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Women's specific gear: a reference guide
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climbsomething


Sep 19, 2002, 5:55 AM
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Women's specific gear: a reference guide
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Hello womenz,

I have compiled a list of climbing softgoods designed especially for women. This list is mainly for women new to the sport who would like to give XX-specific gear a look. (Of course, those of us who aren't so new but have had it with the unisex stuff or would like to try something different, or just like to check every thread, are welcomed to keep reading too ). If you have experience with any of the below items, please post a helpful review for the curious

Rock Shoes
Five-Ten Diamond recently discontinued but can be found with some searching around
Five-Ten Sapphire the Diamond's successor
Five-Ten Women's Zlipper also no longer manufactured, I don't think, but look around for them anyway
Free-Climbing Lola
Mammut Bee
Scarpa Dominatrix

Harnesses
Arc-teryx Isis
Black Diamond Calypso
BlueWater Ocelot
C.A.M.P. XX
CMI Myst
Troll Xcelle
Troll Spark Air
Metolius Peregrine 3-D
Misty Mountain Sihouette
Misty Mountain Finesse
Petzl Ciconia
REI Evolution
Rock Empire Makak
Singing Rock Atlantis
Trango Mariposa
Wild Country Vision WMS

And... can ya bleeve it? ... Prana has a women's specific *chalk bag* Really!

I have poked around the Web, my Climbing mag Gear Guide, and my own little brain for all this, but surely there's some stuff I've left out, so feel free to make additions.

And for the ladies who are into alpine, mountaineering, and other such expedition-type undertakings, if you can produce some info on mountaineering boots, sleeping bags, trekking boots, etc. designed for women, that'd be swell

Enjoy!

Your aspiring gear-head,

~Hillary

EDIT: my apostrophes came out as question marks... humph


[ This Message was edited by: climbsomething on 2002-09-18 22:58 ]


climberchic


Sep 19, 2002, 2:45 PM
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Hillary!!

You rock, girl What a great topic!

Care to write an article??
(she says with a sly look on her face )

~Erica


aelita


Oct 20, 2002, 4:09 AM
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I just made the impulse buy of the year - I walked into a climbing shop to buy 40 feet of webbing and walked out with a pair of climbing shoes... yikes! (go credit card go) -

Scarpa Dominatrix shoes... I've NEVER had a shoe fit me like this. Skin-fit, amazing! The guy at the store said he has a hard time fitting these for people as Scarpa tends to have a specific fit, but well... I HAD to ahve them after I tried them on...

They are interesting - edging machines but smear very well due to a soft mid-sole. All in all I am very happy. Its interesting, they are fairly narrow but designed for a high arch and a wider heel. Very much what my foot is like and few shoes fit that well. Apparently women tend to have wider heels, but I have tried La Sportiva Katana's (they have a wide heel) and those felt really baggy in the heel. The Scarpa's feel purfect - enough space that they don't hurt but not baggy either.

So far I have climbed a total of three days in them now. They HURT (ok new shoes, sport climbing fit, they are supposed to) - but omg do they climb well! my old shoes feel like boats afterwards. I think I am in love


nikegirl


Oct 20, 2002, 7:09 PM
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I have a pair of scarpa dominatrix! Oh the agony.
yes, a perfect fit...glove tight.
toenails in pain for days after.
So, when it get's unbearable I go back to my "freeclimbing "Lolas"

Poorly made! I'm on my second pair...But, dang, they have the best rubber. Fit like velvet. Therand wore thru the first two weeks...on my first pair and the perimeter of the rubber/at the top of the shoe, came away from the sole.
Now, trading them in for the same...thinking this was a flaw.

NOPE. Same issues on the second pair.
But, goddess, sometimes comfort outweighs the technical.

I'll be resoling them, soon. Hopefully not to find this any more of an issue. I'd love to have these as my primary.

along with my zens..I shall have them resoled in a GOOD rubber. Then I'll be haaaaaapy!!


