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hershelgibbs
Apr 8, 2007, 2:06 AM
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Hi,
I live in Columbus, Ohio and have been climbing for a year now on and off. The only real climbing experience I have had is in a rock climbing gym we have here. I really want to get into climbing more this summer, so me and my friend want to make a climbing trip out west, to California and back, and do some outdoor climbing.
Me and my friend being gym climbers mostly only have climbing shoes, chalk, and a harness.
We want to be able to make this trip as good as possible, so we thought it would be good to get input from people on the forums who do outdoor climbing.
If you could help with your input it would be appreciated. And if any of you have done this sorta thing, getting your help would be great.
Some questions I have:
A. Is there a book on this sorta thing, climbing out west or the best places in the U.S. to go climbing?
B. What type of equipment do we need to make the trip?
Thanks,
Gabe
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herbaltee
Apr 8, 2007, 4:08 AM
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You are going to get flamed, so I'm going to answer it before the matches come out.
A. There really isn't a book on it unless its a crappy Falcon Guide. So pick out where you want to climb and find that book for that location. I would recommend sport climbing locations. Smith in Oregon, Owens River in Cal. Or go bouldering at Bishop or head to Canada and head to Squamish.
B. Go back to your gym and see if they offer classes in how to lead climb and how to set up anchors. Take that class or if they don't have classes find a person who will be willing to teach you.
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sesser125
Apr 8, 2007, 4:31 AM
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Herbaltee has it right. If you cant lead and have no gear your gonna need to learn and buy some. At least a rope and 15 quick draws. Check out a book called Rock and Road. Its not a guidebook but will tell you some info on almost all the places to climb in lower 48. Good luck your going to need it.
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ihategrigris
Apr 8, 2007, 4:34 AM
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If you have no outdoor experience, and want to make the most of your time out west.... you'l want to go guided. Theres guiding establishments at every major climbing area. IT's pretty expensive, but you'll have someone experienced show you the ropes of outdoor climbing fast... and perhaps you'll be able to climb on your own later in the trip.
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organika
Apr 8, 2007, 5:58 AM
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...I would def learn how to or find someone to lead....or it is just gonna be a vacation...i too moved from good old columbus OH in 2003......good luck
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hershelgibbs
Apr 8, 2007, 2:27 PM
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I'm sorry if I didn't specify. Yes I can lead climb, and we only want to do sport climbing. We kinda figured it would be way to hard do do any trad climbing. Thanks for the help.
(This post was edited by hershelgibbs on Apr 8, 2007, 2:28 PM)
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socalclimber
Apr 8, 2007, 2:29 PM
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New Jack City in Southern California's Lucerne Valley would keep ya busy for quite a while.
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dlintz
Apr 8, 2007, 3:17 PM
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How long will this trip be? When exactly are you starting? If your trip will be in the middle to late summer you might want to think about heading to CA through some nothern states to ensure better temps. Going through the SW may mean climbing just in the morning before it heats up.
Based on what you've said so far here are some suggested places to hit during the first half of your trip (depending on your route):
Southern Illinois (Jackson Falls, Drapers Bluff, etc.)
Shelf Road, CO
Boulder Canyon, CO
Sinks Canyon and Wild Iris, WY
Little Cotoonwood Canyon, UT
Check the route database or mountainproject.com for info regarding routes, suggested guidebooks, and camping.
d.
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marc801
Apr 8, 2007, 3:57 PM
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dlintz wrote: Based on what you've said so far here are some suggested places to hit ...: ... Little Cotoonwood Canyon, UT
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dlintz
Apr 8, 2007, 4:11 PM
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marc801 wrote: dlintz wrote: Based on what you've said so far here are some suggested places to hit ...: ... Little Cotoonwood Canyon, UT Little Cottonwood Canyon is 99.9% trad. There are many more sport routes in Big Cottonwood Canyon. For 100% sport, better choices are American Fork Canyon and Maple Canyon. Don't know your ability level but remember that AF only has a handful of routes below 10b with the greatest selection being 5.11's and 5.12's. Maple has a bit more in the 5.7 - 5.10 range.
Oops, thanks for the clarification. I meant to type Big, not Little.
d.
