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ccourtney_99
Apr 7, 2007, 7:37 PM
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Just tried my first indoor climb (first climb period) and it was awesome. Im hooked!!!! The only thing was that my forearms failed fairly quickly. Im a pretty big guy so along with losing weight what other training/exercises can i do to get the old Popeye forearms going??? Thanks!!!
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coastal_climber
Apr 7, 2007, 7:53 PM
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I would prescribe more climbing. Make sure that you have a day between sessions so you don't get injured, and let your body have enough time to rest.
>Cam
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ccourtney_99
Apr 8, 2007, 5:14 PM
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Well the closest climbing gym is approx 4 hours drive from where I live (a new wall is being constructed in my home town but wont be finished for about another 6 months or so ) so doing alot of climbing just isnt an option right now. Im doing alot of forearm curls at the gym and the old 10lb weight on a rope and stick trick. They seem to be helping but are there any other specialty training tools out there that would be useful. Thanks
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snakedevil
Apr 8, 2007, 5:46 PM
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get a hangboard
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naitch
Apr 8, 2007, 5:48 PM
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A last resort would be a fingerboard. Start off very slowly. warm up thoroughly and only use the larger holds. Also only do a max of two times a week. Pulled/torn tendons in fingers are a bitch to heal but with proper precaution you should be able to avoid that happening. I would do hangs and lock-offs but only on holds that approach being jugs - at least in the beginning. A hang board can be put up above most any doorway.
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fluxus
Apr 8, 2007, 6:03 PM
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ccourtney_99 wrote: . . . doing alot of climbing just isnt an option right now. Im doing alot of forearm curls at the gym and the old 10lb weight on a rope and stick trick. They seem to be helping but are there any other specialty training tools out there that would be useful. Thanks
no, not really, even the activities you are doing are not really going to be helpful. The reasons is that, the nature of the way we use our forearm muscles in climbing is fairly unique. isometric contraction in a variety of finger positions but with movement of the wrist. Isometirc strength is best developed by isometric training activities that closely simulate the joint positions used in clibming. This is why climbers who don't live near climbing, or can only climb now and then use hang boards BUT a hang board for a person why is completely new to climbing is a disaster waiting to happen so don't use a hang board unless you would like to get injuried. The tendons, joint capsules and pulleys in your fingers need months to years of training before they will be able to take the strain that harder climbing or using a hang board will put on them.
for any new climber the priority needs to be learning climbing movement. This is the most difficult task in climbing, and the one that takes the longest.
Its quite natural for you forearms to get tired quickly since you have never climbed before and they are not used to being used in that way, but don't let that trick you into think that forearm fitness is the most important element that you need to work on, its not.
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ccourtney_99
Apr 8, 2007, 7:40 PM
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Well thanks for all the info guys..... I guess im just going to have to do alot of travelling to get the necessary training that I need. At least for the next 6-12 months or so. I know that there is alot more to training than just forearm exercises but its just what really stuck out on my first climbing experience. Im a pretty big guy (270lbs) and on my first climb(s) at the rock gym everything else held up pretty good except for the forearms. Ill just keep training with what I have for now. Thanks
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lambone
Apr 9, 2007, 4:29 PM
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lexmark
Apr 9, 2007, 4:57 PM
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ccourtney_99 wrote: I know that there is alot more to training than just forearm exercises but its just what really stuck out on my first climbing experience. Im a pretty big guy (270lbs) and on my first climb(s) at the rock gym everything else held up pretty good except for the forearms. Ill just keep training with what I have for now. Thanks
270 is HUGE for a climber. Cutting 50 pounds (and then some more) would do more for your "pump" than anything else. Forearm pump happens to every new climber because they haven't learned to use their feet and body tension (abs) yet.
In essence the only thing you should think about doing to improve your climbing is lose weight and climb.
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sidepull
Apr 9, 2007, 4:59 PM
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ccourtney_99 wrote: Well thanks for all the info guys..... I guess im just going to have to do alot of travelling to get the necessary training that I need. At least for the next 6-12 months or so. I know that there is alot more to training than just forearm exercises but its just what really stuck out on my first climbing experience. Im a pretty big guy (270lbs) and on my first climb(s) at the rock gym everything else held up pretty good except for the forearms. Ill just keep training with what I have for now. Thanks
Given that you won't be able to really focus on climbing skills right now (due to the distance from a climbing gym) I'd focus on losing weight and improving overall conditioning. Start a strength training program and really focus on improving any imbalances or weaknesses you currently have. That way, once you start climbing in earnest, you're less likely to get injured.
Also, while fluxus is right, finger rolls and wrist curls don't duplicate climbing specific hand positions, I wonder if those exercises are better than doing nothing. For instance, can't he improve capilarity in that area of the body even though he's not climbing? Could this have an injury reducing effect as well as improve endurance for beginner jugfests (which aren't so hand-position specific)?
