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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 15, 2007, 3:55 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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What a sad story. My condolences to Ian's family and friends.
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fredhamann
Mar 21, 2007, 5:53 PM
Post #27 of 32
(636 views)
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Registered: Mar 21, 2007
Posts: 1
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tradrenn,
I'm from California, climbed RRG in Sept/Oct of last year and if it was me with whom you had this conversation I apologize for not recognizing your blog photo (the image is small and my peepers have lost some, you know, youth).
I have had two friends fall, one of which falls I witnessed. Both lived, but broke a lot of key parts. (They had not completed their knot, and no one double-checked the knot. I always double-check now, and do not let annoyed climbers deter me. Duh.) Images of friends decking do not leave your memory ever. Try to avoid them.
With this in mind, to all beginning climbers:
I ask this of every belayer: always repeat (confirm) your climber's command/request before taking action. Make certain you heard correctly. This ain't golf. Make safety and caution your habit.
When voice commands cannot be clearly heard, I judge the circumstance. Unless I'm rigidly certain that "OFF BELAY" is what I heard, I do not do that.
Generally, at the end of a climb, unless we've discussed rappelling, an "off belay" command can't be right, can it? My climber will need me to lower him. I provide enough rope slack to allow my climber to complete whatever procedure my experience tells me he or she has undertaken up there, but I keep the brake ON. Worst case, my climber is annoyed. Okay. At the end of the rope in my actual hands is an actual mortal person.
Fred
[reply]
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tradrenn
Mar 21, 2007, 11:21 PM
Post #28 of 32
(613 views)
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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Fred
Thank you for climbing with me, I have learn a very important lesson from you, I can only be grateful for that.
Thanks for giving me shiet when I fucked up.
(FYI I never repeated that mistake since)
I appreciate it, thank you very much.
P.S. Cleaning your gear was also fun, no one else, so far, did that to me.
Voyteck
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fenix83
Moderator
Mar 25, 2007, 9:17 PM
Post #29 of 32
(570 views)
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Registered: Feb 23, 2004
Posts: 2397
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Hey E., really sorry to hear that. Our passion is a stricy mistress who doesn't tolerate mistakes.
The loss of any climber is a hit to the community, especially if he was a good guy. My thoughts and prayers are with him, his family and friends in these tough times.
Lots'a love.
-F
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rockguide
Mar 25, 2007, 11:07 PM
Post #30 of 32
(544 views)
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
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Sorry for your loss - always so unexpected.
B
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rockguide
Mar 25, 2007, 11:11 PM
Post #31 of 32
(540 views)
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
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cchildre wrote: [quote "zeke_sf" ... I always call for 'big slack' when I am feeding the anchors. Further, when I run through the chains, I never untie fully from the rope, by putting a bite in the rope and running that through the anchor, figure 8 into a locker to the belay loop, then I can safely untie and lower. I save 'off belay' for when I am rapping, my perferred way of getting down safely. I hope this doesn't hijack this thread into a techical debate. The real focus in on the loss and how to avoid them in the future.
I agree - I call for "slack" if I am to lower and "off belay" or "secure" when I am going to rappel.
If I am belaying and I hear "Off belay" or "Secure" - I always ask, by name: "Hey _____, are you going to rappel"
If they say yes, I take them off belay and say "Ok _____ you are off belay and on your own". If they look down, I toss the rope aside.
I also watch - there should be a rope end coming down pdq. In sport climbing, I believe the belayer is on the job until the climber is on the ground.
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toejam
Mar 26, 2007, 7:09 AM
Post #32 of 32
(519 views)
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 358
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I don't know if anyone is tracking it, but subjectively it seems like about 80% of all climbing accidents are exactly this scenario. I never take my climber off belay at the top unless we have agreed that he is going to rap, or until he is clearly pulling up rope for a rap. I also protect myself at the start of any lower by holding the other side of the rope until I can feel that the belayer has me.
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