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fearlessclimber


Feb 25, 2007, 12:11 PM
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The fastest way?
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What is the fastest setup/way for big wall climbing with a 2 person party. Im planning on doing the nose in one day and need some tips/ways that make big wall climbing faster. What is the fastest way to climb...lead changes, self belaying, fixing ropes, etc...


johnathon78


Feb 25, 2007, 12:51 PM
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first person climbs to anchor. Second person climbs up to anchor, takes a small rest, then continues up next pitch. then firsts cleans and does 3rd pitch. This is assuming you dont have a haulbag. If a haulbag (pig) is present, First climbs to anchors while tagging pig line. Second jugs lead rope as first hauls pig. So forth and so on. At least, thats how I and my partners do it.


Partner climbinginchico


Feb 25, 2007, 3:27 PM
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Leading in blocks is more efficient- it allows the leader to rest while the second jugs and cleans. Then they swap gear, and the leader takes off on the next pitch.

Though you can always short fix, rope solo while the second cleans/jugs, then have them tag gear up after they put you on belay.

YMMV.


majid_sabet


Feb 25, 2007, 4:14 PM
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fearlessclimber wrote:
What is the fastest setup/way for big wall climbing with a 2 person party. Im planning on doing the nose in one day and need some tips/ways that make big wall climbing faster. What is the fastest way to climb...lead changes, self belaying, fixing ropes, etc...

Have you ever done it before?


Partner euroford


Feb 25, 2007, 4:32 PM
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your single biggest time savings will be clusterfrig reduction. first make sure you have things dialed on time waste reduction, then the next step is to concentrate on keeping the leader leading. looking at yer supertopo, decide which pitches best suite which leaders and lead in blocks accordingly. short fix if you can, but this may or may not be applicable or necessary. don't trim the rack down too far for the sake of saving weight, you will move faster if you have the gear you need.


yetanotherdave


Feb 25, 2007, 4:55 PM
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I've compiled a bunch of tips on moving faster on the WallWiki - there's already some good stuff here, please add your favourite speed tip.

http://bigwalls.com/...?title=Moving_Faster


Partner euroford


Feb 25, 2007, 5:31 PM
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nice man thanks. some good advice on there.

especially the 'don't fall' part.


fearlessclimber


Feb 25, 2007, 6:38 PM
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I have not done the nose yet but i have done big walls in black canyon natl park. What i have done for big walls is lead the first pitch, set a fixed rope and then rope solo the next pitch while the other jugs and cleans, but im trying to get it faster


extremrocker12


Feb 25, 2007, 7:06 PM
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I would just put the pro in and make sure its protected and go as fast as I can. It also helps to look at porn at the same time


fearlessclimber


Feb 25, 2007, 8:55 PM
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ive actually already tried that tactic, thats anyways.


flamer


Feb 26, 2007, 7:46 AM
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For the nose you need to be able to free climb 80%of the wall.

Short fix if/when you can but keep in mind that alot of the route is free climbing in the 5.10 range. The guys that move uber fast are free climbing 5.10 with lack 80 ft of slack out.

You need to take a very lite rack. For the nose the fast guys only take cams...no nuts.

The 1 route I saw you've done in the Black isn't really a wall. The difference between doing that IAD and the Nose is HUGE.

Try doing some other stuff IAD first. The South face of the column, then RNWF Half dome.

josh


fearlessclimber


Feb 26, 2007, 11:49 AM
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yep, ill be able to free all of the 10 crack pretty quickly, im pretty solid now on 11 crack at the forks. So do you reccommend only cams? Thinking about it nuts will eat up time placeing and cleaning.

yeah the only thing ive climbed is southern arete and it was all free, i have climbed several other multipitch routes in sedona and one route on angels landing called days of no future.

Me and my friend are currently looking for more places to do some multipitch around arizona, preferably more than 5 pitches, if you know of any good stuff to practice on lemme know, something around 5.10 5.11.

thanks

eric


shimanilami


Feb 26, 2007, 12:12 PM
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There's a Supertopo guide called "Road to the Nose" that will help you immensely. Also, Hans Florine has written a couple of books specifically dedicated to speed climbing the Nose (right down to what gear you'll need on each pitch). You can check these out at HansFlorine.com.

