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petsfed
Feb 16, 2007, 1:20 AM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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j_ung wrote: yuiruprup wrote: chipping holds is lame and unethical so it is understandable that the industry shuns him. You mean like it shuns everybody else who chips holds? The humor of his most egregiously chipped route (Hugh) is that he was mostly trying to make it harder. That's what makes me laugh. In any event, he was the sacrificial lamb when the climbing world finally realized that chipping is not ok. He was by no means the first to chip, and certainly not the first chipper who later climbed a hard grade on something. Look at the history of Smith Rocks for a litany of examples of that. Fred got crucified because he had chipped before, then claimed a 9b+. Everyone's response, rather than attempting the route in question was to get indignant over the suggestion that anyone could climb that hard, and look for character flaws. As it stands, its not clear, to this day, if Fred chipped on Akira, and the grade remains unconfirmed. Also, everybody always refers to A. Huber's contention that he should have a very full resume of climbs near that grade, as well as some very hard on sight climbs on his resume. I would imagine that if you're A. Huber and have a total freak out at the suggestion that you're not the best climber in the universe, then you have to have a full resume to justify your existence. Most people just enjoy climbing though.
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asc_climb
Feb 16, 2007, 3:40 AM
Post #27 of 36
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Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 67
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bako_prc wrote: if you love him so much why dont you marry him? huh?
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unrooted
Feb 16, 2007, 3:44 AM
Post #28 of 36
(1696 views)
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Registered: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 840
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he's taken
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bako_prc
Feb 16, 2007, 3:30 PM
Post #29 of 36
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Registered: Jul 18, 2006
Posts: 56
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asc_climb wrote: bako_prc wrote: if you love him so much why dont you marry him? huh? In reply to: it just seems like your on his jock, and he dosent even pay your bills
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milominderbinder
Feb 16, 2007, 3:44 PM
Post #30 of 36
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Registered: Dec 4, 2005
Posts: 84
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asc_climb wrote: I think akira could be a 9b, and sharma, graham, andrada, and yugi should project it like they did La Rambla Direct. Ok, that's silly....When Fred doesn't go repeat Realization, or Coup de Grace, etc. it's cool because he's climbing 'just to climb.' But Sharma (who doesn't even grade his routes!), Graham, etc. have a responsibility to go do his, even though they have amassed a great deal of credibility. I am not saying Fred isn't super strong, and that Akira can't possibly be 9b+ or whatever. I'm just pointing out the stupidity of having different standards for these world class climbers.
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twaikker
Feb 16, 2007, 4:30 PM
Post #32 of 36
(1645 views)
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Registered: Mar 1, 2005
Posts: 131
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twaikker
Feb 16, 2007, 4:42 PM
Post #33 of 36
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Registered: Mar 1, 2005
Posts: 131
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The thing that gets me the most is how Huber, Dana, and Ben Moon all ripped his accomplishments, yet they wont go do his climbs. The reason i dont think Fred needs to go do Realization, is cause he isnt doubting Sharmas grade. Dai sent Hugh, and confirmed the 5.14d (which was sent around the same time as action direct) and said it was a the hardest 5.14d he has ever done, and Yuji couldnt even do the route. And like someone pointed out earlier he manipulated the handholds to make it harder!! most people who are ignorant to Freds chipping think he is like the weekend worriar who chips a 5.12 to make it an easy 5.9......no he made it harder. he chipped, so did todd skinner, so did ron kauk, so did many top french climbers, smith rocks is as unnatural as the get, but no one bitches. i think what needs to be done is get the strongest guys out there (sharma, graham, woods, dana, yuji, dai, klem, fred nicole, those 2 spanish dudes who climbed like 33 5.14's this year) and have huber watch them work the route (or boulder problem) and when they finally send lets here the grade that is given. when the smoke settles (and the chalk) we can tell old ass been moon to fuck off about being such an arogent and egotisticall asshole in the late 90's against fred. Akira will get the respect it deserves, fred probably wont even care about the confirmation, and then sharma will envit him to swizzy and have him try the "off the wagon" problem. which fred will send in less than 10 tries. peace
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thomasribiere
Feb 16, 2007, 6:52 PM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Aug 24, 2002
Posts: 9306
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sevrdhed wrote: asc_climb wrote: the font's not bouldering??? Font shmont. It's a little known fact that font is actually in the US, in the southern end of oklahoma. For example, this photo: [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/116926-largest_51379.jpg[/image] is actually photoshopped to remove a very critical piece of information.... [image]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j249/sevrdhed/Fontusa.gif[/image] Go america! PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THIS FRAGILE BOULDER. THANK YOU
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camilleguignard
Aug 3, 2007, 6:52 PM
Post #35 of 36
(1508 views)
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 30
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just go there and you'll see
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rasoy
Aug 4, 2007, 4:53 AM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: Jul 28, 2007
Posts: 242
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twaikker? Show me where Ron Kauk ever chipped.
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