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scrapedape


Apr 15, 2007, 3:21 PM
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Squamish Sucks  (North_America: Canada: British_Columbia: Squamish)
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Yeah, yeah, I know the locals are going to get their panties in a bunch about this, but here's the truth: there are just no routes there in the easy to moderate range that offer the kind of wild exposure that I crave. And that is sad indeed!


(This post was edited by scrapedape on Apr 16, 2007, 12:56 PM)


thabadcharacter


Apr 15, 2007, 3:43 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish - Easier Grades with good exposure? [In reply to]
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calculus crack 5.8. st. vitus' dance 5.9.


willthethrill


Apr 15, 2007, 5:04 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish - Easier Grades with good exposure? [In reply to]
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Crap Crag 5.7Sly dirty, nasty awsome climb.


imcd


Apr 15, 2007, 5:23 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish - Easier Grades with good exposure? [In reply to]
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try slot machine 5.9 2 pitches, good crack climbing. cream of whit mice is a fun as well.


clintcummins


Apr 16, 2007, 1:53 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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Not every place will deliver exposed moderates like your nearby Seneca Rocks or the Gunks. I guess nearly all areas suck if that is the criteria.


stevej


Apr 16, 2007, 2:04 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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I hate to say it, but scrapdape is right. Squamish does suck. The climate is not really good, and I don't know any well-travelled climbers (locals or otherwise) who consider squamish their favorite area.
On a more positive note, if you want an exposed moderate, go to the backside of the chief. There's Sunblessed, a very nice 5.10 type route of 4 pitches or so. Its easy climbing all the way to the last pitch and offers plenty of exposure.


alpinismo_flujo


Apr 16, 2007, 2:12 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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Why does a place "suck" if your skills are not up to par with it?


smithrockfreek


Apr 16, 2007, 2:17 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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Your all Easy to Moderate pussy's, all you want is somthing do-able where you can Hike up a hill for 5 pitches, skip all the real quality pitches and cheat past it to sonter up a 5.6 trad climb for exposer, so you can be able to go to the bar that night, brag to all your friends that your a multi pitch trad climber.
Squamish isn't the gunks!
or go bouldering if your that lazy, dont bring your hate to squamish.


adklimber


Apr 16, 2007, 2:23 PM
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Re: [alpinismo_flujo] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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alpinismo_flujo wrote:
Why does a place "suck" if your skills are not up to par with it?

Exactly!

Frown


ihategrigris


Apr 16, 2007, 2:25 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
Yeah, yeah, I know the locals are going to get their panties in a bunch about this, but here's the truth: there are just no routes there in the easy to moderate range that offer the kind of wild exposure that I crave. And that is sad indeed!

Upper malamute is also pretty good for exposure. I like squamish a lot, but I dislike the crowds there... so please don't come if you think it sucks.


motomagik


Apr 16, 2007, 2:35 PM
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Re: [alpinismo_flujo] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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alpinismo_flujo wrote:
Why does a place "suck" if your skills are not up to par with it?

Well done. And besides the claim is just plain wrong. Try Rock On, Sunblessed, Calculus Crack, St Vitus.

Squamish is amazing. I've climbed a decent number of places and Squamish is without a doubt my favorite. But if you don't like beautiful granite cracks, then by all means, don't come back and spray to anyone who will listen about how awful it is. More for me! Cool


brentristing


Apr 16, 2007, 2:46 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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I'd say there is plenty of good climbing to be found in squamish, the only problem is how wet it is there. I've lived in Abbotsford for almost a year and have only been able to climb at squish a couple of times due to the massive amount of rain here. during the summer however it is an awesome place with all kinds of climbing.
breNt


kman


Apr 16, 2007, 2:54 PM
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Re: [ihategrigris] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I like squamish a lot, but I dislike the crowds there

There's alot more to Squamish than the Smoke Bluffs and the Apron, so go to areas that are less busy Crazy


thomasribiere


Apr 16, 2007, 3:06 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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OK. I don't know Squamish. And I'm not a trad climber either. But what do YOU mean by easy or moderate range? And what do YOU mean by exposure?
Do you seriously realise the inanity of your post?


tradrenn


Apr 16, 2007, 3:24 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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So....which 5.5 did you get your ass spanked by ?
Wink


miavzero


Apr 16, 2007, 3:44 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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You forgot to mention that it rains all the time.Tongue


nooyoozer


Apr 16, 2007, 4:03 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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you're complaining that the multi-million year-old rock at an area doesn't have climbs that you enjoy??? am i understanding this correctly? go somewhere else... that's almost like a sport climber saying that The Creek sucks because there are too many cracks - maybe not quite but come on, swallow your pride, try harder routes, and take some falls. it opens the doors.


scrapedape


Apr 16, 2007, 5:10 PM
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Re: [nooyoozer] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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Haha! Just as I predicted. A lot of handwringing and the predictable "shut up if you're not up to it."

