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fearlessclimber


Feb 20, 2007, 3:46 AM
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omega pacific links
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Just bought 2 of them to complete my trad rack...racks are never complete. Definately not a piece to make a whole rack out of. For those that have do you like emm?


bako_prc


Feb 20, 2007, 5:40 AM
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Re: [fearlessclimber] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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i have the bigger one, and i like it. works good in odd shaped, deep, and slightly flared cracks.


chalkfree


Feb 20, 2007, 5:51 AM
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love mine, keep it on the back of the harness for those, times when the whole rack goes into the pitch leaving you with two nuts and one link cam to make an anchor.


kixx


Feb 20, 2007, 4:50 PM
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Love 'em.

Will go almost anywhere which makes them worth the weight. I keep them easy to reach for times when I can't be fiddlling with gear because they always go in securly and quickly.


cchildre


Feb 20, 2007, 4:56 PM
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Re: [fearlessclimber] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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Got a new cosmetic 2nd for $75 coming in Friday. Loved it at REI, will see how it fares out in the trenches.


spinney


Feb 20, 2007, 5:13 PM
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Re: [fearlessclimber] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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LOVE them! I have the #1 and there is nothing better for a new trad leader to plug in when pumped/sketched and can't tell if the placement would better take a .75 or 1 C4. We affectionately refer to it as the "Oh sh*t cam" and it never stays on the ground.


Partner j_ung


Feb 20, 2007, 8:35 PM
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Re: [spinney] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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I'm hearing a lot of good things about Link cams. Dingus freaking loved 'em. That's good enough for me.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Feb 20, 2007, 8:35 PM)


stymingersfink


Feb 21, 2007, 1:59 AM
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Re: [j_ung] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
I'm hearing a lot of good things about Link cams. Dingus freaking loved 'em. That's good enough for me.

Yeah, but would he pack a whole rack of them to his super-secret high Sierra crag, or would he have to enlist the services of a llama to get them there?

They probably have their place, but not in a 4" crack. That said, my attitude may just be gear-whore envy. Cool I have none, with no anticipated purchases on the event horizon.


fearlessclimber


Feb 21, 2007, 4:42 AM
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Partner climbinginchico


Feb 21, 2007, 5:38 AM
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Re: [fearlessclimber] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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Dude, it's extremely bad form to talk about pro deals, much less spray about how much they cost.

Very bad form.


stymingersfink


Feb 21, 2007, 6:44 AM
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Re: [climbinginchico] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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climbinginchico wrote:
Dude, it's extremely bad form to talk about pro deals, much less spray about how much they cost.

Very bad form.
better form might be to spray about how you got one for free, simply by fishing a fixed one out of a crackAngelic


8flood8


Feb 28, 2007, 6:38 PM
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Re: [climbinginchico] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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why is it bad form?

just because you don't have a pro deal somewhere? You probably could get a pro deal if you wanted.

Don't you like to know how much retail is marked up? Doesn't that make you a smarter consumer to know exactly what that kind of gear costs?

i wish he hadn't deleted it because then i wouldnt have to go look it up on the pro deal page.


Partner climbinginchico


Feb 28, 2007, 7:58 PM
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Re: [8flood8] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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8flood8 wrote:
why is it bad form?

just because you don't have a pro deal somewhere? You probably could get a pro deal if you wanted.

Don't you like to know how much retail is marked up? Doesn't that make you a smarter consumer to know exactly what that kind of gear costs?

i wish he hadn't deleted it because then i wouldnt have to go look it up on the pro deal page.

It's bad form because on EVERY SINGLE PRODEAL FORM I have ever filled out, they specifically ask that you: A) not reveal prodeal pricing; and B) Not advertise the fact that you get prodeals.

Retail gear is generally at a 40% margin, meaning the climbing shop barely makes anything off of it. I know this because I work at a gear shop. So I'm not complaining because I don't have access to prodeals. I'm disappointed when people abuse the privilege that prodeals are.


Partner holdplease2


Feb 28, 2007, 8:20 PM
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Re: [climbinginchico] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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Hey:

I have four link cams and they are all that I carry from .75 camalot size through gold camalot size.

