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8flood8
Apr 8, 2007, 3:12 PM
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so here is the deal
i will probably have a week or two in the next month that i can go to Yosemite.
My partner is an awesome friend, but a sketchy partner.
not that i doubt his climbing ability, which is more than mine, but i doubt his ability to judge the safety of "my" situation.
i'm looking to get on some fun routes and i'd love to do some multi-pitch - so here is my question
what routes would you reccommend for a 1st timer to the valley?
i'm thinking probably something within the 5.6-5.8 range.
My estimation of the climbing is that i'm going to find that everything is polished and my crack technique will be all that will carry my through this. Not to mention my fear that everything will be sandbagged because its all "old school" ratings when .10 meant something.
So in essence i want to go and climb and have fun, but i don't want to get way in over my head. I'd feel comfortable doing short multipitch, something that can be done in 1 day by a slow party, maybe 15 pitches or less.
can anyone put together a 2 week hit list? or maybe just your favorites?
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timm
Apr 8, 2007, 3:18 PM
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Check out the routes at the Five Open Books area. Also the Royal Arches routes would be a good longer multi-pitch route.
If you ditch the sketchy partner, you will have no problem finding partners in Camp 4.
Enjoy the Valley.
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dingus
Apr 8, 2007, 3:55 PM
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Some classic intro routes:
Manure Pile area:
After 6, 5.6 - many beginners take their 1st Yos. lead on this on
After 7, 5.7 - seemingly a crowded after thought, the better route (joins the above after 1)
Both of the above protect well, provide adequate friction and cool jams, and will make you think too)
Also on Manure is the classic Nutcrack Suite. Its 5.8, come back a bit later in the week for this one, there are some other cracks you should hit first.
Five Open Books:
Munginella - 3 pitches, like 5.6 or so. EWxcellent cracks, good pro, guaranteed company, decent belay ledges, walk off descent. Another classis FIRST route.
Commitment - 3 pitches, 5.9 (one move), another Yosemite beginner rite of passage, a little harder than Munginella, crux undercling tp escape right of the big ceiling on the last pitch. Maybe the easiest 5.9 in the valley, quien sabe!
Sunnyside (after posing walk over the trails past the falls) - this is a good one to do after Munginella, its just down the trail:
Jamcrack - P1, 5.7; classic smooth sided Yosemite crack, another rite of passage. Smooth this one and you'll be in the money. Thrutch it and know you have a ways to go. P2 is 'easy' 5.9 and protects well.
Churchbowl - Church Bowl lieback (5.? can't remember, 8 I think) is a classic noob-kick-butt that simply requires faith in one's pro and a willingness to move to the next pro opportunity smoothly.
As you feel you crack game stepping up have at Bishop's Terrace at 5.8. Once again, rite of passage.
Consider Royal Arches - One of the legendary "Fifty Classic Climbs of Noparht America" believe it or not, an easy but long climb with lots of history.
5. easy cept for the traverse which is often fixed so you can just wing over it, rap the rappel route or use the opportunity to learn the North Dome Gully descent from the top of Washington Column,
Those'll get you going.
Have fun
DMT
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8flood8
Apr 8, 2007, 6:17 PM
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you rule! thanks for the info
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rhyang
Apr 8, 2007, 7:44 PM
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After Six is more like 5.7 (apparently it became harder after some rockfall), and After Seven is 5.8, just an fyi.
There is also some fun stuff over at Knob Hill (Sloth Wall was my first 5.7 lead).
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rhyang
Apr 9, 2007, 12:37 AM
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marc801 wrote: rhyang wrote: After Six is more like 5.7 (apparently it became harder after some rockfall), and After Seven is 5.8,... Hence their names! 
Heheh. I'm told by people who climbed After Six many years ago that it really was 5.6 then ... but I only led it for the first time last November.
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summerprophet
Apr 9, 2007, 6:02 PM
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Another one that is worth doing.
Braile Book 5.7 (I think)
An Hour hike into the cathedrals to take you up a lovely corner system. The offwidth is nothing to be worried about. Likely to be other parties on it.