Don't get a hangboard.
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shrug7
Apr 9, 2007, 6:09 PM
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lexmark wrote: ccourtney_99 wrote: I know that there is alot more to training than just forearm exercises but its just what really stuck out on my first climbing experience. Im a pretty big guy (270lbs) and on my first climb(s) at the rock gym everything else held up pretty good except for the forearms. Ill just keep training with what I have for now. Thanks 270 is HUGE for a climber. Cutting 50 pounds (and then some more) would do more for your "pump" than anything else. Forearm pump happens to every new climber because they haven't learned to use their feet and body tension (abs) yet. In essence the only thing you should think about doing to improve your climbing is lose weight and climb.
I second that. I was 290+ (but prob more along the lines over 300) when I started climbing. Dropping the 80+ some pounds since I started has help. Alot. Seriously.
The lack of a climbing gym will make it hard to train for climbing. However, you can run and lift. Running will help with mainly with cardio and weight training will help lose weight and build muscles.
Use your legs! Trust me, it's the only way to climb especially when you're a big guy, if you want to last more then a route or two.
And stay off a hang board for a while, you'll destroy your hands/fingers.
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cicali
Apr 9, 2007, 11:35 PM
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If you have the available space you could try to build a small woody. For a relatively small cost you can have a relatively small (ok extremely small) gym of your own. Plans can be found all over the web and you get the added benefit of training at your leisure.
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ccourtney_99
Apr 10, 2007, 1:31 AM
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Well I have been concentrating alot of my gym exercises with gripping and hanging movements. This seems to give the old forearms a great pump. I know I have to cut alot of weight to do some serious climbing and even to really enjoy it. I have lost 25lbs over the last few months and still going strong. Lots of cardio, weight training and eating right..... im going for my first outdoor climb in late may and im hoping to have another 10-15 lbs gone and really get a great experience from it.
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jt512
Apr 10, 2007, 3:23 AM
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lambone wrote: Mix cardio training in with your climbing. This will increase your muscles aerobic capacity...
Here we go again.
Jay
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ja1484
Apr 10, 2007, 3:51 AM
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jt512 wrote: lambone wrote: Mix cardio training in with your climbing. This will increase your muscles aerobic capacity... Here we go again. Jay
I am laughing my ass off right now because Jay is so right.
I really need to work on my muscle's aerobic capacity myself...
lambone wrote: Mix cardio training in with your climbing. This will increase your muscles aerobic capacity, and increase the amount of time before you get pumped. Once you feel they pump set in your muscles are working anerobicly.
Please stop talking.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Apr 10, 2007, 3:53 AM)
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ccourtney_99
Apr 10, 2007, 5:11 AM
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Guys, Im new and just looking for some advice.... if you dont want to give any tips/advice than thats up to you. So basically if you dont have anything constructive to say then maybe dont say anything at all. Thanks
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aidasr
Apr 11, 2007, 4:26 PM
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Someone may have already written this, but its my favorite forearmstrengthening excersice.
Take a full paint can..or a cinder block..or something that you can lift..pretty easily.
Tie some cord to it..and tie the other end to a bar..or dowel or..something like that. i tape it on too so the cord doesnt spin on the dowel.
Now..grab it with both hands and start rolling it until the weight is all the way up...and lower it down and keep rolling it up the other way, and lower it...and roll it up again.
Simple and effective.
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nuts_bolts
Apr 11, 2007, 4:45 PM
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aidasr wrote: Someone may have already written this, but its my favorite forearmstrengthening excersice. Take a full paint can..or a cinder block..or something that you can lift..pretty easily. Tie some cord to it..and tie the other end to a bar..or dowel or..something like that. i tape it on too so the cord doesnt spin on the dowel. Now..grab it with both hands and start rolling it until the weight is all the way up...and lower it down and keep rolling it up the other way, and lower it...and roll it up again. Simple and effective.
Funny... I've never come across any climbing movement quite like that...
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sidepull
Apr 11, 2007, 4:58 PM
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ccourtney_99 wrote: Guys, Im new and just looking for some advice.... if you dont want to give any tips/advice than thats up to you. So basically if you dont have anything constructive to say then maybe dont say anything at all. Thanks
I'd recommend against getting defensive. There isn't a single comment in this thread that attacks you, instead it attacks really crappy advice others have offered. Of course, you'll have to sort out what you believe and what you don't (just as you have to decide what is constructive and what is not) but putting out a defensive remark like this only lessens the chance that smart people will help you now and in the future.
