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trantrum
Mar 12, 2007, 8:20 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2007
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Word is that one of the popular routes called "Arachnophobia" at Lake Lincoln has been chipped. Halfway up the route at the crux, the hold which was about a pad deep is now three pads deep on your hand. The hold wasn't chipped by a hammer or chisel either, but by someone with the initials SF aiding the route! The route was a .10a, now a .9. Don't aid classic routes to show off and don't bolt rocks without permission. I know you've done illegal bolting!! Don't ruin it for other climbers/boulders by self-centeredness or to get your name out by feeding your ego. Way to ruin one of the few .10's out there.
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scrux
Apr 1, 2007, 1:56 AM
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Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 35
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If a route is done on aid and a placement blows...this is not chipping, this is accidental, not premeditated.
Thanks for your rant, sounds like you just want to single someone out and complain...
I love the ability of anonymous cowardice rants.
Good job.
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trantrum
Apr 2, 2007, 6:40 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2007
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Chipping=to cut or break off. You broke a hold off by aiding. Lincoln Lake are all mostly single pitches. This isn't Yosemite. WTF are you thinking? Premeditated or not, we wouldn't be discussing this if you had thought otherwise. Strong as you claim to be, why are you aiding on a single pitch 5.10a Mr. 5.13b man? Practice on other unclimbed routes. Me "ranting" on here is saving you from public humility.  Thanks for not denying your illegal bolting either. And who knows how many holds you've actually chipped using other tools.
I appreciate the good job comment 
p.s. Scrotum+Crux=Scrux
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madflash
Apr 3, 2007, 2:52 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 77
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Yeah I have to agree scrux. Blowing off holds on popular moderate single pitch sport lines is no bueno. I can appreciate that it was an accident, but still it ain't no good. If you are trying to polish up on your aid climbing, please go aid something other than sport routes. There are numerous quality cracks all over arkansas that can be aided up completely clean, and I will personally guarantee that no one will get pissed. Also there is a pretty serious aid line at Sam's Throne on the Throne Proper called Dreadlock Rasta A2+, I think. Besides it could use getting beat out a couple of more times, maybe open it up some for my sausage fingers. Also there is a 3 pitch aid line on the buffalo that is hard and scary as hell...I have backed off of it twice. If you want beta on it just pm me. Other than that stop F%cking up routes. The rock gods will be most displeased
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unrooted
Apr 3, 2007, 3:14 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 840
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Scrux, you need to take a hammer back to that route and fix it ASAP!!!
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nuts_r_us
Apr 3, 2007, 3:29 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2005
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trantrum wrote: Me "ranting" on here is saving you from public humility.
Hee hee, back to high school for you.
Just think, now more people can get on that 5.9. This guy did a service for all the weaklings!
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rhu
Apr 4, 2007, 2:07 AM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 242
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No wonder your other nickname is "Tool." Way to go "Scrux."
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crzdriver
May 15, 2007, 4:59 AM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2002
Posts: 198
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rhu
May 17, 2007, 6:41 AM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2003
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The difference is that he does this sort of stuff pretty frequently.
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cybond
May 17, 2007, 7:44 AM
Post #10 of 10
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Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 12
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trantrum wrote: Chipping=to cut or break off. You broke a hold off by aiding. Lincoln Lake are all mostly single pitches. This isn't Yosemite. WTF are you thinking? Premeditated or not, we wouldn't be discussing this if you had thought otherwise. Strong as you claim to be, why are you aiding on a single pitch 5.10a Mr. 5.13b man? Practice on other unclimbed routes. Me "ranting" on here is saving you from public humility. Thanks for not denying your illegal bolting either. And who knows how many holds you've actually chipped using other tools. I appreciate the good job comment p.s. Scrotum+Crux=Scrux
Oook...may I point out it was practice. Much like you practicing on a 5.7...But this actually requires balls. Heaven forbid we practice a different style of climbing than which the climb was originally established...get over it.
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