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neuro-kid
Feb 11, 2007, 10:00 PM
Post #1 of 16
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Registered: Dec 23, 2006
Posts: 16
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Hi all,
I just got my first sizable check from work, and am ready to start building a trad rack.
It will be used almost exclusively in the Gunks, since I'm young and that's where I'm located.
So, naturally, I have a few questions debido a que no conozco a nadie que tiene un trad rack.
I would like to buy pieces that will protect me now on easier leads at a reasonable price, but will supplement a full set of cams later on.
What I'm Thinking About:
Nuts- How many, and what brand?
Hexes- Again, I want these pieces to be usable in the future, so I don't want a full set. I've heard good things about the WC RockCentrics, what sizes are most serviceable?
Tricams- I plan on getting 2 pink, a red, and a purple (CAMP). Thoughts?
SLCDs- I'm on a budget here, but want to get comfortable using cams. I know C4s are the mainstay of mamy climber's racks, but the costs are slightly prohibitive. With a Gunks tieoff, though, I have heard great things about the less expensive WC forged friends.
Thoughts?
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gunkmaster
Feb 11, 2007, 10:27 PM
Post #3 of 16
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 4
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Nuts: you'll need a full set at least. I use black diamond but im sure other brands work just as well. I also supplement the smaller sized with RP's and BD micro stoppers. They come in handy on a few routes.
Hexes: Hexes are basically useless at the gunks. Some people carry them but I never see them placed. I do not have a set and I have never found myself wishing I had some.
Tricams: These are a Gunks must. They work extremely well in the weird places where nothing else will fit. I would recomend two pinks and at least one of all the other sizes up to purple i think it is...or maybe blue. I forget.
SLCDs: I started with Black Diamond camalots and they have never let me down. They are very stable and get stuck less than some other brands that I have used. I would recomend .75 up to 3. for starters. later on add a 4 and a .5 in the smaller sizes I love aliens. to start with i would advise yellow, grey, and red, but this should eventually grow to include all the sizes down to black. I now climb with a set of doubles up to number three because of a few close calls but stick to the easier stuff and you wont need doubles. I hope this helped. Enjoy the rack...the gunks are the best.
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tradrenn
Feb 11, 2007, 10:48 PM
Post #4 of 16
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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Nuts- Set of BD ( #4 to #13) with doubles in #6, 7, 8.
Hexes- Don't bother.
Tricams- 2 pink, 2 red, 1 brown from Camp
Cams- Aliens Green to Gray, C4 from .75 and up.
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zuegma
Feb 11, 2007, 11:03 PM
Post #5 of 16
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Registered: May 9, 2006
Posts: 125
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for the stoppers go with the ABC Huevos from http://www.gearexpress.com they pretty much the exact same thing as the BD ones except they are anodized differently and cost less for a full set
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kevinheiss
Feb 12, 2007, 3:05 AM
Post #6 of 16
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Registered: Apr 26, 2004
Posts: 272
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Here is what I would get but don't forget when it comes to cams, it is all about preferrence.
Nuts- BD (full set)
Hexes- like people already said, no need
Tricams- Good bang for you buck (even if I don'T use them)
SLCDs- Metolius (blue-red), BD (0.75-3)
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nedsurf
Feb 12, 2007, 3:14 AM
Post #7 of 16
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Registered: Nov 9, 2004
Posts: 387
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Here we go with the hex bashing again.(pun intended) Last time I led High E, I committed to passive pro only; Just hexes, nuts and tricams. Yes, the hexes were used. The last pitch has that good place for a hex placement bout 2/3 the way up. Directessima also had a couple good hex spots just to name another route that takes hexes. I like and use hexes for the gunks. I also like tricams, aliens and camalots to #3.  Smileys/huevos are just as good as BD nuts. Metolius nuts bite into the rock really well.
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granite_grrl
Feb 12, 2007, 12:30 PM
Post #8 of 16
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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I don't bother to bring my hexes to the Gunks.
At least one set of nuts, with doubles in the BD 6-8 or 9. Offset nuts are amzing in pin scars if you can find them.
Tri-cams; 2 pink, 1-2 red and a brown is good.
You will also need a good amount of extendable runners, and you'll be clipping pins so you may consider at least a couple of screamers.
I've used the DMM Revolvers in the Gunks and they're amazing! I've linked so many wandering pitches with these that I couldn't have otherwise.
