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socalbolter
Feb 15, 2007, 1:22 AM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 796
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climbsomething
Feb 15, 2007, 1:41 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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The road in 
I'm not very strong so I'll only give you the fun warm-ups I'm most familiar with:
-Wishbone (aesthetic 11a sandbag)
-Milkbone (short, 3-move-wonder 10a, but you have to check out the stacked handlebar hold.)
-Clean Slate (given 12a but most of the moves are about 11a-b'ish and pretty excellent)
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socalbolter
Feb 15, 2007, 2:08 AM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
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Thanks.
Please ask the other Arizonians you know of that frequent the area to chime in.
I would want to hit some of the harder routes, but don't want to miss out on the best of the 10's and 11's.
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bodytag
Mar 6, 2007, 2:27 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2002
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Roughrider, Cold Fussion, and J-Bone Mem. Highway.....long and strong.
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socalbolter
Mar 26, 2007, 11:45 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
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OK, so after having taken a few trips there, I am seriously wondering why we don't hear more about this crag?
The road in sucks, but the 4x4 section is a small price to pay for what lies at the end of the road.
I've now climbed many of the existing routes and added a few of my own and have to say that anyone at all interested in limestone sport climbing should make the trip. Those that like to bolt routes should definitely make the trip.
I haven't climbed many of the easier routes at the crag, but the local developers have done a great job of bolting all the way down into the single digits and there is a vast amount of potential for more from that level up to the 5.13 and 5.14 grades.
Some of the tufa features are a bit fragile and there is a bit of "coral" texture on some of the rock, but overall the climbing is amazing.
There are also several routes that do not appear in the outdated online guide. I would suggest trying to hook up with locals if possible to get the best beta, although I've had decent luck with just picking cool-looking routes and jumping on them.
One side of the canyon gets morning shade and the other afternoon shade so, other than in the heat of summer, I would expect that you could find comfortable temps for most of the year.
I have been very impressed with the quality of the routes I've been on and will definitely be back for more.
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