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kane_schutzman
Mar 6, 2007, 2:34 AM
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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How does one make an anchor in a Vertical crack? Where the peices of protection are above one another, none of this perfect side by side shit I see in some of the pictures on here.
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zuegma
Mar 6, 2007, 2:40 AM
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you could use the rope and place a clove hitch on each piece, or if they are close you could use a cord-o-lette or extened the highest pieces with slings and tie a cord-o-lette or whatever type of anchor you use.
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billl7
Mar 6, 2007, 3:19 AM
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According to the new Long/Gaines Anchor book, the Equalette excels at equalizing placements in a vertical cracks. Even so, most photos of it are gonna look a little like a mess of spaghetti.
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billl7
Mar 6, 2007, 4:33 AM
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You asked how you build the anchor. If you were building with an equalette ...
Take a look at this perfect side-by-side shit of the equalette. (I can't take credit for the picture - it came out of a recent massive thread with Sliding X in the title.)
Notice 3 things: i) the cord is one big loop, probably joined with a double fishermans; ii) the cord is attached to the 4 biners above with clove hitches; iii) the 2 biners at the bottom are each attached to one strand and their sliding left or right is limited by overhand or figure 8 knots - the limiter knots.
So that's the horizontal side-by-side shit you mentioned. Since I don't think a picture of it vertical will look all that great, here's a description of how to build it (credit to the Long/Gaine's new anchor book - an inexpensive but very good book to buy IMHO).
a) clove hitch in to the lowest piece first such that the limiter knots will be a little below this;
b) clove hitch into the other pieces such that when the 2 bottom biners (lockers) are oriented in the direction of pull they are roughly in between the limiter knots and so can slide/equalize as needed.
c) adjust the clove hitches to equalize between individual pieces when load is in direction of pull;
If you need one side/arm of the equalette to only go to one biner rather than two (e.g., for a three piece anchor) then tie off a bite in that arm with an overhand; this should make 2 small loops to hook into the biner.
Build it in your kitchen first. If the Equalette really turns you on then make a contribution to Long/Gaines/the publisher and buy the book. Lots of other good details in there.
Bill L
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kane_schutzman
Mar 6, 2007, 4:41 AM
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Thanks alot man, you hit the nail on the head. I think I ll try and build one right now, with cord though.
Been looking at the book, and I think I ll buy it now!
Thanks
(This post was edited by kane_schutzman on Mar 6, 2007, 4:43 AM)
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coastal_climber
Mar 6, 2007, 5:10 AM
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Place two pieces of pro, and use webbing and equalize it, then build the rest.
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