This said, I must say that there is really nothing you can do to prepare for climbing on the Captain than to actually climb on the Captain or other Yosemite walls like it. Climbing the Nose in a day is something very few climbers in the world can do. It takes years of training to build the strength, stamina, saavy, etc. that is required. Do not underestimate the seriousness of this endeavor. And if you do so, it will be at your own peril.


sspssp


Feb 26, 2007, 12:21 PM
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shimanilami wrote:
There's a Supertopo guide called "Road to the Nose" that will help you immensely. Also, Hans Florine has written a couple of books specifically dedicated to speed climbing the Nose (right down to what gear you'll need on each pitch).

This said, I must say that there is really nothing you can do to prepare for climbing on the Captain than to actually climb on the Captain or other Yosemite walls like it. Climbing the Nose in a day is something very few climbers in the world can do. It takes years of training to build the strength, stamina, saavy, etc. that is required. Do not underestimate the seriousness of this endeavor. And if you do so, it will be at your own peril.

I was going to mention the supertopo and Hans, beat me to it. The web site supertopo.com has a lot of info if you do various searches.

Stamina is probably one of the biggest, but you can train for that. If you are in an area that has 5 pitch climbs, do 5 or 6 of them in a single day. Even if you have to do the exact same route.

I disagree with the own peril comment. You can get hurt on any rock climb. That said, ElCap is a pretty friendly environment for a long push. Ten minute approach and there is a bolted rap route (top to bottom) that is [motly] separate from the climbing route. Bailing is very easy compared to something like bailing from the Diamond. [Assuming you climb when the days are long and the nights mild] with a good forecast, weather should be a minimal concern (again as opposed to something like the Diamond). Biggest issue might be heat, carrying water, and trying to pass other parties.


shimanilami


Feb 26, 2007, 12:37 PM
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sspssp wrote:
... ElCap is a pretty friendly environment for a long push. Ten minute approach and there is a bolted rap route (top to bottom) that is [mostly] separate from the climbing route. Bailing is very easy ... Biggest issue might be heat, carrying water, and trying to pass other parties.

I agree with you on each point. It is a relatively safe route. Fearlessclimber's ego is more likely to take a beating than anything else.

Have at it, Fearless.


fearlessclimber


Feb 26, 2007, 3:05 PM
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ya, it wont be the first time my ego gets shut down. Im prepared for the valley to be very stiff and dont mind if it kicks my ass.Cool


shimanilami


Feb 26, 2007, 3:35 PM
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fearlessclimber wrote:
ya, it wont be the first time my ego gets shut down. Im prepared for the valley to be very stiff and dont mind if it kicks my ass.Cool

I'm with you. I went up there a couple of weekends ago, and my partner and I decided we'd go up as far as we could in a day. We figured we could do 10 or 11 pitches. We actually did 7. We were sort of futzing around (i.e. he's never been on a wall, we tried to free everything, and it was really cold), but it was humbling all the same.

The granite is like nothing else. And it's just so BIG. I plan to climb the Nose this summer, but I'll be spending a few days doing it.


sspssp


Feb 26, 2007, 4:20 PM
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If you aren't used to granite, Yosemite will be a bit of a shock. The holds and gear placements tend to feel a bit "weird" at first. Particularly on ElCap, a lot of your holds and/or gear placements are beaten out pin scars. Having at least one set of hybrid Aliens is nice (order these well in advance, CCH does not have its act together).

The more time you can spend in Yosemite getting familiar with it the better. Freeblast is a good route for getting used to pin scared Yosemite climbing. Serenity is a classic 3 pitch climb on pin scars.


shimanilami


Feb 26, 2007, 4:46 PM
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sspssp wrote:
Serenity is a classic 3 pitch climb on pin scars.

Ahhh ... the Serenity Crack. That's where I took my first real whipper on trad lead. That crux is a bitch for people with sausage fingers like mine, but that is one sweet climb, especially if you add on Sons of Yesterday.

I suppose I could look at a guidebook, but is Freeblast fairly well protected down low? And is it easy to bail? I've been doing day trips to the Lower Valley over the last few weeks, but was thinking I might check out Freeblast when the days get a little longer.


sspssp


Feb 27, 2007, 9:14 AM
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shimanilami wrote:
sspssp wrote:
Serenity is a classic 3 pitch climb on pin scars.

