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5.9+ routes, what r they like?

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dynosore

Mar 27, 2007, 9:00 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
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Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

5.9+R means RUN away! Pirate

ryanb

Mar 27, 2007, 9:09 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2004
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Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Think of 5.9+ as the hardest climb a solid climber could on sight in a pair of hiking boots. Its more of a trad grade often applied to dead verticle cracks with solid jams.

miademus

Mar 27, 2007, 9:10 PM
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Registered: Nov 8, 2005
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Re: [petsfed] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

In reply to:

There was a time when you could put it out of your mind, leave it all behind
There was a time, that time is gone
-- Uncle Tupelo

whoes Tupelo?

petsfed

Mar 27, 2007, 9:27 PM
Post #29 of 71 (2006 views)
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

miademus wrote:

In reply to:

There was a time when you could put it out of your mind, leave it all behind
There was a time, that time is gone
-- Uncle Tupelo

whoes Tupelo?

Uncle Tupelo is an alt-country band named after the town Elvis Presley was born in. Parts of the band went on to form the band Wilco.

billl7

Mar 27, 2007, 9:34 PM
Post #30 of 71 (1999 views)
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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Re: [billcoe_] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

In case it escaped anyone, miademus' profile indicates he is from Iran and so the questions are probably sincere.

Edit: Never mind. BTW, have you ever seen a more superb display of a lack of sophistication or worldliness than the above statement? ... hook, line, and sinker.

(This post was edited by billl7 on Mar 28, 2007, 4:19 AM)

jammer

Mar 27, 2007, 9:35 PM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
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Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

miademus wrote:

In reply to:

There was a time when you could put it out of your mind, leave it all behind
There was a time, that time is gone
-- Uncle Tupelo

whoes Tupelo?

Your thread has more twist to it then an ol country road ... with bridges for you trolls.

kachoong

Mar 27, 2007, 9:48 PM
Post #32 of 71 (1979 views)
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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Re: [jammer] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Almost all 5.9+ routes that I've climbed have been harder than most 10a climbs I've climbed.

miademus

Mar 27, 2007, 9:58 PM
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Re: [ryanb] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

This explanation enlightens me, really thx.

lostparrot

Mar 27, 2007, 11:57 PM
Post #34 of 71 (1934 views)
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Registered: Jan 28, 2007
Posts: 149

Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

How about a 3 foot roof on a 5.4 route? Devil's Lake-called boyscout

trenchdigger

Mar 28, 2007, 12:05 AM
Post #35 of 71 (1932 views)
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447

Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

miademus wrote:

granite_grrl wrote:

miademus wrote:

so the holds are all jugs ....no steep walls?

Sure there are steep 5.9s, and 5.9s with roofs. There are also very thin face and slab 5.9s.

To complicate things a 5.9 in one area might actually be way easier/harder than the 5.10s that you've played on.

Way too freakn' subjective.

it's so what against of what i've been told...roof and still 5.9 ?

JTree 5.7... Geronimo Roof. More of a boulder problem with a real bad landing, but whatever... Check out the vid.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ronimo_Roof_154.html

granite_grrl

Mar 28, 2007, 12:14 AM
Post #36 of 71 (1921 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

miademus wrote:

granite_grrl wrote:

miademus wrote:

so the holds are all jugs ....no steep walls?

it's so what against of what i've been told...roof and still 5.9 ?

Nah, they're usually more like 5.6 Laugh

lucander

Mar 28, 2007, 12:15 AM
Post #37 of 71 (1919 views)
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Registered: Jul 2, 2003
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Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Troll. Come to the Gunks and climb a few five nine's like MF, Bonnie's Roof, Face to Face, et. al. and compare them to your tens.
dl

brent_e

Mar 28, 2007, 12:18 AM
Post #38 of 71 (1916 views)
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111

Re: [petsfed] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

petsfed wrote:

miademus wrote:

In reply to:

There was a time when you could put it out of your mind, leave it all behind
There was a time, that time is gone
-- Uncle Tupelo

whoes Tupelo?

