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punk_rocker333
Mar 25, 2007, 8:05 PM
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Do pro climbers like Sharma, Graham, Kinder and all those other ape-like sportos bolt their own routes? I've never seen footage of these guys doing the dirty deed, just climbing them. Can anyone enlighten me? Kind of like the question as to whether bands write their own songs or not, eh?
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flamer
Mar 25, 2007, 8:56 PM
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Yes they do.
I remember a quote from Sharma a long time ago...I can't quote him directly but he said something about bolting an Arete PNM and how they didn't know if it would even go free...they just bolted it and climbed it....it ended up going at like 5.14a.
..and it was right next to a popular trail.
josh
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musicman1586
Mar 25, 2007, 9:12 PM
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Yeah, as far as recent events go, pretty sure Sharma and Sonnie Trotter bolted Dream Catcher (was shown in Dosage 4, don't know if they said anything about that, only read about this) and let's see, David Graham bolted Coup de Grace 5.15a (in a rain storm at that because the route is so overhanging it didn't get wet). Think Graham also bolted the Fly, but don't quote me on that, just trying to remember things off the top of my head.
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jakedatc
Mar 26, 2007, 1:05 AM
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I thought Dave had bolted The Fly but i was corrected by Mark Sprague.. who says "someone else" bolted it haha
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1379550;#1379550
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charman
Mar 26, 2007, 1:31 AM
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punk_rocker333 wrote: Do pro climbers like Sharma, Graham, Kinder and all those other ape-like sportos bolt their own routes? I've never seen footage of these guys doing the dirty deed, just climbing them. Can anyone enlighten me? Kind of like the question as to whether bands write their own songs or not, eh?
Dani Andrada is one of the top, he has bolted a lot a lot of routes
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miavzero
Mar 26, 2007, 2:43 AM
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Graham and Sharma have both bolted and climbed a handful of routes, but many of "their" hard first ascents are projects that they redpointed after someone else did the real work of envisioning and equiping the line.
In most cases, these lines were open projects, or the person who bolted the route gave permission for them to climb it. Unfortunatley, Graham has been known to ignore red tags, and even stole a couple routes from Jeff Pederson after he had been told to stay off of them.
I personally don't care if people redpoint my routes before I do, but believe that one should respect the wishes of the route's equipper.
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miademus
Mar 27, 2007, 5:47 PM
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well i think if you're a pro climber then it's even more fun and challenging to bolt your own route....
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miademus
Mar 27, 2007, 5:49 PM
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Well here the guy who bolts the route has only permission to name the route...he has no other rights.....Infact bolting a route here needs also no permission from anywhere, hows it that going over there?
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nthusiastj
Mar 27, 2007, 6:11 PM
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I believe they person who does all the work usually gets to have the first go at sending the route.
It's kinda weak for someone to just hop on after all of your hard work.
It would be kinda like laying the groundwork wining and dining a woman, then some dude jumping in while your putting on your condom.
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miademus
Mar 27, 2007, 6:19 PM
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In reply to: wining and dining a woman, then some dude jumping in while your putting on your condom.
hahah i like the intention...
but lets say the person bolted the route can't red point it in two weeks....or so?what then
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devils_advocate
Mar 27, 2007, 6:21 PM
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nthusiastj wrote: It would be kinda like laying the groundwork wining and dining a woman, then some dude jumping in while your putting on your condom.
Bwahahahahahaha...
You heard it here first kids, don't wear condoms, too risky.
(This post was edited by devils_advocate on Mar 27, 2007, 6:22 PM)
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redpoint73
Mar 27, 2007, 6:21 PM
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miavzero wrote: Graham and Sharma have both bolted and climbed a handful of routes,
Yeah? Name the routes that Dave Graham bolted.
I am fairly certain (but not 100%) that Graham has never placed a bolt in his life.
I think you are wrong, but feel free to prove otherwise.
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wanlessrm
Mar 27, 2007, 6:22 PM
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Jump when you get to the anchors!
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vegasguy
Mar 27, 2007, 6:48 PM
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I'm pretty sure he bolted his climb Coup De Grace, in Ticino, Swiss. If you want more I'm pretty sure I can find more of his routes.
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olderic
Mar 27, 2007, 7:05 PM
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redpoint73 wrote: miavzero wrote: Graham and Sharma have both bolted and climbed a handful of routes, Yeah? Name the routes that Dave Graham bolted. I am fairly certain (but not 100%) that Graham has never placed a bolt in his life. I think you are wrong, but feel free to prove otherwise.
When Dave and his amigos started feeling their oats at Rumney (~7-8 years ago) they attempted to bolt some of their own stuff. Typically it didn't go so well (witness the original job on the Bill Clinton Project). Since then Team Tough and their spawn have for the most part fixed up the bolts that are on worthwhile routes or projects. Since then also Dave may have learned to do a better job.
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lodi5onu
Mar 27, 2007, 7:15 PM
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yeah, graham even describes bolting coupe de grace during a rainy day in the dosage 4 trailer
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redpoint73
Mar 27, 2007, 8:03 PM
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Not satisfied with your "I'm pretty sure", I decided to prove myself wrong:
9. Congratulations for Coup de Grace (9a+) that you sent in November 2005. Please describe in brief the route, especially the crux section, your overall experience in it and how was working on it? Did you celebrate the ascent?
Coup de Grace! That's my favorite route I have ever done. It's very unique, since it's on a boulder. The line is amazing, a steep line out the overhanging side of a massive bloc in a green valley. The route overhangs an ancient riverbed, so its very cozy, nice smooth rocks, open space, river, field, everything nice all at once! I found the route in May 05, exploring a new valley, and I was walking down the river, when all of the sudden, it was there. I guessed there wouldn't be any holds, but as I walked underneath it, I noticed that, yeah, there's holds! Big deal, since all the other big boulders are practically blank. I bolted on a miserable rainy day, and began trying it as soon as it was dry!
-Interview on 8a.nu.
So there ya go! 
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