TR Setup: If I'm going to set up a TR, I know that if I just carry 3 link cams to the top and maybe one bigger cam, I can set up a TR. You can place them anywhere.

Leading: When I'm leading its so awesome to know that I'm virtually never going to grab a cam off the rack that won't fit the placement! No more having to "go back for seconds" when you're pumped out of your mind.

Cracks with Internal Flares: The link cams can scrunch down really small to enter a crack that flares inside, wheras other cams would not be able to both fit through the opening of the crack and still have lobe contact within the flare.

Offset Cracks: These cams work just like hybred aliens, and are able to have one set of lobes fairly contracted while the other set are fairly expanded. Importantly, and unlike hybred aliens, they can also work like regular cams! Protecting slightly flared placements and pods is far more secure with Link cams.

Rack Supplement: I have some friends who insist on only bringing "A set of singles" or whatever when we climb. Yeah. Right. I like my pro. By carryin 3 link cams on my own, I can supplement the rack with a few pieces anywhere from fingers to cupped hands, meaning I can carry just three pieces and be waaaay more comfortable leading when we are out. The range of these cams is what makes this possible.

Weight: Yes, they may weigh slightly more than your average cam, but so what! I'm leading harder because I can place gear faster and more confidently with the link cams than with other cams, and can climb with fewer overall pieces on my rack.

Fall Holding:
For the record, I whipped onto a link cam the other day in a kind of odd placement and it held just fine. :)

I'm going to probably get a third set because it irritates me to have to use my C4s on long pitches. They are archaic (IMO) compared to the links.

-Kate.

(No, I didn't get them for free or even for a pro deal. I paid full retail and all four have been on my rack since January '06.)


zeke_sf


Mar 1, 2007, 1:51 AM
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Re: [holdplease2] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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^^^^Awesome!!! I'm going to feel SOOOOO good after I buy one tonight. Of course, I usually feel that way after buying new gear Wink.


fearlessclimber


Mar 1, 2007, 1:57 AM
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Re: [climbinginchico] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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climbinginchico wrote:
8flood8 wrote:
why is it bad form?

just because you don't have a pro deal somewhere? You probably could get a pro deal if you wanted.

Don't you like to know how much retail is marked up? Doesn't that make you a smarter consumer to know exactly what that kind of gear costs?

i wish he hadn't deleted it because then i wouldnt have to go look it up on the pro deal page.

It's bad form because on EVERY SINGLE PRODEAL FORM I have ever filled out, they specifically ask that you: A) not reveal prodeal pricing; and B) Not advertise the fact that you get prodeals.

Retail gear is generally at a 40% margin, meaning the climbing shop barely makes anything off of it. I know this because I work at a gear shop. So I'm not complaining because I don't have access to prodeals. I'm disappointed when people abuse the privilege that prodeals are.[/quote


Didnt mean to brag about it, I didnt know it was confidential.


zeke_sf


Mar 1, 2007, 4:47 AM
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AHHHHH!!! I feel SOOOOO good right now!!


Partner holdplease2


Mar 1, 2007, 5:02 AM
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Re: [zeke_sf] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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Yay Zeke! Dude, you're going to love it!

-Kate.


zeke_sf


Mar 1, 2007, 5:06 AM
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Re: [holdplease2] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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holdplease2 wrote:
Yay Zeke! Dude, you're going to love it!

-Kate.

I already am! We're going to try and find something dry in the Valley this weekend and place that baby!


Partner brent_e


Mar 1, 2007, 3:43 PM
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Re: [j_ung] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
I'm hearing a lot of good things about Link cams. Dingus freaking loved 'em. That's good enough for me.

i got to play with these in a gear shop. They look REALLY nice. I think i may add one when i can afford it, this thread gives me more reason to!!!


Partner climbinginchico


Mar 1, 2007, 11:52 PM
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Re: [holdplease2] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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Yeah, and on a useful note, I climbed with Kate's in Jtree, and the things definitely kick ass. They make some impossible placements possible. They feel solid and place nicely.

And, I received the red one as the greatest Valentine's day present EVER!


sheets


Mar 2, 2007, 6:43 AM
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Re: [climbinginchico] omega pacific links [In reply to]
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I recently bought the pair of Link cams.

Love 'em. The bestest crux piece since they're so versatile and place so easy.


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