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svilnit
Apr 9, 2007, 6:14 PM
Post #9 of 30
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dingus wrote: Some classic intro routes: Manure Pile area: After 6, 5.6 - many beginners take their 1st Yos. lead on this on After 7, 5.7 - seemingly a crowded after thought, the better route (joins the above after 1) Both of the above protect well, provide adequate friction and cool jams, and will make you think too) Also on Manure is the classic Nutcrack Suite. Its 5.8, come back a bit later in the week for this one, there are some other cracks you should hit first. Five Open Books: Munginella - 3 pitches, like 5.6 or so. EWxcellent cracks, good pro, guaranteed company, decent belay ledges, walk off descent. Another classis FIRST route. Commitment - 3 pitches, 5.9 (one move), another Yosemite beginner rite of passage, a little harder than Munginella, crux undercling tp escape right of the big ceiling on the last pitch. Maybe the easiest 5.9 in the valley, quien sabe! Sunnyside (after posing walk over the trails past the falls) - this is a good one to do after Munginella, its just down the trail: Jamcrack - P1, 5.7; classic smooth sided Yosemite crack, another rite of passage. Smooth this one and you'll be in the money. Thrutch it and know you have a ways to go. P2 is 'easy' 5.9 and protects well. Churchbowl - Church Bowl lieback (5.? can't remember, 8 I think) is a classic noob-kick-butt that simply requires faith in one's pro and a willingness to move to the next pro opportunity smoothly. As you feel you crack game stepping up have at Bishop's Terrace at 5.8. Once again, rite of passage. Consider Royal Arches - One of the legendary "Fifty Classic Climbs of Noparht America" believe it or not, an easy but long climb with lots of history. 5. easy cept for the traverse which is often fixed so you can just wing over it, rap the rappel route or use the opportunity to learn the North Dome Gully descent from the top of Washington Column, Those'll get you going. Have fun DMT
I'm a loser, I'm going there in May. Unfortunately I don't think I will get any climbing in, just hiking.. 
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jgailor
Apr 9, 2007, 6:25 PM
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Plain and simple, get the SuperTopo guide "Yosemite Valley Free Climbs". It is all about easy - moderate routes and classic climbs. Swan Slab is a good place to start to get a feel for climbing in the valley, and you can progress from there. It's got tons of great beta and good diagrams.
Most importantly, have fun!!! I'll be quiting the job and moving to Yosemite next summer for a month or two and the time is just dragging. If you put up the dates you'll be there maybe I'll drive out and join you for a day or two if you're looking for some other people to climb with.
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caughtinside
Apr 10, 2007, 1:25 AM
Post #11 of 30
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summerprophet wrote: Another one that is worth doing. Braile Book 5.7 (I think) An Hour hike into the cathedrals to take you up a lovely corner system. The offwidth is nothing to be worried about. Likely to be other parties on it.
Sandbagger!
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dirtme
Apr 10, 2007, 6:13 AM
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Braille Book is a 5.8. It's also not a very easy 5.8. I think it's because of the hike. It poops you out.
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elepita
Apr 10, 2007, 10:37 AM
Post #13 of 30
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I don't know if anybody said already but Bishop's Terrace in the Church Bowl area is very good. It is a 5.8 and it protects well.
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dreday3000
Apr 10, 2007, 4:51 PM
Post #14 of 30
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Good thread, I'm also making out to Yosemite for the first time in May.
So what is the best way to fly in? Which airport? Can you make it without renting a car? Any help would be appreciated.
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jgailor
Apr 10, 2007, 4:59 PM
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Airport:
If you want cheap, try Oakland or San Jose. If you are uber-rich, you can probably charter a plane into the little airport right outside the valley. Oakland or San Jose require 3:30 - 4:00 hours of driving however, which leads us to:
Car/No Car:
There may be a bus you can take from one of those areas to get you close-ish to the valley, and it's pretty common to hitch in the rest of the way. Renting a car is also a possibility, and will probably save you a lot of misery. The other option is you can find someone who lives in the bay area who's going to Yosemite around the time you're arriving, and get a ride with them. You'll still have to find a way back though.
Someone else may have a better airport recommendation, but remember, Yosemite is pretty much in the middle of nowhere with regards to civilization. It's part of the charm.
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marc801
Apr 10, 2007, 5:20 PM
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jgailor wrote: Airport: If you want cheap, try Oakland or San Jose. If you are uber-rich, you can probably charter a plane into the little airport right outside the valley. Oakland or San Jose require 3:30 - 4:00 hours of driving however,
Fresno - but you'd probably wind up connecting through SFO or LAX
Reno - about the same drive as from the Bay area but with better scenery. Tioga Pass must be open for this to be a viable option.
