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What is The Best 5.10 Jug Hall in America
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ticklistjunkie


Apr 29, 2007, 12:37 PM
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What is The Best 5.10 Jug Hall in America
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What is the best 5.10 overhanging jug hall in America?


rhythm164


Apr 29, 2007, 2:25 PM
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The Nose, it's somewhere in California, can't remember where...


roadstead


Apr 29, 2007, 2:45 PM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=63902


theguy


Apr 29, 2007, 3:47 PM
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Don't have much experience, but Whipstocking(http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=15346) rocks and is just over 5.10


jakedatc


Apr 29, 2007, 11:44 PM
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Peer Pressure 10d First sport route at Rumney.. freaking classic

most of the route(Underdog) isnt a jug haul per say but this is one of the coolest jugs at rumney



(This post was edited by jakedatc on Apr 29, 2007, 11:51 PM)


tradmanclimbs


Apr 30, 2007, 12:03 AM
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Re: [jakedatc] What is The Best 5.10 Jug Hall in America [In reply to]
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Best 5.10 jug haul @ rumny Is Armed and Dangerous. Underdog is pretty darn good too. Wiamea is pretty juggy too.....


unrooted


Apr 30, 2007, 12:54 AM
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Check out American Fork, utah.


stevej


Apr 30, 2007, 1:02 AM
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Aren't all 5.10's basically jug hauls?
Seriously tho, the best and most fun 5.10 jug haul I have ever done is at the Pit in Arizona. It is called "Mr. Slate" rated 5.10b.


Partner phylp


Apr 30, 2007, 1:10 AM
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There is a 140' 16 bolt route called Redtail in City of Rocks Idaho that is great. One move of 11.a down low but then the rest is beautiful juggy 5.10.

In the Owen's River Gorge, Blood Sugar Sex Magik is 10.d*****, and I recall it being mostly juggy. 16 bolts/130'

At the Dike Wall in Mammoth, there's a juggy route called Cromagnon 10.a*****. So much fun!

All of the above slightly overhanging.


jakedatc


Apr 30, 2007, 5:00 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
Best 5.10 jug haul @ rumny Is Armed and Dangerous. Underdog is pretty darn good too. Wiamea is pretty juggy too.....

armed and dangerous is in my top 5 there but not my favorite.. though i'm glad mark extended the top to add more jug pulling.

i don't consider waimea a jug haul for a 10.. i consider jugs like sinker "OMG" holds .. super positive yes. jugs.. nah

Masterpieces is up there.. 10a steep fest.. i'd say centerpiece too but that shut me down in a year of anti-endurance so i'm bitter

Juan Valdez is like 5.8 jugs if you can crack the starting boulder problem


curt


Apr 30, 2007, 5:35 AM
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stevej wrote:
Aren't all 5.10's basically jug hauls?
Seriously tho, the best and most fun 5.10 jug haul I have ever done is at the Pit in Arizona. It is called "Mr. Slate" rated 5.10b.

I don't even like sport climbing all that much--but, Mr. Slate is an outstanding climb for the grade.

Curt


colemanizzle


May 1, 2007, 1:53 AM
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It is a bit far away from you, but most people in So Ill seem to like Group Therapy. It's like a 10c, but I can't quite remember. Its in Jackson Falls, Illinois. About 6(?) bolts and around 60 feet tall.


eric_k


May 8, 2007, 7:39 PM
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I have climber group Therapy and it has super positive holds, it overhangs qutie a bit too. 5.10c


Partner j_ung


May 8, 2007, 8:04 PM
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Re: [ticklistjunkie] What is The Best 5.10 Jug Hall in America [In reply to]
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Jug "hall"? LaughLaugh

If you climb trad, try Built to Tilt at Shortoff Mtn in NC. I'm sure the Gunks has a few also. Anything at the Red?


(This post was edited by j_ung on May 8, 2007, 8:06 PM)


joshy8200


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Re: [eric_k] What is The Best 5.10 Jug Hall in America [In reply to]
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Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion.

Routes that would be my contenders: "Built to Tilt" 5.10a Shortoff Mtn, Linville Gorge, NC

The poster route of Linville Gorge: "Lost in Space" 5.10b Hawksbill, NC

"Welcome to Watagua" Ship Rock, NC 5.10d

"Bimbo's Bulge" Moore's Wall, NC 5.10d

Now those are some jug hauling, kick ass routes.