...but that is one sweet climb, especially if you add on Sons of Yesterday.

I suppose I could look at a guidebook, but is Freeblast fairly well protected down low? And is it easy to bail?

Sons is also sweet, but I don't remember it being pin scarred (it was put up much later).

I remember the pro on Freeblast as well protected, especially down low. I can't remember what (if much) went into the Half Dollar/squeeze chimney, but it felt pretty secure. I thought the bolted slabs were hard for the grade, but it is reasonably bolted by Yosemite standards.

Very easy to bail with two ropes.


iamthewallress


Feb 28, 2007, 12:48 AM
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There's only one point of view for doing the NIAD that I can take with authority and that is if your jugger isn't in good enought shape to clean all 34 of her pitches in around 15 minutes or less (ideally less so that you have a better fuck-up cushion) depending upon their complexity w/ the food, water, and jackets for the team on her back (and the bail line if you're not sure of yourself), then having a really speedy leader won't matter a bit.

There just aren't many leaders that will be just as fast or who will make due as well with the 'light rack' on 5.10 or harder free climbing on a self belay as they will be with someone else belaying them, so minimizing the self-belay time will keep the whole team moving a lot faster.

It's probably quicker/easier to train to make up time by getting in better jugging shape than it is to all of the sudden be able to climb a few letter grades harder non-stop, all day.


(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Feb 28, 2007, 1:15 AM)


flamer


Mar 1, 2007, 3:08 PM
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iamthewallress wrote:
There's only one point of view for doing the NIAD that I can take with authority and that is if your jugger isn't in good enought shape to clean all 34 of her pitches in around 15 minutes or less


Always thought that was just a given....but considering the thread i guess it's something that needed to be pointed out.

josh


summerprophet


Mar 1, 2007, 3:29 PM
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Other things to get faster.

Before setting a piece, look, up, can you get a little higher to a better/equally good placement?

Don't F**k around at the belay, don't tell your partner how great the pitch was, grab water, gear and go. You can chat at when you are coming up to and leaving the belay.

As said, cams are faster than nuts. don't get me wrong, I love nuts, and will place one before a cam anyday UNLESS I am aiding / speeding.

Get good and fast from jumping from climbing to aiding and back. If you are solid on tens, then get solid at french freeing twelves. The difference is twenty to thirty minutes of mixed free and aid, and three hours of aiding.

And remember, there are likely going to be a dozen people in front of you, borrow binoculars in the meadow and wait for the best window.

It is all about being comfortable on lead and organized at the belay. If you are scared, you are going to be slow, if the ropes are a mess, you are going to be slow. If the gear isn't ready at the swap you are going to be slow. Getting the idea?

That being said, I have been on the captain, but haven't done the nose.


golsen


Mar 2, 2007, 5:52 PM
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Beofore you go online asking about the NIAD you may want to consider the advice you are gonna get. Some are giving you downright shitty advice.

Someone had the nerve to say dont take any nuts. Well, I got some news for you. If you dont take nuts, be sure you got some cast iron balls cuz you will need them.

If you havent a clue about how to climb the NIAD, I doubt you will make it. That said, it is actually reasonable for a surpsising number of climbers who have their shit together and have little probs running it out on 5.10.

There is some good beta out there and you can find some at ST.com.

Dont let a bunch of interent wankers dissuade you from your dreams. But dont use the internet to feed them. Like a healthy body, dreams need sustenance to come true too.


fearlessclimber


Mar 2, 2007, 11:26 PM
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golsen wrote:
Beofore you go online asking about the NIAD you may want to consider the advice you are gonna get. Some are giving you downright shitty advice.

Someone had the nerve to say dont take any nuts. Well, I got some news for you. If you dont take nuts, be sure you got some cast iron balls cuz you will need them.

If you havent a clue about how to climb the NIAD, I doubt you will make it. That said, it is actually reasonable for a surpsising number of climbers who have their shit together and have little probs running it out on 5.10.

There is some good beta out there and you can find some at ST.com.

Dont let a bunch of interent wankers dissuade you from your dreams. But dont use the internet to feed them. Like a healthy body, dreams need sustenance to come true too.


I take my nuts everywhere

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