But not a lot of examples of sub-5.10 routes with fun exposure.

Prove me wrong.


yetanotherdave


Apr 16, 2007, 6:00 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
Prove me wrong.
Can't do it. You can't compare slab route exposure to (for example) stuff in red rocks or tahoe. Sounds to me like you're looking for Corrugation Corner type exposure - 5.7 traverse over a huge roof. Nothing like that in squish until at least hard 5.10. North Apron routes aren't even close.

Some stuff on the Squaw is airy at low 10, but other places have way more exposure at way less effort.


akicebum


Apr 16, 2007, 6:26 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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Try Leavenworth, great longer gentle routes. It's not valley, but at least there aren't crowds, and there are several easier trad crags for you to beef up on.

Whats with the bitching? Squamish doesn't suck. Next time you make a trip go to a store and go through a few guide books and find a place that suits your style and ability, don't go to mecca and complain that you are unprepared.

Oh and too whatever jackass asked which famous climbers call Squamish their fav I don't know maybe Russ Clune, Peter Croft, oh and what's that dudes name....Sonnie Trotter. Pull your heads out of your asses. Go climbing and quit worrying about who climbs where. remember 5.11 is 5.9 A2. Peace


ihategrigris


Apr 16, 2007, 6:36 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
Haha! Just as I predicted. A lot of handwringing and the predictable "shut up if you're not up to it."

But not a lot of examples of sub-5.10 routes with fun exposure.

Prove me wrong.

Do anything on the upper malamute, theres a couple 5.8s and couple of 5.9 and tons of good 5.10s. All have wonderful exposure right over the water (you have to rap in to the climbs!) High Mountain Woody (5.8+) is particularly good.


scrapedape


Apr 17, 2007, 11:44 AM
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Re: [ihategrigris] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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All right, thanks for the responses!
I'll level with you all. I originally started this thread with the title "Squamish - Easy climbs with good exposure" and basically asked a straightforward question.

No one batted an eye. It got a couple of replies, but then nothing.

So after a day I figured maybe I had to spice things up to elicit some more responses... seems it worked.

Though I now see that maybe there really aren't too many easy, exposed routes.

Thanks for the suggestions that were offered though, and we'll try to hit them up when we're out there next week.

And I'll reserve judgement on whether Squamish really sucks until after I get back.


ihategrigris


Apr 17, 2007, 12:05 PM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
All right, thanks for the responses!
I'll level with you all. I originally started this thread with the title "Squamish - Easy climbs with good exposure" and basically asked a straightforward question.

No one batted an eye. It got a couple of replies, but then nothing.

So after a day I figured maybe I had to spice things up to elicit some more responses... seems it worked.

Though I now see that maybe there really aren't too many easy, exposed routes.

Thanks for the suggestions that were offered though, and we'll try to hit them up when we're out there next week.

And I'll reserve judgement on whether Squamish really sucks until after I get back.

Hahaha.... yeah, you sure got everyone riled up :D. Truth is there's a lot of exposed stuff if you know where to look... the bullet heads, routes on the lower grand wall (eg. Merci Me), the Solarium.... but really, places like red rocks have much better exposure for sure.

I think you'll find that the quality of the rock, the fact that your climbing in a rain forest and the esthetic of Squamish crack climbing will keep you coming back once you come :).


maracas


Apr 18, 2007, 12:59 AM
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Re: [ihategrigris] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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You have to rephrase it to the weather in squamish really sucks.

And they will say they have a great summer (of 2 months), but then it will rain on and off (more on than off) for 10 months.

The rock is solid, the walls are nice, but the weather...


Partner alexmac


Apr 18, 2007, 5:45 AM
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Re: [scrapedape] Squamish Sucks [In reply to]
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scrapedape wrote:
Yeah, yeah, I know the locals are going to get their panties in a bunch about this, but here's the truth: there are just no routes there in the easy to moderate range that offer the kind of wild exposure that I crave. And that is sad indeed!

Wow, why not ask for limestone at a granite site, easy and wild exposure, try a bar .


(This post was edited by alexmac on Apr 18, 2007, 5:46 AM)

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