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timm
Apr 4, 2007, 5:53 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2005
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I use these when I guide long easy routes. They are comfortable and I sized mine generously. They are not a high-performance shoe and feel very big and bulky to me.
They also are comfy in cracks (or at least in cracks that they fit into).
I hate the rubber. I resole them with C4 immediately upon purchase.
Just my $0.02
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microbarn
Apr 4, 2007, 6:15 PM
Post #3 of 12
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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
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I would not recommend them to anyone.
They are stiff and padded. So, if you want that in a shoe these could be appropriate for you. However, I think they took these attributes to an extreme.
They are also insulated, stiff, and nonconforming. These shoes are as close to climbing in insulated tennis shoes as you can get. The insulation makes me feel like I am standnig in pools of water all day while climbing.
I have worn the Mythos and would easily recommend those over this shoe. They were stiffer then the average shoe, but the shoe was maliable enough to be formed by the laces when tied tight. They also don't have insulation to make your feet sweat. The fit was still not aggressive so the shoe didn't cramp my foot through the day.
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chadnsc
Apr 4, 2007, 6:29 PM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449
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I've had several climbing buddies tell me that they are great in uniformed cracks where no face climbing will be done (think Indian Creek). Many have told me that the high amount of padding and rubber make them terrible at edging.
As one of my climbing friends and gear shop owner put it: "If you want a highly specialized, $125 shoe that you can only climb crack in then go for it.'
If you’re looking for a shoe for crack climbing and edging I’ve hear good things about the Five Ten Piton. Now just if I can find a shop that carries them.
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stefanohatari
Apr 4, 2007, 7:01 PM
Post #5 of 12
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Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 88
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My tradmasters are my all-day climbing shoes. Comfy, but not very technical. But I don't trad any harder than 5.10 anyway.
They took a lot of the pain out of learning to climb crack.
I sometimes call them my 'clown shoes' because of the bulbous toes. Forget about getting that toe into pockets or finger cracks.
I saw them on sale at REI recently for about $40.
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ihategrigris
Apr 4, 2007, 7:09 PM
Post #6 of 12
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Registered: Jan 6, 2005
Posts: 757
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I've got the pitons but I have yet to try them on crack. They're pretty good on edgy limestone stuff though, highly recommended.
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chadnsc
Apr 5, 2007, 1:07 PM
Post #7 of 12
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449
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stefanohatari wrote: I saw them on sale at REI recently for about $40.
Yup I did too. Too bad they are only size 5.5 or smaller.
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8flood8
Apr 5, 2007, 7:37 PM
Post #8 of 12
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
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i love them in cracks
its like putting your bony foot into a comfy shoe-pillow which is generously slathered in sticky rubber.
i use them on slab and in cracks so i don't know what these non-edgy people are talking about. Sure they are stiff, but its really nice when you are turning the tip of your toe into a small crack and then cranking your whole body on it...
don't buy them so big and you'll get more "performance" out of them but its no down turned toe...
i love these i climb in them in the heat of texas on pink granite. but i probably wouldn't want this shoe on the limestone here around austin.
if you are buying them on sale i think its a great buy.
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fredo
Apr 5, 2007, 8:36 PM
Post #9 of 12
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 501
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I was looking for an all day trad shoe to replace my Focuses. I bought these and love them. I think they edge nicely and are a bit of heaven in a crack. I like the padding but have yet to climb in really warm weather. Of course when it is 80 degrees at the crag it is probably 65 in the mountains..
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vegastradguy
Apr 5, 2007, 10:31 PM
Post #10 of 12
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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think of them as an insulated version of the mythos- i cant wear them this time of year- too hot.
but in the winter, they cant be beat- comfortable and, despite what others have said, i have no problem climbing technical and precise routes with them.
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theirishman
Apr 9, 2007, 4:58 AM
Post #11 of 12
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Registered: Aug 17, 2005
Posts: 169
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i love the 5.10 pitons too freaking much, i sized them a TAD bit bigger then normal shoes and wear them with socks for comfort and its amazing, i climb 5.10 cracks in them and have no problem, they are stiff enough to be comfy in cracks but soft enough to edge when need be, also the full rand toe adn EVA heal are SICK
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curt
Apr 9, 2007, 5:21 AM
Post #12 of 12
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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I have a couple of pair of these and, as others have said, they are very comfortable. If you can't climb hard in these shoes, here's a little hint: the problem is not the shoe.
Curt
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