T





aelita


Oct 21, 2002, 3:40 AM
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hey Nikegirl,

I am confused, which pair is poorly made? the Scarpa's or the freeclimbing ones?

my pair of scarpa's are wearing in really fast and I am really liking them. this is my second pair of shoes though and I can't testify that they are a "women's" shoe, just a shoe that seems to fit my foot well which is a rarity.


sinorock


Oct 21, 2002, 1:35 PM
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Although 5.10's anasazi is not a women specific model, I found them fit me really well.
They edge really well. Anasazi are made of synthetic leather so they don't stretch much. Board last (not so buttery soles) The heel cups are small so they hug my heels snugly.

comments on other shoes:
I found 5.10's moccasym have bigger heel cups. They stretch almost two size after a while.



moey


Oct 21, 2002, 2:07 PM
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More women specific gear:
Sleeping bags! For those of us under 6ft. (or more like 5'4"!) who are sick of teh freezing air pocket in the last 6 inches of bag, check out MEC's mummy's that come in sizes! Size S gave me the first truly warm camping sleep ever (and it was snowing!!!) Other company's are following suit, but try them on! Be careful with some, like the North Face womens bags-- only because they have cut them smaller all around for women, and there's not a lot of room in there. They've made the hips and shoulders pretty narrow for the lengths... I'm not a big girl and I was snug in the S. Other companies have added xtra insulation where ladies get colder (I know Oneplanet does this) but i'm not sure how much stock i'd put in this.
XX backpacks-- if you can find OnePlanet gear, (formerly Aiking, an Australian company) they make womens packs that fit fabulously for smaller frames, but they are still fully adjustable and durable as hell!
...


mclee


Oct 21, 2002, 5:57 PM
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The Sapphires didn't work very well for me, since they're unlined and they stretched out one size bigger. Yikes, if I had gotten them one size smaller they would have worked better, perhaps. I switched over to the La Sportiva Katana, and I couldn't ask for a better shoe.

I have the Arctery'x Isis, and I like the way it fits. Great harness!!


climbergirl15


Oct 28, 2002, 1:38 PM
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I have a pair of Scarpa Dominatrix's. They hurt but they haven't stetched yet. I have a really narrow foot and they fit great.


socialclimber


Nov 9, 2002, 10:23 AM
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The Petzl "Bonnie" is a female specific harness that I didn't see in your list Hillary. It may have been discontinued by now.
I think the womans specific chalk bag is designed a little bigger than regular chalk bags, just to give you gals some space for those little extras you just have to bring along like your nail file, spare lippy, cell phone, those little packets of tissues...Ok, ok. I'm leaving


karaleigh


Nov 19, 2002, 1:03 AM
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510 women's zlipper can be found online still on their website. www.fiveten.com


enigma


Nov 19, 2002, 3:07 AM
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Anyone interested in buying a brand new pair of red chili sauslito-gold color, too narrow for me size 6.5 p.m me please.

I like the black diamond too, and the mythos don't need any breaking in unlike my recent men. LOL


gretchino


Feb 27, 2003, 4:05 PM
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Have any of you ladies (or guys for that matter) tried "Mad Rock" shoes? I saw the add above and clicked to see where they're based (central California). They seem very inexpensive compared to some of the shoes I've purchased (YIKES!)...I'm just curious if anyone has tried them out. :)

Regarding harnesses: I have the Women's Petzl Corvus...very comfy! The only complaint I would give it is the non-adjustable leg loops...somtimes I wear thicker pants and have a hard time shimmy-ing the loops comfortably over my thighs...maybe I just have big thighs! :shock:

Thanks for any input!

...women's chalk bag...you've got to be kidding! :P


mwbtle


Feb 27, 2003, 7:30 PM
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Gretchino, there is a thread somewheres around here that has reviews on the madrocks. Pretty much everyone had good things to say about them, but most people had to send them back because they are very small. Its in the Gear-heads forum. ...hold on, I'll edit with the link...

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...iewtopic.php?t=23445


gretchino


Feb 27, 2003, 7:48 PM
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Thanks mwbtle! :D


mwbtle


Feb 27, 2003, 8:06 PM
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Sure thing! :)

BTW, I'm currently on the list for a pair of the hookers, so if you want me to let you know how they are for girly feet, let me know, and if I ever receive them, I'll let you know.


sarhawp


Feb 27, 2003, 8:38 PM
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Prana's female-specific chalk bag - LOVE IT!!!

Its smaller so I don't have to go fishing for the chalk way down at the bottom and it seems a bit curvier and fits the hand better as opposed to a big bucket feel. I hope that makes sense.

Although I have never climbed in the Scarpa Dominatrix, I did try them on at the store, and, eeek! thought they were the most uncomfortable thing ever! I could hardly even stand up in them (yes, sizing was correct). But thats just my feet; everyone is different. At least they're trying!


footoo


Feb 27, 2003, 11:10 PM
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[violet]When I seen the Prana chalk bag i had to have it. I love it, it's cute.[/violet] :D


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