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hexes or tricams for sandstone
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swervin


Feb 10, 2007, 2:10 PM
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hexes or tricams for sandstone
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All of my climbing experience consists of toprope/sport climbing on sandstone. I build my toprope anchors by slinging trees this limits the routes I am able to set up a anchor on. I would like to start setting anchors using passive pro so which would you suggest tricams/hexes?


Partner epoch
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Feb 10, 2007, 2:38 PM
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Re: [swervin] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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How hard is the sandstone that you'll be working with?

Where are you climbing at?


zuegma


Feb 10, 2007, 2:55 PM
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Re: [epoch] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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I would go with the hexes. they will distribute the force over a larger area of the rock, compared to the tip of a tricam. this will reduce the chance of the piece failing. hexes might also be cheaper


vegastradguy


Feb 10, 2007, 6:01 PM
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Re: [zuegma] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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zuegma wrote:
I would go with the hexes. they will distribute the force over a larger area of the rock, compared to the tip of a tricam. this will reduce the chance of the piece failing. hexes might also be cheaper

this is only an issue if the rock is sugar. if its climbable, you shouldnt need to worry about gear failing-- and if you do, you shouldnt be climbing it.

my advice would be whichever the locals find to suit the rock better. huecos and the like tend to like tricams while cracks tend to take either (although most would use a hex or a cam rather than buy the tricams at that size).

that said--- most tricam users dont use the big ones- the smallest three or four tend to be the most popular for most climbers. so, generally speaking, hexes (or cams) are preferred in the hand to fist size.


microbarn


Feb 10, 2007, 6:57 PM
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Re: [zuegma] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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ignore this:
zuegma wrote:
they will distribute the force over a larger area of the rock, compared to the tip of a tricam. this will reduce the chance of the piece failing. hexes might also be cheaper

What is wrong with nuts? Nuts are easier to place as a beginner and they are typically cheaper unless you get the set.

hexes, tricams, and nuts would all be good options depending on the area and climbs you want to go to.


(This post was edited by microbarn on Feb 10, 2007, 6:58 PM)


reno


Feb 11, 2007, 3:59 AM
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Re: [swervin] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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What kind of sandstone?

North Georgia's hard-as-a-bullet sandstone? Eldo's middle-of-the-road sandstone? Fisher Tower's might-as-well-be-kitty-litter sandstone?


toeknee


Feb 11, 2007, 5:37 AM
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Re: [reno] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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reno wrote:
What kind of sandstone?

North Georgia's hard-as-a-bullet sandstone? Eldo's middle-of-the-road sandstone? Fisher Tower's might-as-well-be-kitty-litter sandstone?

Good question. And while we're naming names, don't forget the Seneca Rocks "Tuscarora Sandstone" - geologists call it sandstone, but it's so metamorphized the average person wouldn't call it sandstone.


Adk


Feb 11, 2007, 8:55 AM
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Re: [toeknee] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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...and while we are naming sandstones, don't forget the Grenville Sandstone of the Adirondacks.
Very common to the Indian Lake area.

Tri cams are probably the best here though the situation will dictate a tri or hex. It's really hard to make such a generalization.

edited for slow finger screw-ups Shocked


(This post was edited by Adk on Feb 11, 2007, 6:56 PM)


deadhorse


Feb 12, 2007, 2:08 AM
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Re: [Adk] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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i started using passive gear for TR anchors before I started trad and I see where you'rre coming from. you should figure out what kind of features you'll be using to build you anchors to dictate what to buy. As has been stated, if it's hand/fist its going to be hexes most likely. But if there are lots of constricting cracks you should opt for nuts. you really only need tri cams in spots where nuts won't really work. Nuts were the first thing i learned to set and they are very friendly.
good luck


swervin


Feb 12, 2007, 2:58 PM
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Re: [epoch] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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The sandstone I climb on is located in southeastern Ohio. Yea that's right we have a few crag's here in SOhio. The sandstone here ranges from rock hard to damp choss due to the many springs in the area.
I already have a set of metolius nuts that I'm looking to expand on since many of the features of the area range from handcrack to fist in size.


pastprime


Feb 13, 2007, 12:01 PM
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Re: [swervin] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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I use and like both a lot, but I'd say for toprope anchors, if I only had one or the other I'd go for hexes. Tricams will go in tricky placements where nothing else will, but you are rarely stuck with that situation for a toprope anchor. Where the anchor is out of sight so you can't keep an eye on it, and the rope is shaking and moving around, I can set a good hex in a way I have total faith it cannot be moved, more easily than I can a tricam.
Tri's are of course better in horizontal cracks, if that is all you have.
You can get along ok with either one, probably, but I'd have more faith in a hex I hadn't seen for a while than I would a tri.
As an aside, I have used, and become emotionally bonded to, Hexcentrics, now of BD, for decades, but recently started using Rockcentrics, and absolutely love them. They are lighter, go well into more places, and are noticeably more secure once in place.
My beloved Hexcentrics have been retired to the box of honor.


microbarn


Feb 13, 2007, 12:45 PM
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Re: [swervin] hexes or tricams for sandstone [In reply to]
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swervin wrote:
I already have a set of metolius nuts that I'm looking to expand on since many of the features of the area range from handcrack to fist in size.

Then it is a no brainer choice: Hexes

They cover the large range, and tricams are usually favored for smaller sizes only.

With the few crags I am aware of in SE Ohio, there are trees around. What is wrong with using webbing? Here in SW PA I can protect any climb around this area with two 50 ft pieces of webbing. This is cheaper, more versatile, and has multiple uses. I also feel that anchors from trees are easier to check.


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