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Itty Bitty Brass Nuts
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dr_feelgood


Feb 19, 2007, 11:03 AM
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Itty Bitty Brass Nuts
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Other than Trango and HB, does anyone make or distribute small brass micros. The BD micros i was using were too hard for the granite and kept blowing. Durrr.


Partner hosh


Feb 19, 2007, 11:28 AM
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Metolius Astro Nuts are made of a brass alloy I think... Are you looking for the Super small aid set or the slightly larger free set?

hosh.


dr_feelgood


Feb 19, 2007, 12:32 PM
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hosh wrote:
Metolius Astro Nuts are made of a brass alloy I think... Are you looking for the Super small aid set or the slightly larger free set?

hosh.
Probably both.


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Feb 19, 2007, 1:27 PM
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The original RPs are still made I'm pretty sure. Best small brass nuts on the market. It would be a bear to source them in the US though as they are made in a garage at the back of a house in country Victoria, Oz. You might try Chockstone to ask this question.

Oooh, I tell ya the very smallest RP is something to behold when weighting it, those teeny tiny wires sing like a piano string, scary stuff especially when you really check out the placement and find that the head of a previously broken RP the same size is lodged in there. That's when ya call out for yer mummy. Laugh


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Feb 19, 2007, 1:33 PM
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RPs seem to be available at MEC but they would cost you a pretty penny with shipping and tax charges.

I agree that they are still the best!


Partner euroford


Feb 19, 2007, 1:53 PM
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last july i pretty much earned my PHD in itty bitty brass nutting on the C3 pitches of the dunn/westbay. i would have trouble imagining a pitch with more sustained fiddly nutwork than i found on that thing.

for what its worth, RP's and HB offsets are far and away the best things going for this kind of work. although quite seriously frightening even the smallest sizes are insanely effective.

the problem is, they are a bit hard to come by, and can cost an arm and a leg. i've done best with a sustained effort on ebay and through the message boards. if i see them in a store, i just buy them whether i need them or not!

i have two sets of each, and in my case even that was not enough. i supplimented the rack with a set of BD's bronze micro's and several of the 1-3 bd stoppers. the micro's are great when you find the right places, and the small stoppers will get the job done sometimes. i use these whenever i can to conserve my rack of rp's and hb's, becouse sometimes you'll need one of these and nothing else will work.

having a set of trango ballnutz and some leeper camhooks are also essential for getting you past some of the parallel spots. the ballnutz are also essential for when the crack might get even too shallow for a camhook to work.

i almost always backclean the smallest rp's and hb's. fact of the matter is, they arn't likely to stop a fall and then you'll just be left with one less tool on your rack and a broken piece of gear that will need to be extracted (hopefully!) before you can go back up.


(This post was edited by euroford on Feb 19, 2007, 1:54 PM)


maldaly


Feb 19, 2007, 2:11 PM
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Neptune's tries to keep the RP's in stock. Give them a call at 303/499-8866.
Mal


flamer


Feb 19, 2007, 2:24 PM
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euroford wrote:
i would have trouble imagining a pitch with more sustained fiddly nutwork than i found on that thing.

...someday you'll have to go to the valley.

I can think of a pitch on Skull queen that's the really deal C3 on itty bitty brassie's....

josh


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Feb 19, 2007, 2:33 PM
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flamer wrote:
...someday you'll have to go to the valley.

was seriously thinking about it this year... but i've been corrupted and will again head out for more alpine wall punishment. my buddy rich told me something about a call girl up in wyoming? Tongue

skull queen was on the possable list of valley routes though.

thin nutting is soooooooo fun, why i think so, i don't know, but i do....


(This post was edited by euroford on Feb 19, 2007, 2:35 PM)


flamer


Feb 19, 2007, 3:01 PM
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euroford wrote:
[my buddy rich told me something about a call girl up in wyoming? Tongue

It would be a hell of a journey to visit that whorehouse.

It's going to be pretty funny when you do go the valley or zion.....you're going to be kicking yourself for walking so far!!

If you're seriously considering Hooker...you might want to think about the Black canyon instead. Look into the Hallucinogen wall....

josh


zeke_sf


Feb 19, 2007, 3:52 PM
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euroford wrote:
my buddy rich told me something about a call girl up in wyoming? Tongue [...] thin nutting is soooooooo fun, why i think so, i don't know, but i do....

We're talking about climbing still, right? Wink


Partner euroford


Feb 19, 2007, 3:59 PM
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zeke_sf wrote:
We're talking about climbing still, right? Wink

everybody should want to go climbing with me eh?


Partner euroford


Feb 19, 2007, 4:03 PM
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flamer wrote:
It would be a hell of a journey to visit that whorehouse.

your damn right about that, but i guess i just can't find a happy medium. all this big city livin gives me a serious jones for getting into the boondox i guess!


billcoe_


Mar 6, 2007, 12:57 PM
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philbox wrote:
Oooh, I tell ya the very smallest RP is something to behold when weighting it, those teeny tiny wires sing like a piano string, scary stuff especially when you really check out the placement and find that the head of a previously broken RP the same size is lodged in there. That's when ya call out for yer mummy. Laugh

Was i the only one who read this? Best line on the thread so far.Laugh


golsen


Mar 6, 2007, 5:40 PM
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Euroford,
is this the call girl you be thinkin on?



If so I got to warn you, not to get all kinky, but a horse or two will really help increase your staying power!

I tussled with that one once and she came out ahead, but it was still a fine adventure.



Cold that lady is. You wont get much warmth from her except a bit in the morning...

Definitely a worthy thing of beauty though....


Partner euroford


Mar 7, 2007, 4:48 AM
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golsen wrote:
Euroford,
is this the call girl you be thinkin on?
[img]http://farm1.static.flickr.com/53/148448125_2f2bca5376.jpg[/img]


SCHAaaaWiiing!!


Golsen, shoulda hit the adult content button on your post there...

nice shot! possability for a higher res version?


a couple of horses? sha right... how about like 250er so horses? the plane has gotta have at least that i would think....


golsen


Mar 7, 2007, 8:18 AM
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Euroford,
If you are really thinking about Hooker, email me at gbohome@yahoo.com.

I may take some time getting back to ya, but I may be able to scrounge up some beta and more pics for ya. I attempted the Boisenelt Larson VI 5.11 A4 in 1984 thinking it was a new route only to find a bolt on the 4th pitch I think it was.

You should send it dude.


flamer


Mar 7, 2007, 3:17 PM
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euroford wrote:
a couple of horses? sha right... how about like 250er so horses? the plane has gotta have at least that i would think....

...Not positive, but I believe she's in a wilderness area. Which would mean absolutely no plane. You can however hire/use pack animals....ala the horse comment. I believe that it's the prefered method for getting in the area.

josh


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Mar 7, 2007, 3:51 PM
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plane? i dunno what your talking about.


dr_feelgood


Mar 8, 2007, 3:48 PM
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I found me some brass HB offsets... yeaaaahhh....


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