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summerprophet
Apr 19, 2007, 7:16 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Jan 17, 2004
Posts: 764
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azrockclimber wrote: summerprophet wrote: Another one that is worth doing. Braile Book 5.7 (I think) An Hour hike into the cathedrals to take you up a lovely corner system. The offwidth is nothing to be worried about. Likely to be other parties on it. Braille book...listed as 5.8 now... and unless you have some wide crack under your belt...it'll feel like 5.10....... but it is a great route. By the sounds of what you are asking for I would not recommend it for this trip. Also, to the above quoted poster....Don't send a leader who is asking for 5.6-5.8 off on a route that could be very hard if his offwidth skills are not up to par. And if you do, give a cautionary word at least. I was leading 5.10d trad in the valley on striaght forward hand and finger cracks when I first did braille book. I got on this looking for a cake walk. The offwidth felt like solid 5.10 becuase I had not yet developed the wide crack skills needed to make it feel like 5.8. and yes I know it used to be 5.6 back in the day.... my 2 cents Hey Az, I remember the offwidth being pretty casual.... as in no offwidth technique required. I think I remember stemming and using a lot of the face holds to the right. That being said, it was a while ago, and the memory does fade, if I am wrong on this, I apologize to the OP, I have no intentions of sandbagging someone on their fledgling trip.
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wish
Apr 24, 2007, 4:16 AM
Post #28 of 30
(1805 views)
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Registered: Mar 18, 2007
Posts: 3
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After reading all this I have to agree with caughtinside. If you are going on a trip where you main goal is to climb a lot and get swollen fingers then you might want to go somewhere with more routes in your range. I have been to the valley many times and seen climbers that have gotten in over their heads. Forget how hard you can lead else where, but do you feel confident in making anchors? Do you think you could get yourself out of any situation? The manure pile is a fun place, but I have seen people get really screwed there because they are in over their head. However, if you are going to the valley because... it's the valley and every climber goes there.... and you like the idea of hanging in the meadow for hours on end or talking up your game in camp 4..... then have a blast. Just stay humble and be smart, don't be one of those stories.
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karlbaba
Apr 27, 2007, 2:10 AM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159
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marc801 wrote: rhyang wrote: After Six is more like 5.7 (apparently it became harder after some rockfall), and After Seven is 5.8,... Hence their names! These used to be part of my solo circuit and have indeed become harder over the years. I think after 7 got polished and holds may have broken, and there was a tree growing out of After Six that's gone now and it's a tricky stem there. And yes, Braille Book is dang hard for 5.8 Peace karl
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tradrenn
May 1, 2007, 2:05 AM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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Thanks for making this thread, very useful.
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