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aidasr
Apr 11, 2007, 5:04 PM
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nuts_bolts wrote: aidasr wrote: Someone may have already written this, but its my favorite forearmstrengthening excersice. Take a full paint can..or a cinder block..or something that you can lift..pretty easily. Tie some cord to it..and tie the other end to a bar..or dowel or..something like that. i tape it on too so the cord doesnt spin on the dowel. Now..grab it with both hands and start rolling it until the weight is all the way up...and lower it down and keep rolling it up the other way, and lower it...and roll it up again. Simple and effective. Funny... I've never come across any climbing movement quite like that...
It just builds up forearm strength. It sounds wierd....but it works
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lambone
Apr 11, 2007, 7:53 PM
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sidepull wrote: There isn't a single comment in this thread that attacks you, instead it attacks really crappy advice others have offered.
I'm sorry some of you people think my advice above is crappy. The original poster asked why their forarms faild so quickly, and I tried to explain in fairly lamens terms what "getting pumped" means. I don't claim to be an expert, although I coach climbers for a living.
Most of what I said above comes straight from a recent Rock and Ice article I just read: "Pump Action, Improving your performance with aerobic and anaerobic conditioning." September 2006 Issue #153 pg88.
There is plenty of training info available through online and text resources.
From what I have read there isn't a single piece of "crappy" advice in this thread from anyone. The recomendation to get a hangboard should be followed with caution, and another post explained the risks involved with using a hangboard for beggining climbers. A hangboard can be an effective training tool if used properly and carefully. It can also blow up your tendons in a hurry, just like any training apparatus has the ability to cause damage if used incorrectly.
If you are really commited to training, build your own woody and buy a bunch of jugs. Get on it and stay on it for 30minutes +, that is about the best thing you could do for your climbing, until your local gym is finished.
Regards
Matt
(This post was edited by lambone on Apr 11, 2007, 8:09 PM)
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sidepull
Apr 11, 2007, 8:56 PM
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lambone wrote: sidepull wrote: There isn't a single comment in this thread that attacks you, instead it attacks really crappy advice others have offered. I'm sorry some of you people think my advice above is crappy. The original poster asked why their forarms faild so quickly, and I tried to explain in fairly lamens terms what "getting pumped" means. I don't claim to be an expert, although I coach climbers for a living.
Sorry Matt, maybe crappy was a bit too strong of a word, but arguing that running improves your ability to avoid a pump is silly. Re-read the article and you'll realize that it's talking about decreasing a pump between burns, not about cardio as a workout strategy for beginning climbers. But even then, there are far better sources for climbing information - I hope this isn't the type of information you give to those you coach.
BTW your gym looks really nice but your last sentence quoted above reads like the famous "I'm not a doctor but I play one on TV."
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jt512
Apr 11, 2007, 9:24 PM
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lambone wrote: I don't claim to be an expert, although I coach climbers for a living.
Uh, okay.
Jay
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lambone
Apr 11, 2007, 9:41 PM
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sidepull wrote: ...but arguing that running improves your ability to avoid a pump is silly....I hope this isn't the type of information you give to those you coach.
why not? are you saying cardiovascular fitness doesn't effect the amount of time it takes to get pumped on a climb? What happens to you when you hold your breath through a crux?
we actually run before every practice. running (or warming up) before climbing increases the blood flow to your muscles and directly helps you avoid getting this thing called a "flash pump"...maybe you've heard of it?
For this guy who weighs 270, running will also help him cut some pounds and indirectly help him avoid getting so pumped because of extra weight. ever climb with a weight belt as training, you'd be suprised how much harder 10 extra pounds can make a climb at your limit feel.
In reply to: BTW your gym looks really nice but your last sentence quoted above reads like the famous "I'm not a doctor but I play one on TV."
Thanks, and that's exactly how I wanted it to read. I am not a certified personal trainer (i.e. and expert). I coach a climbing team (some of my athletes have progressed from V1 climbers to qualifying for ABS Nationals), and pass on my experience and knowledge from 18 years of climbing experience, as well as my own training research and working with personal trainers.
The R+I article just happens to be the last thing I was reading with regards to training. For another good online source for training info check out the Eric Horst interviews on podclimber.com:
http://podclimber.com/?m=1&c=11
(This post was edited by lambone on Apr 11, 2007, 9:55 PM)
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carabiner96
Apr 12, 2007, 3:43 AM
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aidasr wrote: nuts_bolts wrote: aidasr wrote: Someone may have already written this, but its my favorite forearmstrengthening excersice. Take a full paint can..or a cinder block..or something that you can lift..pretty easily. Tie some cord to it..and tie the other end to a bar..or dowel or..something like that. i tape it on too so the cord doesnt spin on the dowel. Now..grab it with both hands and start rolling it until the weight is all the way up...and lower it down and keep rolling it up the other way, and lower it...and roll it up again. Simple and effective. Funny... I've never come across any climbing movement quite like that... It just builds up forearm strength. It sounds wierd....but it works
Not only does it work, but it works well. Helps build up wrist strength and prevent injury. Its a common work out for our climbing team.
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