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dalfollo
Apr 7, 2007, 8:12 PM
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Like other noobs going through the 'gear acquisition' phase, I am always interested in finding regular things that can be used for Aid/Big Wall work....for example:
- Harbor Freight Tools has some large (6") carabiners of Aluminum that are not for climbing, but can help with organizing gear, and other tasks (they get the red tape indicating not for climbing)
- They also have decent cold chisels for a third of the price one might find them at HD or Lowes
- Making a 4" BW poop tube from PVC with the appropriate ends..pretty straight-forward
- Making your own funkness device from wire rope and swages at the hardware store
- Using a sewing machine to make my own bolt bag or even stuff sacs
- GriGri made from a hickory axe handle and an old rake (just kidding)
- 2 or 3 liter plastic Gatorade bottles have a very bomber handle built into the neck.
I am not making my own screamers or sewing a harness....but am looking for suggestions on home made gear, or non-BW/Aid gear that can be easily retasked to BW/Aid.
Appreciate any feedback or suggestions!
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usacpnw
Apr 7, 2007, 8:57 PM
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Are you hoping for a different responce then you other post got?
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knieveltech
Apr 7, 2007, 10:50 PM
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dalfollo wrote: Like other noobs going through the 'gear acquisition' phase, I am always interested in finding regular things that can be used for Aid/Big Wall work....for example: - Harbor Freight Tools has some large (6") carabiners of Aluminum that are not for climbing, but can help with organizing gear, and other tasks (they get the red tape indicating not for climbing) - They also have decent cold chisels for a third of the price one might find them at HD or Lowes - Making a 4" BW poop tube from PVC with the appropriate ends..pretty straight-forward - Making your own funkness device from wire rope and swages at the hardware store - Using a sewing machine to make my own bolt bag or even stuff sacs - GriGri made from a hickory axe handle and an old rake (just kidding) - 2 or 3 liter plastic Gatorade bottles have a very bomber handle built into the neck. I am not making my own screamers or sewing a harness....but am looking for suggestions on home made gear, or non-BW/Aid gear that can be easily retasked to BW/Aid. Appreciate any feedback or suggestions!
Cheap tools are a timebomb waiting to go off. I know a guy who decided cheap hand tools where the way to go, he bought some off-brand hammers. a week later he ended up losing his left eye to shrapnel when the head of one of these POS's detonated while he was beating on something. Do yourself a favor, buy tools that are worth having.
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tallnik
Apr 8, 2007, 8:41 PM
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I've been using big OJ jugs, holding up just fine. Big ass handle, decent lid.
Nik
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dalfollo
Apr 9, 2007, 2:25 PM
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"Are you hoping for a different responce then you other post got? "
Yes, actually....looking for Aid specific homemade gear.
(This post was edited by dalfollo on Apr 9, 2007, 2:26 PM)
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roshiaitareya
Apr 9, 2007, 2:43 PM
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dalfollo wrote: - Making a 4" BW poop tube from PVC with the appropriate ends..pretty straight-forward - 2 or 3 liter plastic Gatorade bottles have a very bomber handle built into the neck.
Those 2 sound good, otherwise, I'd have to agree. Anything you don't want to crap out on you (no pun intended) within a climb or two, get the high quality more expensive stuff.
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dalfollo
Apr 9, 2007, 2:47 PM
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In reply to: Cheap tools are a timebomb waiting to go off. I know a guy who decided cheap hand tools where the way to go, he bought some off-brand hammers. a week later he ended up losing his left eye to shrapnel when the head of one of these POS's detonated while he was beating on something. Do yourself a favor, buy tools that are worth having.
I am sorry about your friend, but part of deciding to use either homemade gear or retasked gear would have to include the risk assessment and understanding the consequences of equipment failure. As well as using the equipment safely.
As I had indicated above there are limits to what I would use; but let's be realistic....Chouinard, Yates, etc ALL started as homemade gear at some point.
Does everyone buy their funkness/Pin-Head devices from Yates?
(This post was edited by dalfollo on Apr 9, 2007, 2:48 PM)
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fenderfour
Apr 9, 2007, 2:55 PM
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I've made some gear for climbing. Look in this forum and you will see a post on making Russian Aiders. I've also made belay seats, stuff sacks, etc. I'm thinking about making a ledge just for grins.
I'm currently working on an alpine pack. My next project will be a couple of smaller haulbags.
Do I trust my gear? absolutely. I bought a heavy duty sewing machine and I tend to oversew all of my seams.
Speaking of ledges - look up "Krutyledge" in the articles section. There's a neat write up on making a pvc ledge.
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tomtom
Apr 10, 2007, 3:58 AM
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There is plenty of gear you can make or get cheap:
Aiders tied from webbing
Daisys tied from webbing
Harness: Swami belt and leg loops
Prussiks as ascenders
Tied runners
Duffle bags as haul bags.
etc.
Don't make it too complicated.
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wanderlustmd
Apr 10, 2007, 4:06 PM
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fenderfour wrote: I've made some gear for climbing. Look in this forum and you will see a post on making Russian Aiders. I've also made belay seats, stuff sacks, etc. I'm thinking about making a ledge just for grins. I'm currently working on an alpine pack. My next project will be a couple of smaller haulbags. Do I trust my gear? absolutely. I bought a heavy duty sewing machine and I tend to oversew all of my seams. Speaking of ledges - look up "Krutyledge" in the articles section. There's a neat write up on making a pvc ledge.
