buy an atc guide. You'll never look at your reverso again.

I'm heading out on a trip where I will probably be doing some climbing as a party of three. I've done this before using my reverso to bring up two seconds at once, drastically cutting down the time required to do a route. On this trip, however, I have a brand spanking new pair of double ropes I plan to start using, and was wondering: is it safe to simultaneously belay two seconds on double ropes (i.e. one on each strand)?

Thanks,
Tim

I don't think any of the rope manufacturers advocate belaying a second on a single half rope or twin. Their scientists may be smarter than me, so I go with their specs.

Mammut does.

Half ropes, with regard to strength and
weight, lie between single and twin ropes.
They only offer standard safety when they are
used as a pair. But here you have the choice
between twin rope technique, where both
ropes run parallel through the protection and
half rope technique, where the «left» and
«right» ropes runs separately through different
protection points. This technique allows
friction to be reduced in the case where protection
points are widely spread and reduces
impact force. This is of benefit when climbing
traditionally protected routes. A belay method
which enables the independent control of
each rope must be used. Half ropes are tested
singly with a 55 kg mass and must withstand
five standard falls. They come in diameters
from 8 to 9 mm and weigh 41 to 55 grams per
meter. In single strand form they are suitable
to belay two seconds.

http://www.mammut.ch/...ilfibel_E_050722.pdf


(emphasis added by me)

Assuming reasonably competent belaying, the seconds should not experience any serious falls, so one strand is good enough.

Additionally, and I might be completely off base here, how much of a difference does the 2mm really make if a large piece of limestone falls on the rope? If a rock falls on the rope and severes it enough to snap a 8.6mm double but doesn't severe it enough to snap a 10.2/5. How much strength is actually left in the rope at that point?

i do it all the time and it works perfectly (PS reverso i feel is better because if you are at a bolted anchor with a ATC guide you cant just put both draws through it top part like you can a reverso)

Actually, the ATC guide will accept 2 biners, but not all biners. I know for sure that 2 of my superflys or nanos go in that hole quite easily. Some other newer, smaller biners would probably work as well. Now my older ovals? Forget about it. I do wish that hole was a hair larger though.

And I would feel totally comfortable following on a double rope so long as the pitch didn't have any really sharp edges

I'm heading out on a trip where I will probably be doing some climbing as a party of three. I've done this before using my reverso to bring up two seconds at once, drastically cutting down the time required to do a route. On this trip, however, I have a brand spanking new pair of double ropes I plan to start using, and was wondering: is it safe to simultaneously belay two seconds on double ropes (i.e. one on each strand)?

Thanks,
Tim

Also, if the particular pitch is especially difficult for your seconds you would be well advised to bring them up one at a time so you can concentrate on coaching and belaying.