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localshredder
Apr 8, 2007, 6:18 PM
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Maple canyon Utah is the coolest rock you could ever imagine. Maple is made up of river cobblestones welded together, and is good for climbing all summer. American fork canyon is only an hour away from Maple and has some of the coolest limestone around, steep juggy pockets, and you can climb there all summer as well.
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petsfed
Apr 8, 2007, 6:33 PM
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dlintz wrote: Based on what you've said so far here are some suggested places to hit during the first half of your trip (depending on your route): Southern Illinois (Jackson Falls, Drapers Bluff, etc.) Shelf Road, CO Boulder Canyon, CO Sinks Canyon and Wild Iris, WY Little Cotoonwood Canyon, UT
Drop Boulder Canyon, its just not a destination, and if you're gonna be out in late summer, drop Sinks. Its a fall destination, otherwise its a solar oven. The Utah Hills above St. George, UT can be nice when its cooler, but its still high desert. Check out Smith Rocks, OR in early summer and early fall. Ten Sleep, WY is good too. Like Sinks, only cooler in the summer. Pick up Rock and Road (they might have it at the library even) and ask here (or around, you know) about the areas you want to visit and conditions for when you want to be out.
If you've got a pad, head for Little Cottonwood, the Flatirons, the Sphinx Boulders, Bishop, a variety of places that are good for bouldering. That will make your road trip much more interesting and will keep you busy. Unfortunately, summer's a pretty bad time for sport climbing, its better for alpine rock. Spring's good for Desert climbing, fall's good for sport climbing, and winter's best for ice.
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m2j1s
Apr 8, 2007, 6:44 PM
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gabe. do you climb at vertical adventures? if so how often/when do you go. i climb there as well and i live in colorado, maybe i could give you some beta.
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icedpulleys
Apr 8, 2007, 7:30 PM
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IMO before embarking on a cross-country climbing trip you should get some outdoor experience in. Red river gorge is ~3.5 hours from Columbus, and Summersville lake at the New river gorge is ~4 hours. If you head to the red with a dozen draws and a rope, you may end up never taking your trip out west. 
You could do either one over a spring weekend just to get used to leading outdoors and get a feel for climbing on actual rock.
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deschamps1000
Apr 8, 2007, 8:28 PM
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You need outdoor experience before you start your road trip. It will make your trip much much more enjoyable and worth it.
Figure out how to lead outside while still at home, not while at a new destination mid-roadtrip.
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metalhead
Apr 9, 2007, 12:11 AM
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Like the others are saying defiantly hit up the red. Also work on your crack skills, the west has a lot of cracks (im thinkin moab) -us east siders dont seem to be that good at cracks.
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redpoint73
Apr 9, 2007, 1:17 AM
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sesser125 wrote: Check out a book called Rock and Road. Its not a guidebook but will tell you some info on almost all the places to climb in lower 48.
Second the vote for Rock and Road. While not enough information to get you to the crags, and finding routes, its a great resource for picking destinations and making a tick list.
http://www.rei.com/product/697547
The book has an overview map of each state (as well as US and Canada), showing the general location of each crag, then a small summary of each crag, with ratings for quality and quantity of climbing, length of clmibs, type of rock, brief driving directions, and suggested routes. You will still need a guidebook for each crag, but Rock and Road is a great planning book.
Great resource for planning a road trip, making a move, or just daydreaming. Before the online databases were available, it was just a great reference for those moments where you wondered "Where in the heck is this XXX place I keep hearing about".
Rock and Road (1st Edition) was pretty instrumental in my decision to move to New England. My wife asked me what I thought about moving, and my response was "let me check Rock and Road and I will give you an answer"!
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hershelgibbs
Apr 11, 2007, 2:20 AM
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m2j1s, yeah I climb at vertical adventures about 3 times a week. I wont be back for the summer though until may 16th. From then on I will be there often.
Thanks for all the help everybody. I am sure to check out check out red river gorge and do my homework some more.
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cfurman
Apr 11, 2007, 3:24 AM
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yea, def check out the red, 9's and up on sport of thats what your lookin for, cheap camping too. 3 bucks and u can get a pass to camp in the woods, just not close to the crag.
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