I think it's Krustyledge. hah, i hadn't thought about that in a while.
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fenderfour
Apr 10, 2007, 5:05 PM
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Damn typos... thanks
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frodolf
Apr 12, 2007, 9:56 AM
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I've been thinking about making my own adjustable daisys. The reason is that I'd like to have a daisy that's like metolius' or petzl's quickfix in handling, yet full strength. petzl quickfix is the only one I've really tryed, and that sucker is only rated for 150 dan!
So. I'm thinking of butchering my old petzl harness to get my hands on the big dubbelback buckles. The quickfix got a mini-version of them, and they work really sweet. Then TYING the girth hitch loop (the attachment point to the harness), and TYING the little loop holding the buckle. And everything made from full strength flat webbing. Not a single seam (except mayby a few to keep the buckles in place). In my mind, this would kick #ss!
What do you think about my idea? Any experience on home made adjustables?
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lambone
Apr 12, 2007, 7:59 PM
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a belay seat is pretty straightforward to make.
cheater stick...
rope bags
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domu888
Apr 13, 2007, 1:27 AM
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I know one guy who makes all his own stuff from biners to ice axes. He also teaches engineering and metal-work at a university college that has the forges to go with it. I suggest befriending someone similar or going back to college.
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lambone
Apr 13, 2007, 6:52 AM
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my buddy that I did my last wall with made his own ledge and fly (nice too). he said with the time and materials he spent doing it twice to get it right he should have just bought a used one on ebay. pbut it was pretty cool anyway.
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skinner
Apr 13, 2007, 9:20 PM
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I am always amazed at how people will be so quick to mob-lynch anyone who dares to even consider making some of their own gear. Aid climbers aren't nearly as bad though, probably because being innovative is a huge part of being a good aid climber, that.. and they're just used to making or repairing things of the fly.
What many people seem to forget, is that the majority of gear available today started out as "homemade". Sure the precisely engineered and C&C'd cams are far superior to the stove legs that Harding pounded in, but it was this "stove leg" type ingenuity that spurred on the Chouinards, Frost, and, Pecks, to design the gear which has evolved into what we have today.
So go for it, although I am not sure that Gatorade bottles are a huge breakthrough concept in water storage or transport 
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vashie
Apr 16, 2007, 8:27 PM
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I thought I was going to get "mob-lynch" for having tied runners on my rack! I make all kinds of gear; small haul bag, belay seat, bolt bags, extra burly bigwall pants! I love making gear at home. I am currently in the analyticall stages toward making my own aluminum double Krustyledge and offset stoppers!
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dr_feelgood
Apr 16, 2007, 9:08 PM
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Plasti-Dip is your friend...
Plasti-dip over the knees of your pants for increased abraision protection.
Repair haul bags and plastidip the patches....
whatever needs sealing...
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texplorer
May 4, 2007, 3:17 AM
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I admire your inventive spirit. The only thing I would caution on would be the "not for climbing" biners. On a wall your gonna get everything mixed up and the last thing you want is that crap.
I had a friend make his own ledge. It took awhile but he did a great job. He pretty much reverse engineered an old BD ledge and then made it bigger to fit him (he's like 6'3"). It ended up being heavier but burlier than the original.
Overall I would say you can get by with some homeade things like a double sling harness, belay chair, or even haul bag but your still going to need alot of gear unless your a master in the machine shop.
Anyway, just get to the valley and you'll find a partner or someone willing to loan you some gear to climb your dream climb.
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trisgo
Aug 31, 2007, 1:39 AM
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Cool, so I'm not the only one. One easy project is making a haul bucket for stuff that can break (cameras stuff like that). Drill 4 holes at the top and on the sides and throw on 2 pieces of cord, tie off the inside pieces with a washer between the bucket and knot. Spray paint it and slap some stickers on that bad boy. I wish i had a pic, i ended up putting backpack straps on mine.
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majid_sabet
Aug 31, 2007, 2:27 AM
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you seen my homemade big wall aid jacket ?
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phile
Sep 29, 2007, 4:43 AM
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dr_feelgood wrote: Plasti-Dip is your friend... Plasti-dip over the knees of your pants for increased abraision protection. Repair haul bags and plastidip the patches.... whatever needs sealing...
I made some aiders out of 9/16 web, and inserted strips from a plastic storage container lid into the inside of the webbing to help hold the loops open. Still not as stiff as would be ideal. I'd been wondering about plasti-dip--does it adhere well to flexible stuff? would it really work on pant knees?
p
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skiclimb
Sep 29, 2007, 6:48 AM
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did the shield with a $10 hammok from wallmart tied at corners beneath my buddies single ledge.. worked fine.
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stymingersfink
Oct 3, 2007, 3:31 AM
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skiclimb wrote: did the shield with a $10 hammok from wallmart tied at corners beneath my buddies single ledge.. worked fine.
first thing you'll learn is why porta-ledges were invented.
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