|
pinnbasher
Mar 22, 2007, 3:31 AM
Post #1 of 17
(3443 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 8, 2006
Posts: 14
|
Just wondering how many ropes people use on climbs over two or three pitches I asume you use one for lead one 9 mm static for hauling and one 11 mm static for jugging.Also is it possible or safe to rap on two lines if one is static and the other dynamic? I climb mostly solo but have a partner some times.Thanks for any info
|
|
|
|
|
fenderfour
Mar 22, 2007, 2:51 PM
Post #2 of 17
(3415 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 177
|
Let me start by saying I'm relatively new to aid climbing.
For 1-6 pitches, I usually have one 10-10.5 mm dynamic rope for leading and one 9.5 mm static for hauling.
The follower jugs on the lead line. If I need anything from the big rack, I use the haul line as a tag line. This wouldn't work well on an overhanging wall after you were more than 30m out. It would be difficult to get the haul ine back to the belayer. In that case, I would add a 60m tag line of 7mm perlon.
|
|
|
|
|
skinner
Mar 22, 2007, 8:17 PM
Post #3 of 17
(3380 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
|
pinnbasher wrote: Also is it possible or safe to rap on two lines if one is static and the other dynamic?
I rap on one dynamic and one static more then anything else. I do this whether I am aid, trad, ice, or alpine climbing, so the diameter of the dynamic will vary between 11-8.5mm but the static line is always a 7mm. My reason for doing this, is so that I can have the advantage of rapping a full 60 or 70m at a time without having to carry two full size/weight ropes. The one thing you have to keep in mind is that a fully weighted (body+gear+pack) dynamic rope can have substantial stretch, so you have to have a longer then 60-70m static in order for the ends to be somewhat even. I have (2) 7mm static ropes cut to different lengths, the longer one being for 9.1mm and smaller ropes which have around 38% elongation. The best way to figure this out is just take your ropes out somewhere that you can do a full length rap, fully weighting the rope (pack+gear) preferably off of an overhang, just before you touch down have someone mark the 7mm for you. I add about another meter and a half on that (for my heavy buddies) and chop it. Since 7mm is fairly cheap, I buy it 10m longer and whatever I cut off ends up as cord for building and/or equalizing anchors or leave behind anchors w/rap rings... etc, etc.
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Mar 22, 2007, 8:40 PM
Post #4 of 17
(3367 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
One dynamic lead line, one 9mm static line for hauling, one 7mm static cord as a tag line or for lowering out the pig (optional).
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Mar 23, 2007, 2:34 AM
Post #5 of 17
(3333 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
10.5mm x60M lead
11mm x75M haul line (purchased off the spool with a specific 2-pitch linkup-rap in mind), the extra length is handy for lowering out the pigs too.
8.1mm x 65M (retired) Iceline for tagging, or in a pinch to GTFO-quick when less then 650' of the deck!
the fatter ropes for hauling and leading can help to mitigate pucker-factor when 10+ seconds free fall above the deck. or maybe i'm just a
|
|
|
|
|
ja1484
Mar 23, 2007, 3:11 AM
Post #6 of 17
(3312 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
|
Most people jug the lead line and haul on an 8 - 9mm static, depending.
10-10.5mm for the lead line strikes the right balance between lightness and durability to my mind.
As far as brands go, Mammut and PMI are especially renowned for their durability. The jury is still out on Petzl's new ropes, but all the feedback I've heard is that they have very tight, fairly stiff sheath weaves which bodes well for longer life up against abrasion.
Honestly though, as long as you deal with sharp edges appropriately, most any reputable dynamic rope will do.
|
|
|
|
|
pinnbasher
Mar 23, 2007, 6:04 AM
Post #7 of 17
(3293 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 8, 2006
Posts: 14
|
Right on thanks for all the info
|
|
|
|
|
dalfollo
Mar 26, 2007, 7:10 PM
Post #8 of 17
(3204 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2006
Posts: 46
|
If you have an old 11mm (10 years or so, decent to good condition) is there any reason NOT to use it as either a haul line, or tag line?
Except the weight/size....since the pig hauling and tag line are fairly static....any feedback appreciated.
I am considering a dedicated Haul line such at the 8mm x 60m Beal Static Trail Line here at REI: http://www.rei.com/...EI_SSHP_CLIMBING_TOC
Is there any particular place you would suggest for getting a Static 7mm??
