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majid_sabet
Feb 21, 2007, 4:27 AM
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Kman asked me to post this there we go.
Type; 5.9 Crack
pitch 5
Late Sept.
Location: Your nightmare in Pakistan
56 meters rope out
lost haul bag
No second rope
Partner resting under 5 ton rock,belay is locked with 4 meter of rope left.
leader with 2 broken leg, he can not down climb
Can not leave any gears, need everything to get down
no aiders
no jumars
-----------------------------------------
leader has
3-4 7mm prusik
Few locking and non locking biner
1 eight plate for belay ( He hates ATC)
Few cams and few nuts
Few draws
--------------------------------------------
it is getting cold, what is the plan ?
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
Thanks to all of you
Good job Chico
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 23, 2007, 8:04 AM)
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carabiner96
Feb 21, 2007, 4:31 AM
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Whip out a ham sandwich and jump.
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rock_fencer
Feb 21, 2007, 4:36 AM
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Cut the cord cause your fucked and aint a chance in hell youll ever eat sweat potatoe fries again!!!
Edit: Shit you dont have a knife
(This post was edited by rock_fencer on Feb 21, 2007, 4:36 AM)
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kachoong
Feb 21, 2007, 4:38 AM
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Is he pooping or bleeding?
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moose_droppings
Feb 21, 2007, 4:42 AM
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1. Don't worry about your partner, he's toast.
2. Do I have a knife?
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majid_sabet
Feb 21, 2007, 4:43 AM
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bleeding slowly
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painter
Feb 21, 2007, 4:51 AM
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The leader could unclip from her last piece of pro. At least from the picture it looks like she could reach it. She could then fall onto the next piece of gear. Then, maybe four meters would be enough to lower her back to the belay and treat her injuries.
A stupid plan at best, I know. But you have to be bold in these types of situations.
Right?
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pindrvr75
Feb 21, 2007, 5:00 AM
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You find a way to get up that rope to your partner. You try like hell to get the five ton rock off him/her or you both die trying.
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kane_schutzman
Feb 21, 2007, 5:05 AM
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Prusic to the top peice, place more gear if possible, fix the rope, then repell on the single line?
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anykineclimb
Feb 21, 2007, 5:14 AM
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down aid, while backcleaning to keep all your gear.
self belay with clove hitch
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kane_schutzman
Feb 21, 2007, 5:15 AM
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climbinginchico wrote: kane_schutzman wrote: Prusic to the top peice, place more gear if possible, fix the rope, then repell on the single line? So that gets you back to the anchor, with a fixed line above you, and a dead belayer, 4 pitches up. Still screwed. Back to the drawing board.
So now I am at the belay anchors. After I realize I fucked up, chew through the rope, while trying to save as much as possible. Prussic all the way to the top, set up a repell. Now I have my rope
This is all under the assumption that we can't down aid, which I do not see why you couldnt in a 5.9 crack
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majid_sabet
Feb 21, 2007, 5:20 AM
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anykineclimb wrote: down aid, while backcleaning to keep all your gear. self belay with clove hitch
Down aid with what?
explain how
remember , you got no legs no aiders, just your hands.
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majid_sabet
Feb 21, 2007, 5:24 AM
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chico
Do not destroy it please, KMAN asked and I just post it.
Those who know should stay out of it and let others figure it out first.
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anykineclimb
Feb 21, 2007, 5:31 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: anykineclimb wrote: down aid, while backcleaning to keep all your gear. self belay with clove hitch Down aid with what? explain how remember , you got no legs no aiders, just your hands.
With the stuff you mentioned of course! who needs etriers or legs to aid??
In reply to: Those who know should stay out of it and let others figure it out first.
I guess I'll keep quiet now then
(This post was edited by anykineclimb on Feb 21, 2007, 5:34 AM)
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salamanizer
Feb 21, 2007, 5:44 AM
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That's an easy one.
Use prussic for tourniquet if bleeding excessively form compound fracture.
Use a clove hitch to put yourself on self belay.
Begin down aiding by placing a piece attached to sling attached to you no longer than arms reach.
Do the same for other arm.
Ease onto top piece.
Place second piece, lock off arm then pull first piece and ease onto lower piece as gently as possible.
