
Zebra to predistal. Unprotected 5.easy traverse. Finish up Zion.
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rockprodigy
Feb 7, 2007, 9:49 PM
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I don't see why you have to be such an ass to this guy. You must be a Smith local...go back to your perpetual projecting of Churning and leave this guy alone.
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gorgeous
Feb 7, 2007, 10:24 PM
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In reply to: Do you need the link-up written as a seperate route?
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112
Feb 7, 2007, 10:35 PM
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gorgeous wrote: In reply to: Do you need the link-up written as a seperate route? Since the linkup is more popular than the original routes (as complete climbs), it is written up as a separate route and has its own name: Zion. The confusion of the original poster is simply because common parlance has essentially renamed the route "Zebra/Zion"
Don't do the Zion original start unless you plan on crossing about 5 lines. If you can't do the Zebra direct start you have no buisness in the dihedral (or next to it).
I don't have my Watts guide on me, so if I am giving some mis-information I appoligize.
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112
Feb 7, 2007, 10:41 PM
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rockprodigy wrote: I don't see why you have to be such an ass to this guy. You must be a Smith local...go back to your perpetual projecting of Churning and leave this guy alone.
I didn't think I was an ass, but his statements were not consistent with what I wrote.
No Smith local here - 6 hours away. I have never tried any of the 'Churnings', and don't plan to.
I thought I gave enough beta while still leaving a bit of mystery. I guess a step by step guide would have been prefered.
OP you got enough info yet?
rockprodigy, I know who you are, and you ARE a badass. I truly didn't mean to offend, sorry.
-Ken
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konaboy
Feb 8, 2007, 12:20 AM
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I've heard excellent things about Zebra Zion from my friends that have done the line. And ignore 112 about only getting on the climb using the original start. You can climb gumby (.10b) and veer right to the anchors you will need, or if there isn't much traffic on the wall you can just follow the hueco's (.easy) over and up to the anchors.
If you dig face climbs, there's another line called Zion Lion just to the right of the second pitch detailed in the above picture link. We usually climb gumby, veer right to anchors on right of the dihedral, and then climb the right face (.10c) up to next set of anchors (2x60m rap back down). I enjoyed the climb so much this past weekend I did it twice, definitely give it a look see! Enjoy Smith, it's incredible out there.
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112
Feb 8, 2007, 12:34 AM
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konaboy wrote: or if there isn't much traffic on the wall you can just follow the hueco's (.easy) over and up to the anchors.
That sounds like the original start.
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konaboy
Feb 8, 2007, 12:45 AM
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Ah, yes, you said one thing and I read another. My mistake. 
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rockprodigy
Feb 8, 2007, 1:19 AM
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112 wrote: No Smith local here - 6 hours away. I have never tried any of the 'Churnings', and don't plan to. .... rockprodigy, I know who you are, and you ARE a badass. I truly didn't mean to offend, sorry. -Ken
I accept your apology...I probably jumped to conclusions. I've had bad experiences with the Smith "locals", so I'm a little trigger happy about it.
Just be nice.
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david_smithrock
Feb 8, 2007, 1:50 AM
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steveroman wrote: I'm going to Smith Rock for the first time during Spring Break and starting to get excited. I was told to definetly do this route Zebra-Zion. So I was just checking out the guide and there's no route called "Zebra-Zion." There's several "Zebra" variations and there's "Zion" which sounds cool. Is "Zebra Zion" a popular linkup of the best bits? I'm sure we can get beta when we get there but any help now would be great.
A great route. If you don't mind some mildly sketchy/bouldery 11a, do the Zebra Direct start, then link through the 2nd pitch dihedral (10a) to a nice belay ledge. That gets you off the popular first pitch anchors, and also gives you a nice non-hanging belay. The dihedral pitch isn't too bad. To give you an idea, maybe go to the southern tip and get on "Kunza Corner" (10a), or drop by the Mesa Verde and do "Trezlar" (10a) both dihedrals.
The third (your second) pitch, is an easy 5.8 hand crack that leads to a sketchy/loose but easy 5.6 traverse into a slabby thin crack. It's easy to climb past the traverse, as the exit spot out of the crack isn't obvious. Just keep your eyes open out right for chalk, about 10 feet above a little rest alcove. After traversing right unprotected for maybe 15 feet, head into the thin crack that goes up and right. Takes mainly small cams and nuts, a medium cam or two, and a pink tricam comes in handy. Be really careful on this pitch!
The last pitch, the "Zion" pitch, is a lot easier than it looks from down low. The starting traverse is the crux, but there are bomber jams and hidden jugs once you get in the crack. Be a little careful of the fragile rock up there. It always seems to hold, but always makes me wonder. Takes medium to large hand sized cams. I usually place a bomber piece at the top of the crack and then traverse left along the ledge to a belay stance under the final short section.
Then finish up the 20 foot easy section to belay bolts at the top.
We have a pretty good pic of the route and some info on our website athttp://www.smithrockclimbingguides.com, under "guided climbing" I believe.
Hope that helps. Feel free to PM me anytime.
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dfinnecy
Feb 8, 2007, 12:20 PM
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When I did it we did Gumby to get into the dihedral. Don't do the lame traverse from way out right, you'll just annoy eveyone lining up for bolt clipping on the routes you cross.
The dihedral is classic, the loose face above is sooper easy but a little unnerving, and the last pitch as I remember it is a little muscly but not bad, great exposure tho! yikes!
Is Smith still the same zoo it was back in the mid-late-90s? I miss that place,...
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steveroman
Feb 9, 2007, 4:10 AM
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Thanks, that answers my question
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