Mar 12, 2007, 3:59 PM
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Big Wall Rack Poll: Simple or Segmented
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Free climbing, I prefer using a segmented gear sling. As I've started aiding, I find I'd also prefer a segmented wall rack (versus something with one or two loops on a side). I've seen similar sentiments in prior threads, and after talking to a wall rack manufacturer was curious how a poll would fare. I figure this may provide them some good feedback.
For the aid climbers... do you prefer: a) simple wall rack (1 or 2 loops each side) b) segmented wall rack (3+ loops each side)
(This post was edited by AveryNelson on Mar 12, 2007, 7:10 PM)
Mar 12, 2007, 4:23 PM
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Re: [AveryNelson] Big Wall Rack Poll: Simple or Segmented
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I prefer a simple wall rack, so I can gather the entire rack and toss it behind me for the occasional free move. That being said, I also look for a full strength rack for the occasional frog step move and small loops at collarbone level for storing items I expect to use repeatedly (keep the small nuts handy while cruising a seam or keep the etriers up high if I am on a slab to prevent them clipping a piece of gear)
That being said, I am not a huge aid climber. I am not hammering pins, or setting new routes, just cruising the classics like so many before me.
Mar 15, 2007, 12:07 AM
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Re: [AveryNelson] Big Wall Rack Poll: Simple or Segmented
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when you mean 3 loops, do you mean a single loop with 3 individual pockets, or three loops which hang progressively lower?
Two loops per side, one above the other (Misty Big Wall Chest Harness) is what I like, for the reasons stated above : it's easy to throw the bulk of the rack around back and out of the way when necessary. In addition to this, its possible to pull the bulk of the rack around front when you have to reach that one little-used item you rack all the way around back to keep it out of the way.
The segmented racks suck for this, IMHO. I've used a friends Metolius gear sling (segmented style) once when free-climbing - hated it. Later when i purchased a full rack from a retiring climber it came with one. I sold it immediately. They work for some people (must, or they wouldn't make them), but they're not for me.
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