(This post was edited by joshy8200 on May 9, 2007, 2:19 AM)


Partner j_ung


May 8, 2007, 8:07 PM
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Wah-ha! Just beat you on Built to Tilt. Your list is excellent. Add Break On Through and I think we have a winner.


jakedatc


May 9, 2007, 11:54 PM
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joshy8200 wrote:
Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion.
.

stay out of the fuckin' sport climbing forum then Trad tard Crazy

or get out more and you'd see there are thousands of amazing sport lines.. or better yet.. don't so there is one more parking space in the lot

why why WHY must people who are so against sport climbing post their shit in the sport climbing forum.. this happened the same way with the quick draw thread a few weeks ago.. i mean FUCK just shut the hell up if you hate it so much.


tradmanclimbs


May 10, 2007, 12:33 AM
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I don't have a problem with putting jug hauling trad lines on the list. i just don't know any 5.10 trad lines in the NE that are Jug hauls. i was going to say thin Air but that is only a six:) I allmost want to say Prince of darkness in RR but that is more crimps than jugs. i still can't get over how much fun Armed, dangerous and off My medication isCool


rocknice2


May 10, 2007, 1:03 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
I just don't know any 5.10 trad lines in the NE that are Jug hauls.

Try... Spider's Web in Keene Valley Adirondacks, NY
On The Loose - 5.9+++

Big, overhanging hand+/- crack system that dominates the right end of the wall. Tape up and get moving - good secure jams if you can hang out long enough to find 'em. A contender for the world's hardest 5.9. (Rated 5.9+ and done by "Hot" Henry Barber in '77!!)


endercore


May 10, 2007, 4:47 AM
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breakfast burrito
drive by crag
rrg


joshy8200


May 10, 2007, 4:50 AM
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Re: [jakedatc] What is The Best 5.10 Jug Hall in America [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
joshy8200 wrote:
Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion.
.

stay out of the fuckin' sport climbing forum then Trad tard Crazy

or get out more and you'd see there are thousands of amazing sport lines.. or better yet.. don't so there is one more parking space in the lot

why why WHY must people who are so against sport climbing post their shit in the sport climbing forum.. this happened the same way with the quick draw thread a few weeks ago.. i mean FUCK just shut the hell up if you hate it so much.

What's wrong with you? Not enough sex? Too much sport climbing?

Jeez dude, I hate to burst your 5.10 sport climbing jug haul bubble. I didn't even notice the forum that this topic was listed in. Had I noticed that I wouldn't have posted anything negative about sport climbing.

Again, sorry I interrupted the sport climbing circle jerk.Crazy


jt512


May 10, 2007, 5:12 AM
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joshy8200 wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
joshy8200 wrote:
Um...considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion.
.

stay out of the fuckin' sport climbing forum then Trad tard Crazy

or get out more and you'd see there are thousands of amazing sport lines.. or better yet.. don't so there is one more parking space in the lot

why why WHY must people who are so against sport climbing post their shit in the sport climbing forum.. this happened the same way with the quick draw thread a few weeks ago.. i mean FUCK just shut the hell up if you hate it so much.

What's wrong with you? Not enough sex? Too much sport climbing?

Jeez dude, I hate to burst your 5.10 sport climbing jug haul bubble. I didn't even notice the forum that this topic was listed in. Had I noticed that I wouldn't have posted anything negative about sport climbing.

Again, sorry I interrupted the sport climbing circle jerk.Crazy

When we want the opinion of another 5.8 trad poser we'll give it to you.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on May 10, 2007, 8:13 PM)


superbum


May 10, 2007, 5:43 AM
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out of what I've climbed...

Mr Slate, The Pit, Flagstaff, AZ

Hardly Wallbanger, Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA

Tribal Boundaries, City of Rocks, Almo, ID


tradmanclimbs


May 10, 2007, 11:54 AM
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Re: [superbum] What is The Best 5.10 Jug Hall in America [In reply to]
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Rock and ice, You just described a JAM Crack Not a Jug Haul....


zakadamsgt


May 10, 2007, 12:40 PM
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Hmmmm for me I really enjoyed Spawn at South Clear Creek OBED River Gorge, TN. It's a 110' haul, all jugs, super classic 10 bolts, with a great view from the top of the gorge Wink

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