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dynoingfool
Apr 10, 2007, 5:08 PM
Post #26 of 28
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Registered: Jun 1, 2006
Posts: 41
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consider this:
you might already possess "sick crimp strength" and just not be willing to go for it. if you fall off a crimp, is it cause your fingers literally peeled open and you fell, or did you kinda let go once it started hurting a lot? i used to think i was just not cut out for climbing and pretty much resigned myself to 10c for life, then said "well, why not" and just tried the thumb rap, and hung on for dear life. try climbing on a really cold day for the same effect: fingers may FEEL numb/dead but still have 20 feet left in em. for actual training i say: climb. climb climb climb climb CLIMB! and using the open hand grip will develop strength for all grip types, whereas training crimps develops crimp strength only, and less of it im told. above all dont injure yourself training.
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sidepull
Apr 10, 2007, 11:44 PM
Post #27 of 28
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
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 i
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Honestly, this thread should have ended after JTO's first response.
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wsclimber
Apr 19, 2007, 11:38 PM
Post #28 of 28
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Registered: May 24, 2004
Posts: 53
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4 components to climbing harder. The better you are at each the harder you climb.
1) crimp strength - the ability to not let the fingers uncurl on the hold (train on campus board)
2) core strength - the ability to keep your weight close to the rock and thus more over your feet.
3) pull down - the ability to pull a hold to your belt line.
4) foot work - the ability to find the next foot holds before looking for the next handholds...
#3 has not been mentioned yet. Its great to be able to campus up a set of rungs, but on 5.13 the holds just aren't that close, so you need to pull em down low. So train on bigger holds, with long deliberate reaches.
I guess a #5 would be Stay Skinny!
Keep us posted on progress.
(This post was edited by wsclimber on Apr 19, 2007, 11:39 PM)
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