|
|
|
|
winkwinklambonini
Sep 21, 2002, 10:31 PM
Post #1 of 7
(1897 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 17, 2002
Posts: 1579
|
If you were going to teach someone new how to climb trad how would you do it?
Here are some of my thoughts:
Trad climbing is better than everything else, so that is where all complete climbers must end up eventually(tick tick sharma). It has a completely different set of ethics from sport. For example: If I say I climb 5.9, that means that I am confident I could walk up to any traditional or sport 5.9 any where and probably not fall. If a sporto said they climb 5.12, that means they once managed to Pinkpoint a project of thiers. The no-fall ethic is pure and ensures a long life. On the flip side however, it limits level that one would eventually reach.
Sport climbers gain technique faster, and become comfortable with the idea of taking a fall. However, sport climbers treat climbing like a status game, which it is not.
So is it better to teach technique and fear control in a highly efficient environment, then ethics and real skills like self-rescue; or start slow and enjoy the view?
|
|
|
|
|
wlderdude
Sep 21, 2002, 11:05 PM
Post #2 of 7
(1897 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
|
Dude, you are thinking too much.
Climbing is about 2 things.
1. Having fun
2. Buying cool gizmos
Sport climbing does quite a bit of #1 and trad does a lot of both. Gym climbing can do #1, but not much of #2.
If you are in it to impress peolpe, then you are simply vain.
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Sep 22, 2002, 4:24 AM
Post #3 of 7
(1897 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
I think you have summed up the philosophies and attitudes quite succintly and impressively. Thank you, but I don't think I can answer the question. It's obviously a very personal one.
Would a combination of both be the best of both worlds?
Safety would be the prime consideration no matter what path one chooses IMO.
Bill
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Sep 22, 2002, 4:59 AM
Post #4 of 7
(1897 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
You've got some good analysis, winkwink, but I fear that you are making some rash generalizations, and dividing climbing types tooo much.
I climb both sport and trad extensively, depending on what I feel like. They help and feed off of each other; I don't necessarilly think that trad is on a higher level or anything like that.
Furthermore, guess what? I do both at my limits! I work trad lines just as I would sport lines, provided that the gear is good. I do not go onto a trad route with the assumption that I will NOT fall, as you imply traddies do.
If a route looks fun, I will do it, regardless of its type, protection, or rating. Nuff said.
cheers,
Paul
|
|
|
|
|
doosh
Sep 22, 2002, 4:02 PM
Post #5 of 7
(1897 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 521
|
In boldering there is no "versus."
Live that way and free your MIND to enjoy an unclouded view...
|
|
|
|
|
mcfoley
Sep 22, 2002, 11:39 PM
Post #6 of 7
(1897 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 644
|
I learned sport 1st, got that dialed, then learned to follow trad, the graduated to lead trad(lots to know!!!)
mf
|
|
|
|
|
beyond_gravity
Sep 23, 2002, 12:48 AM
Post #7 of 7
(1897 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 5078
|
Freak!
My Uncle climbed The Nose back in the 70's with Pat Little John, and with all passive pro. He has no problem with me and my cuz sport climbing, falling, stick clipping or the like.
I do climb trad at a crappy level of about 5.7, and I have yet to fall on trad gear (I dont trust it worth a darn)
I whip at will on bolts.
I spend all day on a 10 foot problem.
I dont feel bad if I french free.
I climb on plastic.
Climbing is about having fun. If i'm not having fun on a route I come down and find somthing else to climb
|
|
|
|
|
|