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dreday3000
Apr 10, 2007, 5:21 PM
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Defiently not rich so I won't be chartering any planes.
Think I'll start a seperate thread to see if anyone has info on grabbing a bus.
Thanks for the beta
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caughtinside
Apr 10, 2007, 5:26 PM
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you valley first timers should think about getting the Supertopo guidebook Yosemite Free Climbs. The focus is on stuff 5.8-.10, and it also has the beta you need on camping and transportation.
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mike_ok
Apr 10, 2007, 5:30 PM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2003
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You can catch an Amtrak bus in Merced daily to Yos Valley. If you need to get to Merced, there is a daily train from Bakersfield. If you need to get to Bakersfield, there is a daily bus from Union Station (downtown LA). All told, from LA to Yos Valley its $45.
If you juggle between Amtrak and Greyhound you can get to Yos from just about anywhere in the US. I traveled from Yos to OKC by bus... I don't recommend it though ;-)
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jgailor
Apr 10, 2007, 5:32 PM
Post #20 of 30
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caughtinside wrote: you valley first timers should think about getting the Supertopo guidebook Yosemite Free Climbs. The focus is on stuff 5.8-.10, and it also has the beta you need on camping and transportation.
From your lips to Gods ears. This is great advice. The book will provide the information you need to get into the valley, get comfortable, and start climbing without killing yourself.
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nb_boarder16
Apr 19, 2007, 2:45 AM
Post #21 of 30
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supertopo.com.............the end
check out their top hits list
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caughtinside
Apr 19, 2007, 5:32 PM
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you know,
Don't take this the wrong way, but I just read on another thread how you just led your first 5.9 trad climb, and hung on every piece.
Such being the case, Yosemite probably isn't the best place for you to go climb right now. I don't want to discourage you, but there isn't really a lot of different climbs that you could do there, unless you bring a rope gun.
If you do go, I am sure that you'd have a great time, it's yosemite! But if the focus is climbing, you'd probably get more mileage in going somewhere where there are more easy to moderate climbs.
something to consider...
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mandrake
Apr 19, 2007, 6:06 PM
Post #23 of 30
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About ten years ago, first Valley trip and I was just breaking into 5.8 trad. We had a great time on After 6, after 7, nutcracker etc, but I remember looking around and saying "we're the worst climbers in this entire valley!"
While there is stuff for someone comfortable at 5.8 and below to do, it's only X number of specific routes, mostly listed above. Totally agree on the rec to get the Supertopo free climbs.
If you want to explore other options, and depending on temps, Red Rocks has more choice in moderate multi-pitch. If a little later in the spring/early summer consider Lovers Leap. Whatever you end up doing, have a great trip!
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jgailor
Apr 19, 2007, 6:29 PM
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There's enough to do in the valley even if you're on the low end of the climbing spectrum. There's some top-roped routes, some bolted routes, and a fair amount of low-level trad to cut your teeth on. When you get bored with that then start pushing yourself a little bit harder until you psych- or pump- out. That's your new level.
You can also hitch up to Tuolumne for some climbing. Between the two you'll have plenty of pieces in your range.
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azrockclimber
Apr 19, 2007, 6:41 PM
Post #25 of 30
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summerprophet wrote: Another one that is worth doing. Braile Book 5.7 (I think) An Hour hike into the cathedrals to take you up a lovely corner system. The offwidth is nothing to be worried about. Likely to be other parties on it.
Braille book...listed as 5.8 now... and unless you have some wide crack under your belt...it'll feel like 5.10....... but it is a great route. By the sounds of what you are asking for I would not recommend it for this trip.
Also, to the above quoted poster....Don't send a leader who is asking for 5.6-5.8 off on a route that could be very hard if his offwidth skills are not up to par. And if you do, give a cautionary word at least. I was leading 5.10d trad in the valley on striaght forward hand and finger cracks when I first did braille book. I got on this looking for a cake walk. The offwidth felt like solid 5.10 becuase I had not yet developed the wide crack skills needed to make it feel like 5.8.
and yes I know it used to be 5.6 back in the day....
my 2 cents
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