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summerprophet
Mar 1, 2007, 7:43 PM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2004
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Can anyone tell me how bad the linkup of the two upper chimney pitches are? Just wondering if they are quite sustained or if there are spots to rest.
From the TR images they look rather flaring which sometimes means full body tension, rather than just the relaxing sit on your heal.
Just trying to suss out the stategy so my partner gets all the easy stuff.
Thanks
title's typo edited by thomasribiere (Mod)
(This post was edited by thomasribiere on Mar 2, 2007, 9:38 AM)
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vegastradguy
Mar 1, 2007, 7:52 PM
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dont link the upper two pitches.
the easiest way to do the chimneys is the following:
climb the first two pitches as one
climb the third pitch (easy chimney) to the base of the tower.
link the next two chimney pitches (pass the first set of bolts on the outside of the chimney). this is the really sustained part, but its not all that bad.
from here, go up to the next set of bolts that are on a nice ledge outside the upper chimney pitch. this pitch is offiwidth and face climbing.
finally, from that ledge, head up through the last chimney pitch and then to the top of the tower.
the last chimney pitch is significantly easier than the first two- but its also very run out (two bolts and a cam for its entire length- and the cam is at the very top of it).
the chimneys arent as bad as folks make them out to be. just put your head down and get through it. dont take too much gear (one set of cams with an extra #2 will do), and most importantly, DO NOT STOP when you hit the top of the tower. you may be tired, but push through- its face climbing up above, so its different movement and not as brutal.
hope that helps.
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billcoe_
Mar 1, 2007, 8:18 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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summerprophet wrote: Can anyone tell me .......... ... Just trying to suss out the stategy so my partner gets all the easy stuff. Thanks
 funny dude.
Epi TR with some pics and other links here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/...34/page/2#Post625334
Enjoy!
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fargoan
Mar 1, 2007, 9:10 PM
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vegasTG has much more experience out there than i; when we did it, we did the two as two long pitches; they both get to be LONG. we were swinging leads, which was good, because we each nearly puked on our lead.
the upper chimney (my lead) has quite a bit of drag if you try to link it all, so i think that breaking it up into three is the best idea. plus, though runout, it's not bad; the bolts help out quite a bit, and there are some face holds for your feet so you can stand and rest some.
have fun!
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grippedclimer
Mar 1, 2007, 9:19 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2004
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Thsoe chimneys are cake. Just crusie up till you run out of rope yo and set a belay.
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deadhorse
Mar 2, 2007, 7:40 AM
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I've never seen it, but it's Epinephrine. it was bugging me since I just came from my Abnormal Psyc class.
enjoi.
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harihari
Mar 3, 2007, 8:05 AM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2004
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don't link them. link all the other pitches on the route. and you can do it in 12 or 13 pitches. start early, move fast, do NOT bring a huge rack and bring those headlamps cos the descent (whiel easy) has a lot of twists and turns. start at dawn.
the crux is the end of the first chimney pitch (#3.5 camalot) a weird flake stickign into the chimney. One burly move and you're done.
Chimney pitch 2-- step down and out, clip bolt, and airy but easy moves up to next belay station
Chimeny pitch 3-- you can burrow up the back, and thrash and scare yourself shitless (and check out loads of stuck fear gear), or you step out, and slide your back up one side, feet up the other, clipping bolts and using the odd cam, very straightforward.
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