Uncle Tupelo is an alt-country band named after the town Elvis Presley was born in. Parts of the band went on to form the band Wilco.

wilco rocks.

great band.

jderekforrester

Mar 28, 2007, 12:32 AM
Post #39 of 71 (1903 views)
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Registered: Oct 15, 2002
Posts: 104

Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

9+ means certain death. Most likely by small rock gnomes who jump out and bite your fingers so you fall.

robdotcalm

Mar 28, 2007, 3:57 AM
Post #40 of 71 (1875 views)
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027

Re: [petsfed] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

petsfed wrote:

robdotcalm wrote:

In the book Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming, the author states, “Also, 5.9+ has tended historically to be a generic rating, often encompassing climbs harder than 5.7 but less difficult than 10d.»

Does that give you a clear idea of what the rating means?
Cheers,
Rob.calm

Be assured, that as always, I carefully checked the original source material.

More cheers,
rob.calm

Did you read that, or are you just recalling it off the top of your head? Wink

stymingersfink

Mar 28, 2007, 4:09 AM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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Re: [robdotcalm] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

depends on who put the thing up, and when. a lowe brothers route here in the wasatch once rated 5.7 by the FA in the late '60's now goes at 5.9, so when you get on one of their .9+ routes it's anybodies guess, but definitely no easier than 5.10

atg200

Mar 28, 2007, 5:12 AM
Post #42 of 71 (1862 views)
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Re: [stymingersfink] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

See the little people? They are on a 5.9 in the Black Canyon. No bolts.

Here is a nice 5.9 in Eldo. No bolts.

Half the body is in the awful slot. Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest - 5.9. One really bad bolt from back in the day.

stymingersfink

Mar 28, 2007, 5:36 AM
Post #43 of 71 (1851 views)
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: [atg200] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

atg200 wrote:

No bolts.... 5.9 in Eldo. No bolts.... 5.9. One really bad bolt from back in the day.

I think of .9+ as a trad rating, in which case the occasional star-drive or bolted belays are a luxury anyway.

Sport weenies tend to be so obsessed with ratings that they would rate it 5.number+letter anyway, if only to feel better about themselves. Sly

miademus

Mar 28, 2007, 10:15 AM
Post #44 of 71 (1829 views)
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Registered: Nov 8, 2005
Posts: 511

Re: [granite_grrl] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

granite_grrl wrote:

miademus wrote:

granite_grrl wrote:

miademus wrote:

so the holds are all jugs ....no steep walls?

it's so what against of what i've been told...roof and still 5.9 ?

Nah, they're usually more like 5.6 Laugh

[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/14396-largest_76893.jpg[/image]

...no shit?! Shocked

miademus

Mar 28, 2007, 10:17 AM
Post #45 of 71 (1829 views)
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Registered: Nov 8, 2005
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Re: [atg200] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

....what's the main reason no one bolts the routes?

robbovius

Mar 28, 2007, 12:15 PM
Post #46 of 71 (1807 views)
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Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406

Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

miademus wrote:

....what's the main reason no one bolts the routes?

they're afraid the Ken Nichols will come and chop them.

wanderlustmd

Mar 28, 2007, 12:46 PM
Post #47 of 71 (1790 views)
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150

Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

This thread combined with your siggy tells me that you are beyond insecure.

(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Mar 28, 2007, 1:40 PM)

granite_grrl

Mar 28, 2007, 12:57 PM
Post #48 of 71 (1784 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [wanderlustmd] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

wanderlustmd wrote:

This thread combined with your siggy tells me that your are beyond insecure.

Ha! That's funny. I don't know if I've ever really looked at this sig before.

In reply to:

"Climb as a MAN or fall down as S###"

Funny!!!!

atg200

Mar 28, 2007, 2:16 PM
Post #49 of 71 (1755 views)
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317

Re: [miademus] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Give miademus a break. His English is better than your Farsi.

In the USA, bolting is generally considered a last resort if you are unable to place gear to protect the climbing. There are a lot of sport climbers here who do little but clip bolts, but there are also many climbers who prefer climbing naturally protected lines without bolts. I very rarely climb sport routes, but I am more interested in climbing long routes and getting to summits than I am in difficulty or interesting movement.

wanderlustmd

Mar 28, 2007, 3:44 PM
Post #50 of 71 (1733 views)
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150

Re: [atg200] 5.9+ routes, what r they like? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

My comment had absolutely nothing to do with his level of english. I can't decide if half his posts are trolls or not

Like the gem in the community about getting into a fistfight or some such nonsense...

(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Mar 28, 2007, 3:45 PM)

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