[kinda hard to explain]
Anyway, you'll be moving down two to three feet at a time, but eventually you'll get there.
Back clean gear.
You'll only need to down aid half the pitch.
You can rap the second half off *bomber anchor.
Once on ledge of dead belayer, free rope and set up a *bomber one piece anchor.
Rappell 75% of rope length to next anchor and begin looking for your next one piece (*bomber) anchor.
Repeat steps untill you reach the ground.
Retreve bivy gear from dropped haul bag.
Prepare for a long night.
Try and signal for rescue all night.
Once its morning, start crawling motherfucker.
If Simpson could do it, so can you.
*Bomber = If you'd trust it to hold a fall, you can trust it to hold a rappell.
edited to note... oops too slow, someone already answered it, though with less half baked meaningless babble.
(This post was edited by salamanizer on Feb 21, 2007, 5:51 AM)
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anykineclimb
Feb 21, 2007, 5:49 AM
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Glad theres others with a brain here!
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majid_sabet
Feb 21, 2007, 5:54 AM
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Anykindclimb
I am going to throw a nasty case on test #2, get ready.
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anykineclimb
Feb 21, 2007, 5:58 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: Anykindclimb I am going to throw a nasty case on test #2, get ready.
BRING IT!!!
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rocketsocks
Feb 21, 2007, 6:14 AM
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Prepare an anchor sling (locker connected to a sling girthed to your harness) if you don't have one already.
Pull yourself up near the top piece, place a new piece a few feet below it and clip into it with your anchor sling.
Now, clean the top piece, this will add some rope slack into the system, you will be able to use this to control your descent easily and precisely via rappelling / self-belay. Connect a locker to your belay loop and rig the rope heading to your (crushed) belayer for rappelling / self-belay with your eight plate, also rig an autoblock with another biner and a prusik.
Take up all the slack to yourself in the rope and put yourself on belay / rappel. Unclip from the current (now top) piece, lower yourself a few feet, lock off the belay using the autoblock, if necessary. Place another piece in the crack, anchor into it, clean the top piece. Lather. Rinse. Repeat.
When you get back to your belayer, do what you can, but it might be tricky getting a 5 ton rock off him/her and providing the necessary medical care without any gear. If you can't help your partner, at least free the rope (chew through it if you have to, or maybe use a sharp rock). Continue down alone or together by rappelling or down aiding as appropriate.
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kman
Feb 21, 2007, 6:59 AM
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Sorry if there was any confusion Majid.
I will clarify a bit. I did not request a public post and brought it via p.m. because I was under the impression that you did not want to answer such scenario's on public forum, and I was interested to hear your opinion on the matter (which you answered thank you...although the scenario was different from the one I mentioned).
The scenario I mentioned was a little different in that there was no bomber crack, it was more run out. Belayer had some cordalette and a couple lockers, belayer was still o.k. but the climber was not. 50 metres out 10 feet below the pro that caught the fall on slightly overhanging terrain. Using double ropes. Free climbing rack no aid gear, and I left it up to you if you would have brought an emergency bolt kit (with a couple bolts) with you on such hairy alpine terrain if you chose to do so. Also, I assumed that there was no 8 belay plate, since I never have one, but I did not communicate that.
My intent with the p.m. was to try to encourage you to share your knowledge rather than always keeping it in pm's. I think that open discussion would be more productive for those that do not have knowledge in these matters. Posting solutions along with the problems will be of benefit for everyone in the community.
With that said, IMO, posting these kind of scenarios are good if they get people thinking about and discussing / learning self rescue, and I for one, would like to see more of this. It's amazing how many people can't even do some thing as simple as escape a belay. It's a good policy to be able to get yourself out of any type of terrain you plan on climbing in.
It is good to be reminded that accidents can and do happen to climbers from the inexperienced right up to the top level. I think you have nothing but good intentions with your safety reminders and I appreciate that. IMO it has nothing to do with "bloodlust" as some people claim.
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piton
Feb 21, 2007, 1:42 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: anykineclimb wrote: down aid, while backcleaning to keep all your gear. self belay with clove hitch Down aid with what? explain how remember , you got no legs no aiders, just your hands.
so what your trad climbing then w/ no slings.
this stupid gym climber shit. no wonder you gymbies get in trouble when you climb outdoors.
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