Thanks.
(This post was edited by dalfollo on Mar 26, 2007, 7:18 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Mar 27, 2007, 1:14 AM
Post #9 of 17
(3169 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
dalfollo wrote: If you have an old 11mm (10 years or so, decent to good condition) is there any reason NOT to use it as either a haul line, or tag line? Except the weight/size....since the pig hauling and tag line are fairly static....any feedback appreciated. I am considering a dedicated Haul line such at the 8mm x 60m Beal Static Trail Line here at REI: http://www.rei.com/...EI_SSHP_CLIMBING_TOC Is there any particular place you would suggest for getting a Static 7mm?? Thanks.
if the 11mm is a dynamic i wouldn't use it as a haul line, and as a tag line it's way overkill. if it's a static in otherwise good shape i'd say heck yeah. It's thick and heavy, but when you're hauling supplies for two people for a week it provides great peace of mind (especially when you have to jug the haul line's heavy side!)
the beal 8mm i personally wouldn't recommend for any serious big-walling as a haul line, maybe for a few short walls it'd be ok, but juggin on a line that thin for 160+feet just doesn't sit too well with me, especially if you have to do it twenty or thirty times before you top out. it'd be fine as a tag line though, and i'd rap it if i had to in order to GTFO quick.
|
|
|
|
|
dalfollo
Mar 27, 2007, 1:27 AM
Post #10 of 17
(3163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2006
Posts: 46
|
Thanks for the info...I will remember to stay away from dynamic as a haul line, if possbile (one more reason to get the right equipment).
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Mar 27, 2007, 1:50 AM
Post #11 of 17
(3155 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
dalfollo wrote: Thanks for the info...I will remember to stay away from dynamic as a haul line, if possbile (one more reason to get the right equipment).
it's worth the money to not haul on dynamic, no matter what the cost. My money goes into Mammut 10 or 11mm static purchased off the spool and cut to length. I will admit to purchasing some 8 mm static, but i have no intention of wall-hauling with it. It should work nicely for rope access work though.
|
|
|
|
|
dalfollo
Mar 27, 2007, 3:43 AM
Post #12 of 17
(3133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2006
Posts: 46
|
Is there are particular place you get yur cordage, Mail order/Internet or local?
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Mar 27, 2007, 3:48 AM
Post #13 of 17
(3131 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
Black Diamond Retail Store 801-278-0233
...but they're local to me.
They'll ship, as will most places, but I would recommend becoming a familiar face around your local gear shop too. Doing so will pay dividends in the long run that you'll never get by "saving" money over the inter-web.
Especially if you aspire to be a true gear whore.
|
|
|
|
|
dalfollo
Apr 1, 2007, 7:28 PM
Post #14 of 17
(3075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2006
Posts: 46
|
Gear whore....right, I had forgot about that! I will work it local....i am such a noob!
I did come across a 10mm x 200' Static Bluewater that I picked for dedicatd hauling.
I will have my 60m x 11mm Dynamic for the main rope....and now look for a reasonably colored 7mm to 8mm for tag line (I may use a retired 11mm for tag depending on funding).
Thanks for the help!
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Apr 6, 2007, 4:32 PM
Post #15 of 17
(2935 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
the bluewater 10.3 static haul line is the tits. nice handling, confidence inspiring if you need to jug it and WAY lighter than the bluewater statics i use for roped access work.
http://www.mountaingear.com/...e/MG/item/640710/N/0
(This post was edited by euroford on Apr 6, 2007, 4:33 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sweetchuck
Apr 6, 2007, 4:54 PM
Post #16 of 17
(2918 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2005
Posts: 151
|
Skinner, do you mind sharing what knot you use to tie the lead line to the 7mm. Just looking for another data point here.
Thanks,
sc
|
|
|
|
|
skinner
Apr 7, 2007, 4:38 AM
Post #17 of 17
(2888 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
|
sweetchuck wrote: Skinner, do you mind sharing what knot you use to tie the lead line to the 7mm. Just looking for another data point here. Thanks, sc
I use a double fisherman, always have, always will. I know this has been debated endlessly, but I feel a lot better using a DF especially when joining dissimilar diameter ropes. Sometimes when the difference in diameter is great, say an 11mm and a 7mm, I'll do the standard double wrap with the 11mm but will do a triple wrap with the 7mm.
|
|
|
|
|
|