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brent_e
Feb 12, 2007, 6:50 PM
Post #9 of 16
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
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if you can get a set of HB aluminum offsets I found they worked well there!
Brent
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lucander
Feb 12, 2007, 7:22 PM
Post #10 of 16
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Registered: Jul 2, 2003
Posts: 274
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Welcome to the club.
Gunks Starter Rack
Climb easy routes with 10 stoppers, 5 tricams and get really good at passive pro.
Kick it up with a single set of cams. I used Black Diamond, .5 (purple), .75 (green), 1 (red), 2 (yellow) and 3 (blue). After one trip I bought three aliens: green, yellow, and red.
Don't forget that you'll want somewhere between 12-20 carabiners, 6-12 foot long runners, and maybe one or two double length runners.
Best,
David
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Dillbag
Feb 12, 2007, 7:53 PM
Post #11 of 16
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Registered: Feb 9, 2007
Posts: 93
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Neuro...
So everyone is going to give you really good advice on what works best at the gunks for them...
I will tell you what I think is my ideal gunks rack... but first, I recommend saving the dough and only buying stuff when it goes on sale! Also, do you already climb at the gunks? What do your more experienced partners use? Talk to them, odds are you will be learning placement techniques from them anyway... Try their gear out and see what you like best!
So I think that the best rack is:
*BD nuts (full-set down to #3)
*Odd assortment of random shaped nuts in mid to small sizes...
*BD camalots (don't care if its a new one or an old style)
-Sizes .5, .75, 1, 2 and 3 or 4 (I double up on them, not for every climb but depending on the route)
*Aliens
-1 Black, 2 Blue, 2 Green, 2 Yellow, 1 Grey, 1 Red, 1 blue/green, 1 green/yellow (hybrids are awesome!)
*Slings
-2 x 4ft's
-12 x 2ft's (doubled over, to extend on those lovely wandering pitches!)
Yup, I carry a lot of stuff!
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treddy
Feb 12, 2007, 8:15 PM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 47
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I agree with most of what has been said already, but I would add a bit of emphasis for a couple things that might influence how you fill out your rack. First, many gunks routes wander a bit and have lots of roofs...long slings come in very handy for managing rope drag. Second, while I often prefer passive gear, the gunks has a lot of horizontal cracks in which I find it's much easier to plug in a cam than fiddle with passive pro.
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Adk
Feb 13, 2007, 3:29 AM
Post #13 of 16
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1085
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You've gotten some really great advise here yet I love my hexes!!
Tricams are really helpful in those shallow horizontals.
Tricams, nuts beaners and slings to extend and a few runners. Then, when the cash is available add the cams mentioned.
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socialist1
Feb 13, 2007, 3:55 AM
Post #14 of 16
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Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 58
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Some good stuff above. I will just reiterate peoples recommendation to not buy hexes. If you plan on climbing harder routes, you wont use them... Just do yourself a favor and buy stuff that is quality and that you will use as you progress (read: no hexes or forged friends).
On a budget, I would buy a full set of nuts, two pink and one red tricam, at least 10 trad draws and a couple doubles, and as many cams as you can afford after that. Starting going back and forth between mid and small size cams until you have a full set.
In the long run, I would say you should strive for, in my mind, the ideal barebones full gunks rack:
full set of nuts
full set of micronuts
aliens blue to red
camalots or metolius up.
12 draws, 3 doubles.
by the time you have that much, youll know what YOU prefer doubles of.
(This post was edited by socialist1 on Feb 13, 2007, 4:06 AM)
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seneca_sinner
Mar 15, 2007, 8:15 PM
Post #15 of 16
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Registered: Mar 10, 2007
Posts: 10
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gear express.com had trango Nutz on sale for like 40 bucks a few weeks ago. I have a set and like them a lot.
you can never go wrong with tricams so many uses for them
and my personal favorites are the trango BallNutz..
as far as activ pro I still think the Camalots are one of the best out and have been using them for years, but I picked up a rack of Rock Empire Robots and they seem to be an excellent product especially for the price, 230.00 for the complete set of 8 at acmeclimbing.com.. just my .02
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tradrenn
Mar 16, 2007, 12:39 AM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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Dillbag wrote: So everyone is going to give you really good advice on what works best at the gunks for them...
You have a point here but I would like to elaborate upon it.
The ideal thinking when reading this thread is to see common parts between each poster and you ( or OP ) will notice that most of us use similar gear and have a similar opinion.
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